Lawsy

Well, next time you do an oil change, try this. Change your oil while its hot (try not to burn yourself though) and let it drain for a good half hour to an hour. Get yourself some Nulon 10w-40, or some royal purple 10w-40, and give it a go. They are both fantastic oils and you just might find you get more economy, and a bit more top end. Keep a small amount of the 10w-60 in a sealed glass jar, and after say, 10 thousand km's, dump the 10w-40 and take a look. See if one or the other is cloudy, shine a 5000k Xenon light through both (5000k HID's have more lumens in the the colour spectrum that reflects the best off metal) and check for any little flecks of metal in each. You may find something, you may find nothing. You might end up looking at two jars of gold fluid thinking 'wtf?'. So be it, but give it a go anyways. See how you go dude.

Ok so here is what I'm trying to get at. Firstly, take a look at this table here (its the SAE standard's table, published basically everywhere in technical articles relating to oil viscosity. Now, make a mental note of some of those numbers, some of them may not mean a whole lot in practical terms, but they are all very important. Ok the first column represents the highest viscosity value a tested oil may have to fit into a particular grade/category. This means that in order to obtain a rating as 0w, the cranking viscosity must be below 6200 @ -35°C. The temperatures are vitally important when reading these values. Take a look at the low shear max values for the 0w and the 5w oils (4th column), its the same (3.. The viscosity value for these two grades of oil almost converge and make a similar path if plotted on a temp/viscosity diagram. They are most different at the lower extreme temperatures, least different from about 40 onwards. In the real world, from around 0°C-20°C, they are similar enough in viscosity performance that it is negligible. The true pour point of a 0w oil is much lower than a 5w oil though, sometimes by as much as 15 degrees! That is why it exists, though. Note, these values are not the be all and end all values for grading an oil, these are only some of the requirements that an oil must meet in order to be classified by the standard. I can't find the others (wish I could though, as there is more to the story). Now take a look at the values for the grades not suffixed by W, these values represent your running temperature viscosity and therefore your running temp performance. See how the 60 grade starts at 21.9 and ends at 26.1 (measured in centistokes)? Its safe to assume that oils like HPR15, Edge 10w-60 are very close to the 21.9 value. Which makes perfect sense, as these oils are designed for modern engines, they wouldn't want to be near the 26.1, as this would well and truly be too viscous, and practical examination of an engines performance agree's (go run a cheap xxw-60 vs the edge 10w-60 or HPR15 and you'll see why). BUT, I still would not recommend anyone here run a 60 grade oil in a post BA Ford I6 motor that isn't a track day special, where the 60 would actually thin down, due to the significantly higher heat involved, to a viscosity of an average 50 grade anyway, providing an increased film strength for such a high level of engine loading. Ok so, take a quick look at the last column, see how there is two entries for 40 grade oils? This is because there is a jump in the amount of viscosity indexing required to prevent a 10w oil from thinning beyond the 40 grade, than a 15w would... With fully synthetics though, this isn't a bad thing, since the oil is designed with its intended viscosity in mind, so the composition of the synthetic itself will have inherent viscosity indexing due to the way it was engineered. This means it can have a lower viscosity under high stress but maintain a high film strength at the same time. Today's oils are simply awesome in what they do. I have a lot of respect for the engineers who manage to calculate and formulate these oils, as they manage to provide awesome properties under so many different stresses and flow rates that we are bordering on lubricant perfection. If you run the correct viscosity for your engine, you can run the engine hard after 30 seconds without too much worry. Which is what I've been trying to get at all along. The numbers are there, the temperatures you feel in the mornings and the way you drive/how much power you have, are your guide. Use your head, consider all of the information you can, and you should be able to come out with an oil that will satisfy your situation. Though I don't really think its required, you can even run a winter and a summer grade oil. Run something thinner in winter, and slightly thicker in summer. But I don't really recommend you do this, as your engine is designed to maintain its core temperature within a fairly wide ambient temperature range. A range that covers 99.9% of Australia, 4 seasons a year. Ford may do some stupid things sometimes, but when it comes to these engines, they certainly have done their homework. So, full synthetic 10w-40 still wins out for the majority of you blokes running either standard or fairly modified motors. If you're in BCL's league though, ask Simon from Nizpro; I've given up trying to figure out what oil is needed in such an extreme case (it's a toss up between M1 5w-50, RP 10w-50 and Nulon 10w-40). Too many pro's for each oil, without enough con's to sway the balance. You decide.

What website did you get that off jbute? Some good information, it is a fairly brief summery (yep, the long version is a 200 page book) and a lot of the back story to why we use these numbers and such, though it would have been nice if the author provided what the viscosity actually is for each grade. I'll make a separate post for that though. I'm still intrigued by the apparent FPV recommendation for the edge 0w-40... I'd say its more likely one of the oils that are "on the list" rather than what they would recommend you use., since the motor simply does not require an oil designed for constant sub zero temperature starts; we just don't need it!! I don't know of anywhere in Australia that you would need, all winter, to start your car at with an oil temp of -35°C (which means ambient would be somewhere near -40°C for this to happen). Which is why a 5w or 10w would be the norm, as both would be more than thin enough at a normal cold starting temperature around this fine country. I guess something else needs to be explained here. If you have an oil temp of say, 40°C as your "cold start" (you may you live in the hottest part of the country), is that oil "warmed up?". The answer is yes, that oil is on its way. As soon as this motor has full oil circulation, it will be protected. Warming an oil up doesn't mean it has to be warmed by the engine, its properties change with temperature, regardless of where this heat source comes from. This means that those chains I was talking about earlier (the rope thing) are already starting stretch out! This is a good thing for all components involved, since the chains will already be preventing metal to metal contact from the word go. These chains are also part of the viscosity modifiers, they are the major part of the viscosity modifier package and protection formula. This very reason is also why I still think a 10w is the sweet spot for this motor. Since our average cold start temp would be sitting around 18°C (obviously this totally depends on where you live, but 20 seems to high for an average, and 15 seems to low, feel free to chuck your 2c in here, it would make it easy to get the right oil for you), so a 10w oil at 18°C is already acting like a 5w would at 0 to 10°C. Its already in the process of viscosity reduction.. Does that make a bit more sense? Please let me know, because there is just so much to oils, and I'm trying to put as much relevant information down as possible, as I think of it; the more I think and search on the topic, the better chance I've got at providing reliable information, and since I love the XR6T, I truly want to provide you blokes with the best I've got. I'll find the viscosity index numbers and put them in another post.

I didn't think they did. I just woke up, so this might not make much sense (today is my only day off, and I still have to go in to uni later on... How gay is that). Ok here are a few oils that the oil companies recommend. I haven't previously looked this up for the XR6 Turbo until now, so hopefully I'm not full of crap. Oh, the BA - BFsII was the same for each recommendation. Also note that I'd be more inclined to listen to the oil company, than to my local service rep, since the oil company is responsible for the warranty if something goes wrong, due to a direct problem cause by their recommendation (as it is in writing, not "simon says"--> Provable case). --------------------------------------------------------------------- Penrite 10w-50 - HPR10, its a semi synthetic, very high quality base stock, very high quality oil for a semi synthetic. If this was fully syth I'd put this oil up with the Purple/Nulon stuff. Castrol recommend Magnatec or GTX3 - that's a 10w-40 or a 15w-40. Valvoline recommend Problend, 15w-40 Mobil recommend, Mobil 1 0w-40 and 5w-50, SUPER 2000 X2 10W-40 or MOBIL FORMULA S2 10W-40 The Mobil recommendation is probably the most, and least helpful, all at the same time. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Its the least helpful in that, they do not make this recommendation as a guide to cross reference another brands lubricants. This is a recommendation for mobil 1 and mobil 1 only. Ok let me explain. Who is going to buy this sort of oil (at 60-81 dollars per 5L bottle, when you need two 5L bottles, or a 5L and two 1L bottles... Its near enough 100 bucks either way you look at it)? Only the most hardcore XR6 Turbo owner, why? Because they are meticulous with their startup procedure, and will not stuff it up. Thus, they can get away with it. BUT, like I said in my previous post (yet to be confirmed though) apparently the 5w in the mobile 1 range is very close to being a 10w anyways. I really really wish someone would make public the independant testing of this oil, but I'm yet to find it. If someone out there can leak it to me, it would be appreciated. Then, Mobil 1 is actually helpful though in that the products recommended for the masses is again a 10w-40. That should just about do it. So, where does this leave us? Its clear that the performance oil companies do infact take the time to actually think about what they recommend. Penrite, awesome oils, 10w-50. Fantastic recommendation. Evidense would suggest that the penrite oils are on the lower side of the index, ie, their 50 is only just above 40, their 60 is borderline 50, etc. Other brands with a 60 can make an engine almost "choke" on the oil, but the Penrite 60 doesn't. Need I say more? Mobil, slightly confusing for the masses, but translated this recommendation is saying that "If you're willing to spend this much cash on oil, then you surely must be paying attention to what you're doing with it, and won't flog it from a cold start. If you do, since our oil is at the higher end of the 5w range, you should be protected enough anyway". that's how I read it, and every other recommendation inadvertently agree's... So, with the jury back in, 10w-40 and if you run a lot of power or live in a hot climate, 10w or 15w-50 are still the safest, highest performing and most protecting oil viscosity ranges for an XR6 Turbo motor. I cannot, however, totally agree with the mobil 1 0w-40 recommendation. Its the most expensive oil in their range, and I just can't quite see that not having something to do with it. That, and the fact that a reputable engineer once said the XR6 turbo's-turbo can be starved with really thin oil on a cold start, makes me wonder if its a product range limitation. Ie, they don't want to be seen without a recommendion for a large market. Or if my message down the grapevine is correct; the 0w and 5w oils are pushing on 10w anyway. That seems fairly logical, wouldn't you agree?

Being stock though, you can run better, for less money, and get more protection. It is a recommended oil, yes, but its not the recommended oil if you know what I mean (hmmm I feel a John Laws pun somewhere in the nether). You can get better protection infact with a lighter oil, since the 60 will be thicker, putting more stress on the oil pump (being a younger engine, tolerences haven't increased, so the oil is simply building up pressure, waiting to get through), thus the oil pump will wear prematurely. A 60 oil is something you would run in say, the old 92 Astina, 352 thou km's and still going strong, hasn't been rebuilt. You don't need to run this sort of viscosity, unless you are running a lot of boost, where the thicker oil will help the rings to seal, amoung all the other good crap it will do for such a boost level. Due to the added heat being produced by more horsepower, and thus more heat in the oil, will also reduce the viscosity even more, which will bring the viscosity closer to what the engine wants anyway. Until you get to that level, you're burning more fuel overcoming the added strain on the oil pump, through crank drag, added bearing drag and in general just, more drag. Er, that's about it. There is no reason to run that oil unless you need to go for a run over the surface of a volcano, or your initials are BCL. Go a 10w-50 if you have to go thicker than the 40, and you run track days. Royal Purple have one I think. The slight difference will make your oil pump less stressed, and you'll possibly have an engine that will feel younger in a hundred thousand km's time. Now, don't get me wrong, all of the components of your engine can handle quite a thick oil, since a 15w when cold is a fair amount thicker than say, a 70 grade oil when warm; so the thickness isn't the problem. Ok. An oils viscosity becomes lower as it accepts heat, right? Right. But does it really? Well yes to that too, but I'm getting somewhere... Physically (and overall) an oil definately thins out when you transfere a lot of heat into it, but what about its surface tension? Shear strength? Film strength? "sticky-ness"?. There is actually a part of an oil that becomes more viscous (or stretches out), as it heats up. Ok imagine this, you have a ball pit, like at a child care facility. Have it filled with balls that are covered in teflon, then fill the pit with a quality oil. If you drop an anvil in the ball pit, what happens? It slams to the bottom, goes through the floor and voilently kills the people on the floor below. Now fill the same pit with ropes, of the same volume as the balls, also with teflon covering them and also fill the rest of the volume with oil. Drop the anvil, what happens? The ropes stop the anvil from hitting the bottom. Why? Because the ropes will be "Pinched" by the force, and since chaos theory and fluid dynamics are both awesome as well as being a bastard, the ropes will quite easily prevent the anvil from hitting the bottom, as they wont be able to move out of each others way. The balls represent cold oil, the ropes represent a warm oil. As a quality oil is heated, the chains (or springs) stretch out (balls--> ropes), and therefore the overall strength of the oil increases until operating temperature. You don't need a massively thick oil to have the same effect, you need the right oil; let physics do the rest.

How much grunt do you have? Do you run a fair bit of timing advance? Very hot climate (do you live on the surface of the sun?)? Otherwise I can't really suggest you run the 60. Are you burning oil?

------====The short answer. 0w or 5w oils in the Ford motor:- Instant protection on a cold start = bad, Protection from 5 seconds until full circulation = good, Protection after full circulation (less than a minute) = good, 10w or 15w:- Instant protection = good Protection from 5 seconds until full circulation = good (maybe not as good though), Protection after full circulation (but it takes a bit longer than the 0w or 5w) = better Assuming both oils have the same running temp viscosity, the protection after running temp is roughly the same. So, from Time zero to 30 seconds after a cold start, 0-5w fails, 10-15w wins. From about 30 seconds till warm, the 0-5w probably has the upper hand, since it reaches full circulation and running temp viscosity earlier. But the first couple of seconds of a cold start is what does almost all the wear to the motor. So whats the point? ------====The long answer. If you're going for track days, you always do a warmup lap or two anyways; so I would highly recommend you not use the 0w-40. Infact (Heads up Chris), I recommend you change from that oil as soon as you possibly can, as every time you start your car in the middle of summer, the oil would have fully creeped. This is bad. The Falcon has good tolerences, yes, but its still no Audi or Ferrari, where a 0W or 5W is borderline too thick on a cold start before the engine has thermally expanded (its very slight, don't worry, but it is there, and they rely on it). The Ford motor doesn't quite have those tight clearance, so the oil can much more easily creep down (oil has this funny property where if it has a small gap to go through, it will act 'sticky'. The viscosity of the oil required to have this effect is completely dependant on the size of the gap. Thus, the bigger the gap, the thicker the oil needs to be in order to not creep through it quickly. Eventually, it will get through, but you can prolong this for days, and if you put extremely thick oil in a tight engine, weeks. Don't do that.). Anyways, the 0w-40 truely is a waste of your added cash. Don't get me wrong though, Edge is a quality oil, and I do sell it to cetain customers at work who have been specified in the owners manual to run a 0w-40 in. But, as I mentioned the other day, the 5w and the 0w in our climate (unless you live down near the Perisher Blue, where in winter I'd have no worries recommending it just to be sure; incase you need to start the car at 3am, you never know) is useless. Thus, 10w or 15w is where you want to be. It doesn't matter if you're doing track work or if you drive like Stevie Wonder, a 5w or 0w is certainly not the direction you want to be going, since when you first start it up, you're going to have little oil in the places you want. With a 0w, the problem is ever so slightly worse. But again, in our climate, a 0w and a 5w is roughly the same at round 20°C (notice I'm re iterating that point over and over.......). I really don't wanna see a bunch of guys on here needing early rebuilds to be told "metal to metal wear and tear"' is the reason; it is a real issue, but isn't something you can "feel" or notice; not yet anyway). So play it smart, run a 10w or 15w, and stay in the 30-50 range. 30 in really cold area's, all year round, 50 in very hot, or very high power applications. The 40 is for everything else. That being said, I can't really see a better compromise between cold start performance and good protection than a 10w-40. Oh, Mobile 1 5w-50 is apparently very close to being out of the "5w range", so you can try that also, since if that apparent bit of information is true, then as the story goes, it's as close to a 10w you can get, without actually using a 10w... If you get my drift... You'd get the benefit of knowing the base stock is nearly at the top of the food chain, even if Mobile 1 is slightly over rated.

Why thank you, I might try this. Cheers mate!

I'm in a hurry and can't go into detail, but the 8 speeder will shift so fast and smooth that you'll barely notice. And get this, it will be locking and unlocking the torque converter every time... That 12 speeder will be faster again, if they bother (its 3 planet sets with 3 over drives). The thing is, the over drives these days are nearly as strong as the rest of the gearset, so meh.... Oh, and btw, unless you're on full boost, an engine won't produce its flat as a table torque curve. So the gearbox will try and get the engine in the torque peak for the applied amount of throttle. That is absolutely the most important thing for economy. Since for a given amount of throttle, an engine is most efficient at its torque peak. With 5% throttle, this could be 1200 rpm, with 50%, it could be 2000 - 3000 with 3psi of boost, whatever, but the idea is, the more gears, the easier it is to literally sit the motor right on the torque peak all of the time. This could improve fuel consumption 10% on its own.

I like oil. From an engineers view, it takes some pretty awesome research and engineering thought to make todays oils. Obviously they make it look easy, but the reality is, an insane amount of groundwork has been done over the course of a few hundred years to understand and refine it, so making it significantly better, so much so that its worth upgrading, is a real feat. Anyways, just a few points (ok, quite a few, sorry). The tolerences are quite good actually, a highly respected automotive design engineer once said that if the viscosity when cold is too low on this particular turbo, then there wouldn't be sufficient lubrication for the turbo's bearing when first started. The motor itself preferes a 10w-30 (and I'm not saying this just because the NA requires it, its simply what the motor itself works best with). So long as every surface that requires lubrication, has lubrication (of the required quality of course), then everything is fine. This actually happens only 20 or 30 seconds after you start almost any modern engine (older engines tend to actually take a few minutes). But with a 15w cold viscosity, once 20 seconds is up, drive it like you stole it. In our climate, 0w oils are nothing more than a marketing scam... Again, In our climate (obviously important ). At 0°C (plus or minus a few), the viscosity of both a 0w and a 5w oil starts to converge, until both run along the same viscosity curve, assuming that the oil thins to the same viscosity when at 100°C (the second number). If you have two fully synthetic oils infront of you, both from reputable brands, one is a 0w-40 and one is a 5w-40, get the 5w. Unless you plan on starting your car in sub zero temps more often than not, the 0w is a useless exercise in how to quickly waste money. Oh, the point... 0w oils have a lower pour point, and slightly less detergents (the ones you want though) most of the time as well (but not always). So in some cases, you're worse off, but its so marginal that only over a billion km's of racetrack driving would you start to notice the difference. Simply put, for all intents and purposes, you're paying 10 dollars more for exactly the same result. Assuming your engine is mechanically in very good condition, then the best protection you will find for the inline 6 lies within high quality, predominately fully synthetic oils in the 10w-40 range (or in some significantly hot climate/high power cases, 10w-50, 15w-50 for really hot climates, but not many fully synthetics are 10w-50. Penrite HPR10 is, and for a semi synthetic, its about as good as you can get, and cheaper). But with the 10w you need to make sure that after a cold start; - The motor idles for 10 seconds before you put it in gear, and, - The motor doesnt recieve full throttle (more importantly, doesn't hit boost) or see the second half of the tacho for at least two minutes... Do that, and your car will love you long time! If you can't be bothered to pussyfoot your car for at least a minute or so, then dump 15w in there, but your overall protection won't be as good until the oil as at least 50% of running temperature. Its a catch 22. You're instant protection is higher for the first 30 seconds, but your short term protection is lower until running temp. You decide. May I just add, an oil's viscosity is the oils most important property, bar none and getting it completely wrong (even 5-10 either side of optimal will have an effect) will shorten the life of the motor and reduce its efficiency. The thing is, you may not notice this strait away, but you will five years down the track. Especially if you run more power. Like has been said, Royal Purple, Nulon, and the like, are probably your best choices. But not in that order as such, as they are all very good. The nulon has the lowest frictional properties of any mass produced oil in the engineering world, the royal purple probably has one of the highest quality base stocks in the mass produced world as well (marginally, but that's still a very significant achievement); it also has very good frictional properties to boot. It's your choice. The Nulon is cheaper though, but is missing one or two of the more exotic detergants that the RP has. There are others well worth your hard earned, but I've just had a day failing at thermodynamics report work and can't really think of them right now...

My good mate Dennis from ZF (who I unfortunately won't be talking with much anymore) was just moved over to the states (while still being employed by ZF Germany and payed in Euro's) to help with the overseeing of this project with regards to the next generation of BMW models. He's been saying that this transmission is simply an engineering masterpiece, the shifts are faster, yet smoother. Which makes sense since the lower the change in RPM per gear is, the faster you can rev match... Oh, and so long as the shift times are very fast (right now the ZF6 shift times are fast enough to be negligible for the economy math), more gears will ALWAYS give you better ecnomy. It requires less throttle to transfere the same, if not more, torque to the rear wheels through first, and by having a tighter spread the gearbox is able to shift much earlier, limiting the total number of RPM's required to get the same amount of torque to the rear wheels as the 6speed. And ZF are already doing the feasability study on auto's (not manualised auto's) with up to 12 speeds. Crazy Germans.

Yeah, being a friday release (I hope they don't make a habbit out of it) means I don't get my read till tomorrow :( Poop!

Oh, I was under the impression (from a few boys on here) that the local newsagent took on that responsibility? Why is it always late then? Would you suggest I give them a buzz? I've known guys to get their subscription on the tuseday, so I feel a bit jipped. I was really hanging out for this issue too :(

I thought the ZF was almost a sealed unit with a stupidly long service life (ie, it might as well be the length of time you own it). But I could be wrong...

XA is a full synthetic, I'd almost recommend the Penrite full synthetic with the Nulon additive though, but its up to you, its much of a muchness either war.

No F6 test? GT, but not the F6? Please, give me a reason to want monday to happen, because at the moment all I have is work and assignments on monday, and I'm not looking forward to it. Ooo, I just noticed something. The XR8 is just as fast in 4th and 6th as the VE... Which is odd considering the gear ratio's are (fairly) similar, but that in 3rd and 5th the difference is rediculous. Like I said, considering the ratio's are at least in the same ballpark (I haven't scoped them out for the new box yet).

Why those idiots (briefly idiots) are releasing the next issue on a Friday, I have no idea, since my subscription is always late which consequently means I won't get my issue untill monday. I'm convinced that my local newsagency are a bunch of Poofters (notice the capical P; this includes the females. How can I be sure they really are female?).

Make sure you leave the Lexus IS250 out of your Lexus group, since mum has one and she isn't nearly as bad as she should be. Also if I take the car out, then the average skill of Lexus drivers goes up by a factor of four, which is about, that much (hold your hands about 47.5 cm's appart, that's how much).

But, what you just said never happened? I don't get it. You're trying to turn around and just basically reword what I was saying you just did... And I wrote 2 posts ago 'minority' in regards to people like yourself, I didn't say the whole forum. 90% of the members aren't negative naysayers, simply because they have nothing better to do. I'll just leave it at that, I've been dragged into arguing over the internet through simply trying to help. Oh well, I'll just smile and walk away and reply to the people who have something constructive to post. Cheers [EDIT] Infact I'd really love to see how BCL is doing, so I've had enough of this thread for today. And to anyone else reading, please see that I simply wanted to help, no harm or sales intended, even if it came over that way. I honestly was tired and also fairly enthusiastic about sharing. Maybe those 2 things aren't a good mix. heh

Actually, just out of interest, please explain each of your comments here. No seriously, explain each line, each statement and give your reasons. Don't just reply with some stupid wit to amuse other blockheaded members, but actually expain yourself. Like where did I say 'I researched in a lab that..", and explain why your 3 tafe students are laughing (pressure from the big bad boss? They might have been laughing at you...). Explain how mythbusters, or any sly undercurrent meaning of that statement in regards to PTFE and its properties (not the Nulon products, just PTFE thank you as that is the real point of all of this) has anything to do with it. Are you trying to say that PTFE is useless? Or maybe it doesn't exist at all, maybe I made it all up. And why I should go play with toys, what makes you any better than me? What makes what you do any better than what I do? I'd just like to know whether you actually read my post or even thought about anything before you posted, not as a dig, but I'd genuinely like you to have a serious attempt at expaining it. Again I must reitterate, I am not having a go here, I am honestly interested as to how your comments have anything to do with... Well, anything.

that's how they get there jollies mate, you just gotta eventually ignore them and hope that you can still help people who genuinely would like to know about such products. Anyways, I'm fairly sure that the people who have a bit of understanding will see where I'm coming from and hopefully they wont shy away from trying to help as well, simply because there is a minority of morons are out there who just wanna shoot you down. If they have information on a product or engineering concept that can really help me, I don't want to miss out. And Daga, every job is honourable. Every job needs to be filled, so I'm taking your apparent dig at my job (if it wasn't, then explain the comment) as a compliment. I work hard at what I do in order to earn a crust in order pay my way through my degree. I don't work at coles mate, even if you do (I don't know, do you?), I actually have to understand a massive range of concepts and then explain them to customers on a daily basis. That doesn't make me awesome or anything, I just get on with it and do what I do while at work.

Thanks zap, I really appreciate your appreciation. As I said above, I simply wanted to bring to the light something that may not have been well known. I then found the fact sheets that had 75% of the information anyway, but written properly with relevant test data attatched...

Haha ok... Well, instead of making statements like "Of course we all know if it's on the web it MUST be right....", why don't you show me where this information is wrong first and then post? Oh snap. Now, I simply wanted to share something that people may not have been aware of. Anyone with half a clue, even a quarter of one, should be interested in reducing engine wear and gaining the other benefits of a good thing. So whats the point of your post? If it was any other brand I'd have said the same thing, Nulon just happen to be the company that produced the goods, I don't care who they are or where they come from (well being Aus is a good thing but still, whatever). Just like Ford made the XR6Turbo. If it looked exactly the same, had the same engine, had the same aftermarket support, but it was a... Sang yong.... Nothing would have changed. It would still be an awesome car (but supprising nonetheless). So get off your high horse, you're no better than anyone else, so stop commenting as if you are.

Oh and I think I remember what my motive for all this was... I really enjoy quality engineering, and when I find examples of good quality, easily provable, genuinely helpful engineering products, I guess I just can't help myself...