Lawsy

Stick with the 10w-40, its already thinner than most 10w's anyway, but not quite a 5ws... I still believe 0w oils in the Ford I6 is a waste of money (since, on average, 0w oils are more expensive than 5w or 10w). We're getting to a point with oils where the difference between the very good and truly great oils is becoming less apparent. Just don't be stupid about it. Only buy full synthetic oils, from the best brands that these fella's recommend, in the right viscosity range (5w or 10w to 30 40 or 50 depending on your conditions). Until you start buying engines from SPIKO you shouldn't be to concerned about engine life, and the half watt of power you'll gain from changing your Motul to Royal Purple just isn't worth it.

I want to see someone do a custom projector mould for the Falcon. In the states, you see custom moulded housings in Corvettes and what not and it doesn't look that hard. Its literally just a mould into the current shaped assembly with a high quality pair of projector housings mounted in the mould... IE, you would make a dummy mould with a dummy set of optics in the mould and then cut it to fit the real deal, allowing for minor focal adjustments at the same time. With a quality set of optics in the projectors you could make it look fairly sweet, as well as overcome a lot of the "apparent" legalities around HID's... Put it this way, if you have projectors, most cops haven't the slightest clue about self levelling... And if they're (your lights) focussed correctly then they (cops) won't even look at you twice. I honestly haven't a clue why no one has done this yet, it really isn't that hard, and as long as you purchase a quality set of optics, you'll have a projected image (the shape and cuttoff sharpness) comparable to a Libery or an Accord Euro... And that, in a Falcon, would be sweet.... PS, I have projectors in my old BG 323 with 55w HID's, but because I'm a perfectionist (its bloody anoying) the focus of my lights does not dazzle anyone, unlike standard Accord Euro's which are set to 0° from the factory (utter morons I swear... You'd think they would have noticed). Always set HID's to around -2° or even -3° below the horizontal, standard halogens should be around -1.5° depending on the distance to the ground from the center of the projection lense (the higher your headlights are off the ground, the more angle you can use for the safety of others, without reducing your beam length too much)....

For anyone else, try using the nulon diff and gearbox treatment. If it works towards a 30% service life increase in a 100 tonne dump truck, it sure as hell will help with near on 600 Newton meters being thrown at it through a differential...

That's fair enough Santo, you're not alone there that's for sure mate. Oils is a pain in the ass until you get to the bottom of the barrel and work your way up from there, so to speak... Here's the trick with oils though mate, by its very nature you're not going to really notice a "problem" as such. You never will, really, unless you've got it completely wrong (which you haven't, you've stuck with the right viscosity, which is the most important thing and you've got it spot on, so 10 points there). Its the hidden benefit that you're missing out on though... In your case, you're motor has run from new (I assume) on magnatec. Now there's nothing wrong with that, it is a good oil, I just personally don't like it because of the ridiculous marketing that goes with it. That being said, you should notice a slight improvement in smoothness and a slight drop in your fuel economy if you were to switch to the Nulon oil. Put it this way, you have two choices. Protection wise, the 10w-40 is going to exceed the current protection performance you're motor is getting with the magnatec. You'll simply be losing less power due to pumping loss, therefor gaining in the economy area. So that's an improvement in economy and performance as well as a slight improvement in protection. The second option you have is the 15w-50. Now, for all intents and purposes, due to having a greater reduction in friction and being on the thinner side of things for a 15w-50, the engine will have to work just as hard as it does now to pump the oil around. So your engine will be none the wiser as such. But you'll significantly gain in the protection area, just not in the performance or economy area, as the difference will be negligible. And as to your fully synthetic question, no, it can not hurt going to a fully synthetic, you can only benefit from the higher sheer strength, a more stable viscosity and detergent package as well as a higher resistance to oxidisation. There are no negatives other than price, but you gain more in the protection/economy stakes to more than compensate for the price difference. Now I know you love doing your oil changes every 5-7 thou, but if you switch to the Nulon, try and make it an even 8 or 10... You're simply wasting money here (assuming you don't thrash the pants off it on a daily basis). If you do thrash it dailing, then fine, every 5 thou, but even then, there isnt much point. If you service at a consistant 8 thousand, you'll be a happy camper in the pocket and your engine will be a happy camper as well. Also note, supercheap sell the 10w-40 in a 6L bottle for almost the same price as the 5L bottle, which is one of the reasons I recommend so much, you get more oil and more a better performing oil for your money.... Hope that clears it up.

Not a lot of info on the Fuchs out there, and its hard to find these days, though supercheap can order it if you speak to the right people. I'd still stay away from the 5w oils though, its simply of no benefit for this application; you simply do not have the need for it! I've had a quick look regarding the magnatec and what I've found pretty much backs up everything I said in my previous post. Magnatec is simply a mineral oil with a very small percentage of ester based synthetic mixed in to give the oil a weak electrostatic charge. I still think that with the right viscosity, this sort of effect isn't really required. If you look after your engine, make sure you've got some heat into the oil before WOT runs, then your engine will suffer little damage anyways. But you must run the correct viscosity to stay protected. If an oil is too thin, the residual layer the oil will leave on all lubricated surfaces will not have sufficient shear strength to prevent metal to metal contact, no matter how good the oil is. Having the correct viscosity oil means that the residual layer of oil on critical surfaces is capable of preventing most of this contact until the oil pressure is up and the oils molecules have a chance to stretch out, providing greater protection at a reduced viscosity.... That last point is where about 99.9% of everyone glides over without having any idea that they just read the very thing that makes modern oils do what they do. These molecules that stretch out are in an oil to combat the viscosity reduction oils go through when subjected to heat and pressure. lol I just though of a really stupid analogy for this... Say you have a doorway that is 1m wide, and you're short distance away. You have a small period of time to get to the door and keep it open. So you send in a really fat bloke, who is a little more than 1m wide. He gets up to speed and runs to the door as fast as he can and just gets stuck. That's what a cheap thick oil at running temp is like (or a good oil in very cold temperatures). He still keeps the door open, but he's just being a wedge which is taking its toll on him (he's taking a beating for it). Clearly this isn't the most efficient way of doing things because it took a whole lot of energy to get up to speed and the poor bloke is stopping the door from closing by just being in the way, so he's getting all squished the poor bastard.... Why not just get a really fit, strong bloke to run into the same door with his arms stretched out... He'll still get stuck in the doorway and his strength is much higher, thus he can keep the door open using strength, rather than size, for longer. He took a whole lot less energy to get there and he got there a whole lot faster as well. that's what a quality oil of the correct viscosity is doing at full operational temperature... The stretched out arms are the key here, the oil is still thin enough to be easily pumped around (or get up to speed in my example), but the molecules (arms) are stretched out, preventing the oil from just getting out of the way when heat and pressure is applied. The oil will attempt to hold its ground and resist being squashed. Ok, that's the most retarded analogy I think I've ever thought up, but it does the trick.... So I'm going to leave now before I get anymore stupid idea's....

Esters are electrostaticly charged so they have a tendancy to cling to metals. If you read one of my first posts I mention how oils have a tendancy to creep through small gaps when under pressure or exposed to a force (ie, gravity), but there is a point where if the gap is small enough, or the oil is thick enough, then you can almost prevent creep all together. If the oil also has an attractive force towards the surface, obviously this is going to greatly reduce the oils creep by a significant amount, which allows a thinner oil to have the same creep properties as a thicker one, which obviously helps leave more residual lubrication on critical parts. This is how ester based synthetic oils get such high cold start performance figures, as more of the oil is lubricating the engine when cold due to less of the oil creeping while the engine isn't on. As far as I'm aware, Magnatec is only like 5%-10% synthetic (most semi synthetics have a fairly low synthetic percentage).... But I'm just guestimating here, if anyone can be bothered to check then please give me the right numbers. Heres the catch though. Its semi synthetic, with a low proportion of ester. Only the ester base of the oil can cling, so you have to ask yourself: Is the ester part of the oil seperating itself to cling to the metal (this woud be catastrophic if it were true)? or, Is the already low in amplitude force being spread out over a larger area? Which would be effectively decreasing the force to 1/20 (5%) of a fully ester based oil since the ester base is so diluted throughout the oil. In other words, the film left behind after a night out in the cold would be similar (ever so slightly thicker) as a regular non ester based oil. Considering the film is already going to be quite thin and easily breakable (the film is only residual oil left behind due to surface tension) a slight increase in surface tension is going to make very little difference, even if we consider the fact that even a slight increase in surface tension would reduce the oils propensity to creep, it's just not enough to write home about... The short of it is that there are far more important properties to an oils overall performance than increasing its ability to cling by an insignificant amount, which is like going from having almost no lubrication at start up, to having slightly more than almost no lubrication at start up... I'll be back in a few hours and freshen up on some research then I'll let you know after that what other crap you should be more worries about... Hope this helps a tad

That's a nice way to waste money and kill your oil pump. Yes yes.... He's back. Hi. I'm going to make this so easy that if you get it wrong from now on then you must hate your car. If you're stock, use a 5w/10w/15w - 40/50. You're retarded if you use anything outside of this range in a stock/mild motor... If you run lots of grunt, stick with the 50. What NOT to use... Anything with a 0w or 20w Anything with a 70 in it. I was about to say anything that's a 60, and I'd like to infact, but a 60 grade does have its place; on the track.. And since FPV (sigh) recommend it, then I can't say they're complete morons now can I (I'd like to though, an index of 60 is just rediculous for this engine, but whatever...). There you go, I got on here and found something interesting again, got to sound smart (and arrogant) again and type something in pink (my fiancee loves pink... She'll be proud of me). My recommended oil list Nulon 10w-40 (for most intents and purposes; you're a bit silly if this isn't your first choice). Nulon 15w-50 (if you have more grunt), Royal Purple 10w-40 (its just very good oil), Penrite sin 15w-40 (same again, very good), Penright HPR10 10w-50 (bargain hunters choice if you wanna save a 10er, fantastic semi synthetic (best I know of infact)), Mobile 1 5w-50 (very good oil, but warm it up a bit first, its my least recommended, recommended oil, for no other reason than its a 5w...). that's all I can think of right now.... And I probably wont add to this list because I'll forget to post here again for another year or so... So just follow the above rules.... The sweetspot, in my opinion, is any quality fully or semi synthetic oil in the 10w range that thins to a 40 or 50... I can not make this any easier for you, if you somehow get it wrong from this point on, then you should smack yourself.

Everyone BUT HUSTLER says yes, so you decide.

Oh and it can't hurt to run an engine flush now and then through the motor, just don't leave it in there too long, and add it while the engine is already warm. Only leave it for about 6 or 7 minutes, which should be plenty enough time to circulate. Also when draining your oil, when its nearly empty, poor in 400ml of fresh oil in while its still draining to make sure you get out any of the flush that could be in the sump. This almost always works for getting that last bit of crap oil out of the sump that just didn't quite wanna come out on its own.

I got shut down by some fellow forum members with downs syndrome some time back (won't be mentioning any names but they were fairly moronic to say the least) for trying to help others by mentioning the multiple uses for this product. Think of it like this, if I came onto this forum and said "oh there is this brand I heard about, called Ford, do they make any good cars?" Everyone would be happy to answer and what not. You do the same with anything else, and you're a "stooge". The reality is, they don't know what they're missing out on. People with no education might try and tell you it doesn't work (they certainly had none, if you can find the thread read it and see for yourself), but provide you with zero evidense of this. In general, engineers with multiple degree's can not only explain why it works, but Nulon themselves had engineers from the competition test some of there new formula's, and still came up with the goods. This product happens to be one of them. You can use it as an upper cylinder lube (prepare for some smoke though), double treat to help get rid of carbon deposits through bearings, rings and turbo's, you can put the stuff in old engines to help quiet them down a little (ie, my 354,000km astina, still going strong, still being thrashed, still refusing to die), and things like that. It may also increase your fuel efficiency, but you may not be able to tell all that much, as it may only be 2%. /rant ---------------------------------- As for the articles posted above, it was quite interesting to see that the high end Royal Purple stuff was fantastic, and so was the penrite gear (even the HPR, being a cheaper oil had a much higher shear strength, even though the results were the same when this was broken, at least it has a much higher chance of staying below the shear point). I've been saying to customers lately how good the penrite stuff is, this is just another bit of proof to add to the list. It all starts with the base stock, use a quality base, and work from there. Its a shame the nulon stuff isn't in this test, since in similar tests it had results near the pointy end of the field. I think the viscosity and temperature may not be ideal for this particular testing method, though. Something just doesn't add up with some of the results (ie, the Mobil1 results, I smell a bit of dead cow). Mobil 1 is one of the few pure, ester based synthetic oils where they can actually say 'fully synthetic' and not lie to you. I find this results VERY hard to believe. This post may not make huge sense and may be poorly typed out, look at the time, I jumped on to check ebay and ended up on here =/ Go figure.