jrjoz

Deadness is more to stop noise in the cabin from the car going along, if you have swapped the wheels you generate a heap more noise going from a 17" lower profiles 19" etc... Also treating the rear wall will help the low end of your system, doing the doors reduces road and engine noise. Check out eBay for Dynamat or similar to look at the cost.

It's more about your cross over points. In a 2 way you would set 1 cross over around 2.5khz For 3 way you need 2 points around 900hz and 3.15khz The imprint has 6 outs being L/R Tweeter L/R mid L/R rear I dont think you get a cross over on the L/R rear I could be wrong though. J

When I started work I tested both front and rear outputs against each other and didn't notice any difference. Yeah I did the basic set up off the unit then re did everything off the laptop. Final profile I went for was the 3rd one I think, pretty much pushed the bass all the way up with a high end roll off. I also used the second option in the click boxes which was another high roll off filter. Even at this point it was still pretty lumpy, I then ran pink noise off my ipod and also a Test CD and used the parametric eq to solves some issues. Would be sooooo much simpler if there was a 31band graphic in there somewhere. 3 band parametric is a joke and the laptop control is still super limited. Cheers, J

I just went through an install in my FG ute and IMO I wouldn't put rear speakers in. All this is going to do is mess with your stereo image and sound stage up front, the problem is any speaker producing over 300hz allows you to pick where the sound source is. I tried putting a couple of 6.5" sub in the rear spots but I had trouble getting a good enough seal in that cavity. Here is an album I made - http://s1262.photobucket.com/albums/ii619/jjrooney/ Main thing I would push for is rather than the money on the 6x9's defiantly get some sound deadness onto that back wall. Made a massive difference to the road noise I was dealing with. Cheers, J

If you want to keep running the rear speakers you will need to split them to create and input for the line convertor. Something to check out in regards to the remote wire is if the convertor has a signal sensing function, with the Alpine unit I just installed it constantly draws a tiny current and as soon as it sees signal is boots up and also have the capability of sending a remote out to the amplifier to switch on. This is really handy with the FG as you can change when the music stops, either when you remove the key or when you open the drivers door. Good luck, J

How are you doing a 3 way front stage off the 660? You only have crossovers and outputs to go 2 way right? I spent some more time on my tune today as well, had a spectrum analyser running all the way through set up. Got it much flatter but still have a dip at 400hz that the 660 doesn't give me the ability to correct. Also made 10 reference measurements all around the drivers head position which gave much better results than the standard 4 that it asks for. Here is my little tune set up...

Hey ya, Install looks great. I just installed one of the Apline 660's as well and I think I might swap it out as I want a bit more control. The level sensing remote out is great though as you can change when the music stops on the FG ICC and I couldn't find a 12vt out that changed as you changed the ICC settings. Set up on the unit is pretty easy but I haven't been able to get what I would consider and accurate "flat" tune out of it. The delay times have been fine though. I compared it against a - http://www.phonic.com/en/paa3.html And also the computer software/mic we use to flatten PA systems. The parametric eq onboard is really annoying as the bass/mid/treble bands it uses don't meet. For example, I have a dip at 400hz that I want to bump up just a tad. The bass eq band stops to early to get to it and the mid doesn't go low enough either. When leaving it to do it's own referencing the tune the alpine gives is really bright, I haven't tested the "reference" mic shipped with the kit yet as my bet would be that this is where the problem is. I think I might be expecting too much from a mic shipped with a $300 car processor as most of the reference mic's we do venues with are worth a grand or so. Anyways here are the toys that I have installed and pretty happy with the current results. More install pix at - http://photobucket.com/fgtreatment

Also just wondering if you could just but the little tweeter grill, the outline of the area behind it is already marked out and you could trim standard pillars with a Dremel. Could save a few $'s if those pop out grills can be located.

I'm just waiting on my splits to arrive so I can finish my install. I wanted to keep my cabin looking stock so I have put a 6.5" sub in each of the rear speaker positions in my FG Ute. I sealed the cavities they are mounted in and made tapered speaker mounts so they fire straight at each other, will let you know how they go as soon as I get the rest of it wired up.

Use the crossover that comes with them.

There are 2 inputs on the processor, the speaker/line converter input will be the ICC and the line level RCA input could be another head unit/iPod whatever. It has a little remote switch to change input sources.

With my install I just grabbed the alpine pxe h-660, it has an rca aux in and remote so you can switch sources with the push of a button. Also has separate level control and drops the eq used to correct the HU when you switch sources. Should have it all together in the next couple of weeks so I will let you know how it goes. Also for a ute defiantly look at some dynamat for the rear wall and doors, it's crazy the difference it makes.

Just picked up a new set from a ford dealer, $95 new.

Yeah interested to see what they do, I just want a clean flat system not something to shake sh*t out of the car also as I don't generally listen to music that loud the 6.5" subs should voice more accurately at lower volumes. Also I run production at a venue so this is what I get to play on at work. D&B Q with J Subs - Spec's on that system... 12 x 18" Sub 12 x 10" Mid 6 x 1.3" Horn Total power 19200w @ 4ohm

As far as I know Dynaudio only use the one trading name, they spec there car gear as ESOTEC but still brand it as Dynaudio. Cheers, J

Dynaudio are a household name when it comes to studio recording monitors, so are Focal for that matter. When it comes to the studio monitors I prefer the Dynaudio over Focal for their high end reproduction so hopefully that's the same with their car audio products. All their speakers are hand made and they do the audio for the Bugatti Pucinni which is a good sign. I tried to get them and hear them in Australia but was told I had to wait a month for them to be made and imported, also the Australia RRP was nearly $1200 for a pair of splits. I ended up importing from the US as it was a hell of a lot cheaper and they were in stock, I should have them in the next few days. Also if you are looking at importing Dynaudio make sure you deal with an authorised dealer as there are a heap of copies around that are made in China. Some more info here - http://www.dynaudio.com/int/car_hifi/index.php Cheers, J

I'm in the middle of my ute install at the moment, the sound deadening in the FG's is pathetic so I would defiantly put at least a few sheets in the doors and a little bit of insulation directly behind the door speakers to stop reflections. Here is a link to the treatment I have done so far, massive reduction in road noise and even the factory system sounds ok now. - http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/80983-dynamat-treatment-of-xr6-fg-ute/ Trying to keep my install looking stock, just waiting on all the gear to be delivered. JL Audio 500/3 - 100w per split, 300w for the subs Alpine PXE-H660 - if this sux it will be swapped as I have heard mixed reviews Dynaudio 242 GT - very interested to hear these as they make amazing studio monitor speakers 2 x JL Audio 6.5" - subs in rear speaker locations, cavities have been treated to match box volume Photos to come. J

Just putting a new system into an FG and looking to get some of the premium A pillars. Who's a good contact? Here is the new spec. Dynaudio 242GT 6.5" splits 2 x JL Audio 6.5" Subs in rear speaker locations Running off a JL X D 500/3 All speaker cables will be replaced as well. Where is the easiest spot to split a remote line for the amp from? Thanks, J

So I have treated the ute pretty well when it comes to road noise etc http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/80983-dynamat-treatment-of-xr6-fg-ute/ Next is the stereo swap over. Current plan... Dynaudio 242GT 6.5" splits 2 x JL Audio 6.5" Subs in rear speaker locations ( would have put 8"s but there isn't enough room ) Running off a JL X D 500/3 All speaker cables will be replaced as well. My main concern is noise as I have to use the factory ICC, also I need to steal a remote line for the amp - anyone done this yet? Has anyone had much luck adding an amp to the FG's? Cheers, J

Hey Gang, I have put a few replies on topics relating to Dynamat / Dynaliner. From standard I set up a few tests to see what happens as you treat the cabin. I run an audio production company and regularly treat venues and studios that require high quality sound, figured I could probably write all this off on the business if I write a bit of a report on my findings yeah? Few things... my ute is a 2009 Ford FG XR6 NA on 19's running Dunlop tires, larger wheels will always increase road noise. Pink noise test was done through standard speakers not premium sound. Engine test was just at idle with no background noise. These tests are done with no weighting as using A or C weighting would filter some low noise from results. Original Tests Engine – 79.9 dB Pink – 88.9 80km – 96.75 Rear Wall, Seatbelt channel, Speaker Cavities ( took around 4 hrs to treat ) - 1 full bulk pack used + 70% of a 50mm Dynaliner Seatbelt cavity filled with Acoustisorb 3 and sealed with aluminium tape, speaker cavities treated with Dynamat then a layer of Acoustisorb 3, all cavities in rear wall filled and sealed. Engine – 79.55 Pink – 89.95 80km – 93.05 After doors treated ( took around 2.5 hours to treat ) 4 sheets used + Remainder of Dynaliner placed behing speakers Engine – 80 Pink – 91 80km – 91 or 82dB C weighted Results indicate that we have lost around 6dB of road noise in the cabin at 8kmh which is huge. We also see an improvement in the speaker performance and flatter frequency response, there is a big increase in frequencies below 100hz even from the crap factory system. I looked into doing the rood but feel it's not viable on a ute as it's half the size of a sedan and very rigid. Ford have also treated a large portion of the floor but when I get a chance I would look at doing the front wells and also treat the bonnet to keep the engine noise contained a little more. My photo album can be found here with a few tips I made along the way - photobucket.com/fgtreatment A tutorial to strip the doors can be found here - Anyways I think it's well worth it, the standard speakers are even now worth listening to but I'm doing a full system over haul in the coming weeks. Looking into the following... Dynaudio Esotec 242 GT splits 2 x Dynaudio Esotec MW 180's in rear speaker positions Running off JL - X D 700/5 - Channels bridged to run the splits, sub channel running both 8"s Also got a box of Plastidip so will test up what black wheels and sports bar look like. Any Q's feel free to hit me up, I'm in Melbourne. Cheers, J

Yeah I took a bit of time on those rear pockets, layer of dynamat then also used 50mm Acousisorb 3 which is a noise insulation I use on venues. I also filled the channel behind the seat belt as that led straight to the outer panels. Did the doors last week but waiting for a dry day to re measure the cabin noise,even the standard stereo is sounding pretty good now. Cheers, Jason

Hey guys, I'm in the middle of treating a 2009 FG XR6 Ute, I run an audio production company so have made a bit of a project out of this. Basically with any sound system be it a recording studio or live venue you get a much better result if you treat the space. I will be writing a full report on how it all goes but so far with the rear wall of the ute treated I have already knock 5dB of road noise out of the cabin. Also any cavity you put a speaker in needs to be treated to stop resonance of a panel creating phase issues, basically if you do take the time to treat your door and large panels the louder and cleaner your system will be. I have just finished both doors today so will re test and see how much quieter the cabin now is. Here is how far sound treatment can go also this channel has some great advice on the mis conceptions of car audio http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrk507bSnWE&feature=relmfu Below is the treatment of the rear wall, single layer of dynamat all over, all holes filled and sealed, second sheet in the center of the panel then a 50mm layer of dynaliner. This has made the rear wall no longer sound like a rattling steel drum. If you want anymore info feel free to PM me. As mentioned above, Tyres are the biggest issue with road noise!

Hey Guys, I'm in the middle of treating my ute... I run a production company so I'm measuring the results as I go and will write up a full report on what I find. Currently by treating the rear wall and quarters there is around a 4dB reduction in roadnoise and a gain of 1.5dB under 100hz out of the factory sound system. This is a full bulk pack of dynamat (double layer of dynamat and a dynaliner across the rear wall). I also did the insides of the speaker cavities and any holes which where then covered in dynamat. I will do the doors in the next week or so and update you on how effective it is.