jrjoz

Deadness is more to stop noise in the cabin from the car going along, if you have swapped the wheels you generate a heap more noise going from a 17" lower profiles 19" etc... Also treating the rear wall will help the low end of your system, doing the doors reduces road and engine noise. Check out eBay for Dynamat or similar to look at the cost.

It's more about your cross over points. In a 2 way you would set 1 cross over around 2.5khz For 3 way you need 2 points around 900hz and 3.15khz The imprint has 6 outs being L/R Tweeter L/R mid L/R rear I dont think you get a cross over on the L/R rear I could be wrong though. J

When I started work I tested both front and rear outputs against each other and didn't notice any difference. Yeah I did the basic set up off the unit then re did everything off the laptop. Final profile I went for was the 3rd one I think, pretty much pushed the bass all the way up with a high end roll off. I also used the second option in the click boxes which was another high roll off filter. Even at this point it was still pretty lumpy, I then ran pink noise off my ipod and also a Test CD and used the parametric eq to solves some issues. Would be sooooo much simpler if there was a 31band graphic in there somewhere. 3 band parametric is a joke and the laptop control is still super limited. Cheers, J

I just went through an install in my FG ute and IMO I wouldn't put rear speakers in. All this is going to do is mess with your stereo image and sound stage up front, the problem is any speaker producing over 300hz allows you to pick where the sound source is. I tried putting a couple of 6.5" sub in the rear spots but I had trouble getting a good enough seal in that cavity. Here is an album I made - http://s1262.photobucket.com/albums/ii619/jjrooney/ Main thing I would push for is rather than the money on the 6x9's defiantly get some sound deadness onto that back wall. Made a massive difference to the road noise I was dealing with. Cheers, J

If you want to keep running the rear speakers you will need to split them to create and input for the line convertor. Something to check out in regards to the remote wire is if the convertor has a signal sensing function, with the Alpine unit I just installed it constantly draws a tiny current and as soon as it sees signal is boots up and also have the capability of sending a remote out to the amplifier to switch on. This is really handy with the FG as you can change when the music stops, either when you remove the key or when you open the drivers door. Good luck, J

How are you doing a 3 way front stage off the 660? You only have crossovers and outputs to go 2 way right? I spent some more time on my tune today as well, had a spectrum analyser running all the way through set up. Got it much flatter but still have a dip at 400hz that the 660 doesn't give me the ability to correct. Also made 10 reference measurements all around the drivers head position which gave much better results than the standard 4 that it asks for. Here is my little tune set up...

Hey ya, Install looks great. I just installed one of the Apline 660's as well and I think I might swap it out as I want a bit more control. The level sensing remote out is great though as you can change when the music stops on the FG ICC and I couldn't find a 12vt out that changed as you changed the ICC settings. Set up on the unit is pretty easy but I haven't been able to get what I would consider and accurate "flat" tune out of it. The delay times have been fine though. I compared it against a - http://www.phonic.com/en/paa3.html And also the computer software/mic we use to flatten PA systems. The parametric eq onboard is really annoying as the bass/mid/treble bands it uses don't meet. For example, I have a dip at 400hz that I want to bump up just a tad. The bass eq band stops to early to get to it and the mid doesn't go low enough either. When leaving it to do it's own referencing the tune the alpine gives is really bright, I haven't tested the "reference" mic shipped with the kit yet as my bet would be that this is where the problem is. I think I might be expecting too much from a mic shipped with a $300 car processor as most of the reference mic's we do venues with are worth a grand or so. Anyways here are the toys that I have installed and pretty happy with the current results. More install pix at - http://photobucket.com/fgtreatment

Also just wondering if you could just but the little tweeter grill, the outline of the area behind it is already marked out and you could trim standard pillars with a Dremel. Could save a few $'s if those pop out grills can be located.

I'm just waiting on my splits to arrive so I can finish my install. I wanted to keep my cabin looking stock so I have put a 6.5" sub in each of the rear speaker positions in my FG Ute. I sealed the cavities they are mounted in and made tapered speaker mounts so they fire straight at each other, will let you know how they go as soon as I get the rest of it wired up.

Use the crossover that comes with them.

There are 2 inputs on the processor, the speaker/line converter input will be the ICC and the line level RCA input could be another head unit/iPod whatever. It has a little remote switch to change input sources.

With my install I just grabbed the alpine pxe h-660, it has an rca aux in and remote so you can switch sources with the push of a button. Also has separate level control and drops the eq used to correct the HU when you switch sources. Should have it all together in the next couple of weeks so I will let you know how it goes. Also for a ute defiantly look at some dynamat for the rear wall and doors, it's crazy the difference it makes.

Just picked up a new set from a ford dealer, $95 new.

Yeah interested to see what they do, I just want a clean flat system not something to shake sh*t out of the car also as I don't generally listen to music that loud the 6.5" subs should voice more accurately at lower volumes. Also I run production at a venue so this is what I get to play on at work. D&B Q with J Subs - Spec's on that system... 12 x 18" Sub 12 x 10" Mid 6 x 1.3" Horn Total power 19200w @ 4ohm

As far as I know Dynaudio only use the one trading name, they spec there car gear as ESOTEC but still brand it as Dynaudio. Cheers, J