jabtronic

Looks like it's gone already. Can someone recommend where to re-upload it to? Zip file - 140MB

FG workshop manual https://gofile.io/?c=zk69XW login ID removed

I don't care much for bovs or their noises either, I've always planned to stick with the factory one but I am looking to replace it as maintenance item (high kms) which is how I stumbled across the GFB. So there's a bunch of VW, Audi, Ford RS, Merc, BMW guys posting on forums saying they actually noticed a performance increase or less lag using this over the Bosch unit that comes standard on our cars I'm just surprised there isn't even one mention of it on here? Even on Amazon a heap of people raving on about it. https://www.amazon.com/T9351-Valve-diverter-valve-advantage/product-reviews/B00HQPV29U/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_show_all_btm?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews Why #turbosmart over an Australian company? Are are you referring to the Kompact bov? Seems you guys are thinking that I'm after a fully sik bov I'm not I was going to replace my old 300,000km Bosch bov... with a brand new Bosch bov.. but after seeing reviews for the GFB I'll be purchasing that instead. I'm just surprised theres no mention of it here that's why I posted the thread.

GFB make a replacement for the factory bosch blow off valve called the DV+. It's been out for a few years and heaps of VW guys seem to praise it highly but I've searched and can't find any mention of it on here? Has anybody use one and noticed any improvement over the standard bov? Cheers

Cosmis XT006R 18 x 9.5 +10 18 x 11 +8

I got 2 years 4 months and 55,000kms out of my ATR2s and there was was still more tread on em than that Anyway, for purposes of this thread 18x9.5 +10 fronts with 235/40R18 Michenlin Pilot Sport 4, these tyres don't stretch as well as I expected. 18x11 +8 rears with 265/35R18 Achilles ATR2 Front guards are rolled/pumped maybe 10-15mm further out than standard. Rears have been pushed out very little by adjustment in the wheel arch brackets but they are not yet rolled. I will need to roll them to go lower, as pictured the guards sit on the tyres with axle resting on bumpstops, raised it back up for now. The front tyres stick out slightly but this is with neutral camber. They will tuck in easily with a little negative camber. There is no scrubbing at all.

ATR2 pretty good in the dry but not so good in the wet. But for the price they can't be beat and they last a long long time before they either wear or start to fall apart. I'm running Michelin Pilot Sport 4 on the front and Achilles ATR2 on the rear. Only because PS4 rears are $390ea compared to $145ea for the ATR2. The Pilot Sports are an awesome tyre, I had them on my previous wheels.

Anyone else having problems browsing the forums or just me? Every time I click next/prev page in a thread it says "Loading" and then the page just goes white and I have to hit refresh for it to load. Happens on PC and on my mobile using Chrome.

Finally changed tyres today after 2 years 4 months and 55,000kms on my ATR2s. It's pissing down rain and the rears were almost bald had maybe 1-1.5mm remaining so it was a little sketchy on the highway in the wet. The fronts still had maybe 30-40% tread but were camber worn. I was still very impressed with the dry performance. The tyre joint didn't have any more in stock and with today being Saturday I couldn't be bothered waiting so I've gone with Michelin Pilot Sport 3 this time around, they have a $100 cashback promotion going on so ended up being only $20 more per tyre than the ATR2.

There's a few pics of D1R's on utes in here http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/80128-lenso-d1rs/page-2 I was asking about the Lenso Spec E. EDIT: Beaten..

Any pics of the Lenso spec E on the ute?

Why not just bend it out of the way?

Yeah I run a Synology NAS on our network and for each TV use a raspberrypi with OSMC/Kodi as the media player. Works awesome after setting up all the shows with correct info and metadata etc and also being able to use my android phone as the remote control

When those 2 errors occasionally came up for me it took me months trying to figure out the problem It was a new brake switch (above brake pedal) that fixed it. It may not be the problem for you but they're very easy to swap out, if you can borrow one off someone

I was going to do that also but in the end couldn't be bothered :D It's easy to undo the bolts in the engine bay for drivers side and from underneath for passenger side so I didn't bother. Pretty easy to do just make a plate with two holes, weld the bolts to the plate instead and push them through, is there enough room to manoeuvre the plate with bolts through from the engine bay though? Turbo would be in the way?

Most people take their lowered XR6 in for a wheel alignment and are informed that there's not enough room left on the camber bolts for the amount of shims required to adjust the camber back to factory specs. I was in the same boat, I've lowered the front of my FG ute using SSSL springs and then it's another 8mm lower again because I have Bilstein shocks with the spring installed on the lowest of the 3 settings. HTG measurement is around 335mm (which fills the guard perfectly). My camber was around -2.5° so I needed 1.5° of adjustment to bring it back to -1.0° Now I only had around 10mm left on the upper control arm bracket bolts. The figure for adjustment (from Superpro) is ~9mm of shims = 1° of adjustment. This means I would need around 13.5mm of shims installed to correct the camber. The bolts were not long enough obviously, any suspension shop would say "you need a camber kit". Superpro make a camber kit which is "designed to allow Camber Adjustment on Standard Height & XR Ride Height Vehicles only." The kit is around $100 and you need two kits per vehicle so that's 200 bucks. Each kit comes with 2 brackets, 3x 6mm, 2x 3mm and 4x 1.6mm shims BUT you need to put 1x each shim on EACH bracket for the kit to be the same as standard. So really you're only getting 1x 6mm, 0x 3mm and 2x 1.6mm for adjustment. How am I supposed to install 2x 13.5mm of shims per side with only 1x 6mm shim and 2x 1.6mm shims? The kit might be preferable for a suspension shop which has extra shims they can use but you've just basically forked out $200 for some brackets with longer bolts and no change to the camber (and I'm not sure just how much longer the bolts are after putting 1 of each shim back on?). I ended up going the DIY option which is installing longer bolts into the standard brackets. It's easy, costs $3-$5 for 8x M10x45mm bolts and only took an hour or so. First you need to remove the brackets from the car. I have a hoist but its easy to do on jack stands just remove the wheel, undo 2 bolts on the upper control arm then undo the 4 bolts in the engine bay and the 2 brackets will come out. Check the condition of your upper control arm bushes, mine were stuffed. Make sure you take note of previously installed shims and their positions. 1 bracket removed This is the bracket, that's a shim. Now, find a bit of heavy wall pipe that fits over the head of the bolt and put the pipe in a vice. Position the bolt head on the pipe and hit the bolt through with a hammer. The bolts are fusion welded onto the bracket but come out pretty easily. You'll need to clean up the welds so the new bolts sit flush. That's a 5mm shim on the right. Length of old bolt is 35mm Length of new bolt is 45mm (M10 bolts btw) Now you can either just place bolt through or you can weld them in to make them easier to do up in the vehicle. I welded my bolts in and a quick coat of paint. After that it's just reassembly making sure to put the shims in their original positions. I milled up some 12.5mm shims out of alluminium which you can see behind the factory shim in this pic. I still need to get a wheel alignment but this should help cut down the amount of adjustment required. Shims are pretty easy to make, if they don't need to be removed easily just use some flat bar in whatever thickness you want and drill 2 holes.. easy. Your wheel alignment place will have shims anyway. The Superpro shims are made to easily slot in without removing the bracket. That's all there is to it.. hope it helps save forking out $200

Same wheels I want for my ute but they're out if stock in the offsets I'm after

It should be ok. I think you mean 245/40R18 tyre though? According to calculator the wheel will stick out 28mm further but the top of the tyre will only stick out 9mm due to the slight stretch of a 245/40 on a 9.5 rim.

I've had ATR2s for 40,000ks on my ute, still 50-60% left on them except for camber wear on the fronts. I find the performance in the wet to be ok, especially for the price. In the dry with 40,000 kms on them they still perform really well. I've got Bilstein shockies on the ute and love throwing it into corners at speed. My new wheels will have ATR2s, I can't justify spending considerably more for other tyres when these perform (and last) as well as they do.

Measured clearances today using weighted fishing line taped to the guard. This is for my standard height ute on factory 17s and the distance is from the rim to outer guard. Front Passenger side: 16mm Driver side: 35mm Rear Passenger side: 54mm Driver side: 75mm It appears the body is offset ~20mm in comparison to the chassis, I wasn't surprised as this is a common problem. Just something else to keep in mind when chasing perfect offsets, I guess not much can be done about it besides guard work on one side lol.

Deshi's ute is close to what I'd aim for: With this is mind 18x9.5 +22 will sit 10mm in so should be ok. 18x10 -1 they sit the same so will need rolled guards for 275, 265 may just fit otherwise.

Heres some input with pics: Safe option 20x9.5 275/30 +20. They look like they still sit in a fair bit, maybe +15 would be better for the safe option. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/76399-fg-offsets-and-tyre-questions/?p=1511036 Rolled guards option 19x9.5 -15 with 275. That's +20 rim with a 35mm spacer making it -15. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/76399-fg-offsets-and-tyre-questions/?p=1504044 After finding those pics I think I'll consider 18x10 -01 on the rear for my scenario. With slightly stretched 265/35 they should clear the rear guard without rolling hopefully

FG ute 18*9.5 +22 front with 245/40R18 18*10 +22 rear with 265/35R18 Would there be any issues with this fitment? I know that 275/35 (or wider) is probably more preferable on the rear but the specific tyres I'm choosing don't come in that size (Achilles ATR 2) I'm also considering stretching the 245/40 onto a 10" front rim but undecided at this stage.. the wider the rim the better they look

Mine switch off when I lock the car.

His ute most likely has centre muffler with single 3" inlet and twin 2.25 outlets over the diff and into a twin inlet twin outlet muffler. I am about to go down same path and planning to remove rear muffler and replace with twin hot dogs, it should require the least modification and with hotdogs hopefully it shouldn't drone