RZR

May I suggest that you get a line level converter, and hook it up to the speaker output from your ICC. Run that straight into your new headunit using and RCA to 3.5mm converter and put it in the aux channel of your headunit (if it has one!!) Then you are free to use the old speaker wire that is already run for your new headunit, or run even new stuff if you feel that way inclined....although I would suggest that you run the new speaker wire when you get your new amp...

So the box is in and looks sweet as, especially from in the cabin. Sounds ridiculously clear too....much clearer than the sealed box I had the sub in before. System as is, with sub and line level converter from stocko head unit got me 101.6db before the signal started to distort. Hoping for a little bit more clarity and oomph when I put in a new head unit! 100+db is more than enough for me haha. From the boot: Inside the cabin: Only oversight is the back seats take a little more force to close than I anticipated, as there is a facing plate between the seat and the wall (as you can see in the photos)... Now to finish off the false floor!

this is interesting reading...what kind of power would I be pushing then if I ran a 110mph? (bit slow I know ) can anyone explain a rough conversion?

So I have approx 217 rwkw 6spd manual BF (exhaust and tune, nothing else)...first ever time I ran at the drags I pulled a 14.3s ET cuz my turbo hose clamp decided to let go.... This time around I fixed it up, and ran the following: (I am on the right) Launches are my let down actually...tried loading it up with the handbrake, and it worked ok, except my stock clutch didnt always like it...If I can get my 60ft time down to 2.2s I'd be stoked :D Super happy with a 109.93 MPH though!! EDIT: this time and MPH is better than a mates SS commy with an exhaust and OTR (13.6 @ 104mph), and better than another mates toyota chaser that has about the same power, but is lighter (13.5 @103mph)...

Yeh its not too bad...so far mine has cost me: $40 in wood $60 in carpet $20 in carpet glue and then little bits and peices like speaker terminals for the box and wires for the inside. Inside has been carpetted now:

Try this link: http://www.mediafire...ap00ggmfd2q3h0o edit: just tried it, should work fine. File name is BF SUB BOX, and there is a 3d model in the model space page and a 2d layout in paperspace (if you know how to operate cad haha) Double edit - Make sure that you double check the dimensions for your boot. This only just fit (with a little bit of grinding the back corner of the box (see photos!)) without any of the carpet in. If you are keeping existing carpet you will need to change it. The cad file also doesnt have the little dog in the top, that was an 'on the fly modification', but can post measurements if you are too lazy to pull off the carpet and get them yourselves haha

and you could probably fit 2 x 13's in there...you would have to recline them a little bit though...and the box would have to protrude further than mine for more volume, unless you went for sealed. this should go hard and rattle the tits off my boot.

I just used a good old tapemeasure and some cardboard to make sure it fit I did have to grind a little bit off the box though, as I made it symmetrical and the boot has a little raised bit :/ oh well.

I also have an autocad file with the shape and box design which I can post here if people wish to try and replicate...

So I managed to pick up a cheap option audio 12" sub and 2 amps from a mate. I have gone with a dual slot ported box, running up the front of the boot near the seat. There is a perspex window in the back of the box so that the back of the sexy looking sub can be seen when the seats are down. I chose to mount the amps flush with a false floor, but will end up changing so the floor has a hinge so I can get the spare tyre out semi easily haha. Have gone with a purple lighting scheme too...photos dont do the colour justice, it looks pink. But trust me, its definitly purple Thoughts? Suggestions? Its still a work in progress, will keep posting photos. Has taken me 3 weeks to get to this stage, as I can only really work on in on weekends. Amps + colour False floor: Carpetted floor: Box progress: In car:

My run to work is short aswell...probably under 5kms. Engine will get up to temp just as I get to work. I manage to stay off boost though. However my fuel consumption is still up at 20-24L/100kms... I am actually looking at getting a DRZ-400 to run around on when its not raining etc, which should be stacks cheaper!

I have a bf, and mine makes exactly the same noise, and mine has a little bit of play aswell, but as explained by someone else further up there is a bit of play that will be taken up by oil pressure...And as said earlier, if the wheel isnt scraping on the housing, then you should be fine.

mmhm, yeh. that's what im going to have to do aswell...only thing is all of the doors except the front passenger will lock , and will stay locked when they are 'pulled'. Its quite wierd...and im hesitant to take it to ford here, as they dont have the best rep...

Sooo, front passenger door will not actually lock when I lock the car, and will consequently unlock the rest of the car when the handle is pulled. Does anyone have an idea on what it may be? (my thoughts are actuator...) How would I problem solve and narrow down what it would be? thanks

Thanks, have contacted him via email (calls during work hours for me are hard to make)