tofski

Going thru this with a mates FGX ute , there is no loom in ute but sedans have them , you have to pick up + - and vid signal off the back off the ICC screen , can't remember which plug and pins, info on fordfroum.com.au in wiring diagrams wiring section. You have to activate the camera via forscan or IDS as well.

Spoke with Haltech , they said that the factory traction should be off and remain off when the plug in pro was installed so utilising their traction strategy. He suggested might have the wrong can strategy in the ecu setup . The car is an bf F6 with zf and I did set it as that, the only other option is bf XR6 turbo zf , not sure if they would be different but I'll give it a go once I have the car back from the tuner where it's at ATM . Problem is that I have an ic7 in place of the original cluster and that doesn't show the traction control light.

Thanks for yr advice mate I haven't contacted pcmtech yet as it's not their product. Might be a way to get an answer as to this day I have spoken to a few Haltech dealers and tuners and had no resolution. I'll contact Haltech first directly regarding this as it should have been sorted out during their development of the product. Thanks

The Haltech does not seem to have any adjustment to the factory control , it uses speed inputs from abs sensors to reduce spark or fuel or both to reduce engine speed , not sure if it utilises the brakes like the factory control thru the abs. That is my problem as the factory control ( from what I researched) applies brakes until it's turned off and has nothing to do with factory pcm as it's not there once Haltech is installed , as you suggest the editing has to be done in the traction control module itself I just want not to disable the abs module completely as I want to retain the abs .

Don't know if anyone has sorted this out before I'm running a Haltech elite plug in and have set up the traction control strategy in that . Issue I have is the the standard traction control is still active unless I turn it off via button . I have a ic7 in place of original cluster so I don't even know if she std traction is in or off. I know it's related to the abs module and controls the brakes as the std pcm is not there .I still want to retain abs so don't want to just remove the fuse. Is there a way to disable the std traction control or a way to set it to off as default so I wouldn't have to turn it off every time I start the car. As I have forscan this way would be ideal

https://imgur.com/gallery/bm4YFmd Hopefully the link to the dyno works for you guys. Yes has stock head and cams apart from oversize vales and upgraded springs , stock crank also . Other mods oil pump , timing chain ,girdle ,rods and pistons etc only driven it today but so far very responsive.

Not worried , done a co2 coolant test right after the run and come up negative . Whatever happens now only time will tell , either way will be fun in the process.

Don't think it pushed past the gasket as it was doing 40psi same motor setup on c16 when it was the ETM f6 back in the day , I think the pwr expansion tank and cap are a bit dodgy , Gonna still push the limits 👍

When that happened we pushed to see what the turbo would do and even after that no probs even with more pulls ,re the timing I'll have to ask the tuner , that said I won't be pushing the limits of the turbo all the time hard enough to hook up with 500kw on the street.

Not sure why that occurred, motor is running full copper 40thou head gasket with oringed block and head . Also 14mm head studs down to 150ftlb . Been fine after that run so see what happens.

Maxed out at that power 33psi @6350rpm, comes on quick and that's what I wanted for a Streeter. I'll post a dyno once I got it.

Sorry Don't have one yet . I'm not on Facebook either but if you click on the link you should be able to open it.

Finally got some results for the turbo https://m.facebook.com/JustEngineManagement/videos/chriss-bf-xr6t-packing-a-punch-with-744rhkw-997rhhp-33psi-on-united-e85-built-4l/523675099691340/

Yeah got it sorted after lots of head scratching and there was 2 issues 1st issue the ecu was not recognising the diff ratio so we reset the ecu completely and loaded newer firmware onto it . After that was sorted we could only write to the ecu thru the obd port when we pumped more than 15v into it but could read from it at lower voltage 2nd issue -Figured out it was a bad solder joint on the can wires at the obd port where previously had an alarm wire soldered to it . Pretty sure the 1st issue was caused by the 2nd since all this started happening when the alarm was removed. Been good since the joint got re soldered

The setup was sold before I got the car and the rear housing is standard garret 1.06 The whole idea behind this setup is to be more streetable with similar top end as a gtx42 and spool closer to 35 frame turbo.

Something different , also heat management and did not want a 6 boost as I wanted good low boost control being more for the street . The car did have a high mount and did run a 9.40 in a past life with a gt45

Getting custom kit Atm with full divided low mount made up with g40 1150 turbo. Going on a built motor with kelford b cams . Hopefully will get the kit soon so we can test it

I have swapped the BCM and the problem is still there Thinking might be the HIM as it has input hs can to pcm and hs can to cluster The odd thing is I can't always connect to the network (ecu) thru obd port ,says is connected to dongle but not ecu. The other thing when I can connect with forscan it sometimes cant / doesn't recognise the pcm,him,abs modules while other times it does. I can on forscan dashboard also pick up speed and tach via pcm but have no signal via cluster for speed and not even a gauge option for rpm via instrument cluster. I know that the mechanical connection of the hscan is ok as the water temp , oil temp and boost works on thethey are also transmitted via hs can like the speed and rpm . So is got me to a point where it might be EPROM issue also Last time I replaced the cluster and had it reprogrammed to the car the speed and rpm worked till I disconnected the battery to do some work on the car and when reconnected th gauges weren't working again. Recently I took It down to my tuners to get ghost cams done via pcm tech( dash not working) but the tuner could not write to the ecu and told me to check pin 13 on obd port . When I picked up the car the speed and tach worked. I got home and checked the connection by unplugging plugs and it turns out connection from pcm to pin 13 is ok But when I put it all back together it stopped working again . Not sure if it's an eeprom problem but this is past my diagnostic experience.

Hi Still can not sort this issue out . Can someone recommend an auto Electrican that specialises in canbus with Ford's in Sydney Metro area .

Hi Old thread I know I have been looking into buying the 12 pin plug or loom so I can finish reverse camera install in my FG mk1 ute Does anyone know where I can get these from as most mobs want to sell me a complete kit which I don't need.

Hi I have posted this on AFF forum before haven't gotten sorted yet My Speedo and tacho stopped working in my fg GS mk1 . It was after I done a parasitic test for battery drain and removed the aftermarket alarm that was in the car. When I use the obd dongle I can read both via torque pro. The cruise control still works and when the fuel DTE comes on on the cluster it suddenly starts counting from 80km down really quickly . Checked the wiring for the HS Can between cluster and obd port and it's all good . Then I done a cluster sweep with isd and checked out all good (Speedo and tach swept) . I even replaced the cluster with another one and problem still persists. All fuses checked ok Has anybody had this happen before and what could be the problem ? Any help would be appreciated as it sucks not having a Speedo or tach .

Other mods include wasregate mod ,4' nizpro exh ,injectors pump,4' intake from plazmaman and cooler ,tuned by cv ,could got more power but wanted to keep it safe and traction is hard to get on the street as it is even with semi slicks .its a ex chaser bf 2 std motor unopened with 110k kms ,btw its my wife's car with 2 baby seats in the back .To make good reliable power all you need is remove all the restrictis as possible ,make the motor breathe easy and power will come after it all about efficiency.

I installed a nizpro coller and adapted a proccess west throttle body relocation kit The result was 360rwkw @ 15 psi std motor n nizpro 4 inch exh ,just my experience. Both coolers are good enough for easy 400kw just depends on which look u like.

Hi I ended up buying it of the original poster ,as for fittment it is tight through the cat area and over diff cradle ,it expands a fair bit so you have to adjust it hot since it won't knock when its cold/warm takes a few goes ,sounds awesome 100 timed better than the xforce 3.5 that I had before and no drone with a deep note .This is on a bf2 btw it made 360rwkw on 15 psi,hope this helps

Ended up being loose bolts holding flex plate ,flex plate was rooted too must be a common problem ,serviced the zf while at it ,thanks for everyone's responses.