pieman18

Hey all A bit of a random question… the plastic bonnet scoop insert on my territory turbo flew out while I was driving the other day, the bonnets are quite rare and very expensive with little to no hope of actually getting it in my colour… Is there any way I can get the scoop insert dimensions from anywhere? I’m thinking Of trying to get it made or 3D printed somewhere… Thanks guys [emoji106]

Hey all Has anyone here ever done their own engine mount change? Or, have any tips they can share? Theres not a lot of info on how to do it on the territory’s, especially the AWD’s and/or turbos. Ive had a quick look while doing other front end fix ups and it Seems like a real pain in the ass, but if it’s worth it, I’ll give it a crack rather than pay someone to do it! Ive already got a pair of mounts to use, and I’ve got the time, just need the know how. Cheers guys

Bought from auctions mate [emoji51]

Hey guys I’ve picked myself up a pretty cheap territory ghia turbo, and I’m not gonna lie, she runs pretty rough, needs a bit of work to get her back in tip top. I have one major concern that needs addressing. I’ve done a bit of a service on the car so far: spark plugs, rocker cover gasket and spark plug seals, new motor oil and filter, new transmission fluid. I will do the transfer case and front and rear diff fluids on the weekend as well as power steering fluid and coolant flush. My concern is, when I turn the car on it idles pretty nicely while the car is in ‘park’. Once I shift into drive the whole car vibrates until I take off, after which it settles down. Once I stop again, at the lights or whatever, the vibration comes back. Would I be right in thinking it may be dodgy engine and/or gearbox mounts? Or could it be something much worse? I’m trying to learn and fix as much as I can before I take it to get a roady before rego and get slogged a small fortune to fix lots of little niggles. Thanks guys!

I’m in the process of selling it, so trying to get rwc, etc. Not ideal timing [emoji23] Thanks for your help anyway

Yeah that’s what I was hoping to avoid Ahh well...

Potential relay issue? Or more like a single wiring issue? I’ve since discovered the rear drivers window will wind down from all switches, but only up from the master switch, not the single door switch Wiring problems are a little over my head

Hey guys So I’ve got a Ford territory daily driver at the moment and there’s an issue with the passenger side window which I’m struggling to diagnose. The window is currently fully up, When you hit either up or down on the switch from either drivers door switch or passenger door switch you can hear the window motor work when it tries to wind up, but not a sound when you try to wind the window down. I thought it may have been the motor so Grabbed one from the wreckers, same problem. I then bought a new window assembly with motor and regulator, removed the old assembly and chucked the new one in, still the same issue! What could be causing the window to seemingly wind up normally, but nothing when you wanna wind it down? Could it be both switches somehow on the fritz? All other windows work perfectly from all switches. Any ideas would be very helpful! Cheers guys

Cheers guys I thought I was correct the first time, but Turns out my boost gauge is faulty anyway so gotta wait for a newy now, ahh well

Hey guys Just a quick one on where to get a vacuum source for my boost gauge. I originally had the boost gauge connected in here to this bung circled in green. I just had the car tuned last weekend and I noticed the tuner disconnected the boost gauge line (red arrow) and reinstalled that tee fitting and left an open end with that short piece of vacuum hose to the left. If I join the open ended hose to the boost gauge hose will the gauge read correctly? All it needs is manifold pressure is that correct? Cheers guys

Fg mkii I’ve tried the battery disconnect thing, I’ll just get the tuners to run a test over it, check the battery and whatnot I also broke the Ariel wire at the bottom of the unit .......whoopsie Having a stinker

Had the battery on charge for 2 days

Hey guys So I’ve installed a couple of gauges over the weekend. Removed the ICC nice and easily, gained power from an accessories 12v source on the loom that powers the ICC (part of the headlight switch fuse) and earthed off the metal frame behind the ICC. Gauges light up and work fine, but when I re-installed the ICC the system comms fault flashes up on the dash and the screen lights up with the ‘Ford’ logo, then it goes blank. No radio or heater/aircon, but the lights still flick on with the headlights. The car has previously had its origin ICC stolen and the unit in it is a replacement. Any ideas wtf is going on? Aside from teeing off one power source, everything else is untouched Cheers

Hey guys Got a quick question regarding an adapter for a mechanical oil pressure gauge I’ve got an auto meter mechanical oil pressure gauge to install (with copper lines), I just need advice on what adapter to use Is this the right adapter for the mechanical gauge or is this only applicable to the electrical oil pressure gauge, or good for both? Cheers guys

Hey all So just before lockdown 2.0 I did all this work to my car before the booking I had at the tuners the following week. That got postponed as expected so the car has been basically sitting in my garage for the last 8 weeks. Ive driven it to and from the shops a couple of times to keep it fresh but haven’t and won’t hit boost or drive it hard at all until it’s tuned properly. What I did notice though is that it rev hangs a lot more than before the mods, which is made much more noticeable with the 4 inch exhaust My question is, when it gets tuned, will that be/can that be tuned out? It’s really annoying already. It’s still got injectors and a fuel pump to go in and I’ll also have to get the exhaust tweaked to reduce the drone it has at this stage Cheers everyone