demon1300

Any of you guys using oil restrictors? Kind of in 2 minds about it. Garrett recommend if the pressure exceeds 65psi at any stage that an oil restrictor must be used. The male AN fitting supplied with my oil line kit is straight through, so being -4 is 4mm in ID. Unless I'm missing something, that's waaaay too much!

Yeah I get that, just was hoping there wasn't any large galleries where it would pool near the switch... I guess a rags the go and crack it and see [emoji3]

I grabbed a stealth kit off eBay the other day. Aeroflow nylon braid (wanted it over steel braid) with earls filter. I was hoping to put it in this weekend as well as my oil pressure sender for my cobalt gauge. U guys reckon I could crack the oil pressure switch without dumping the oil? It was only serviced 200kms ago... I reckon it should be OK as long as its been sitting overnight?

I would have thought any decent cooler has power gains due to spark advance with lower charge temps.

Hawless, here are some night shots. I'll get some daytime ones tomorrow. Remember you can customize every colour aspect of each gauge eg. The background, the reading, the line colour and also the unit of measure colour. Pretty sweet. First pic is with the cobalts at normal driving level: Here's one with them flat out (way to bright for driving): A 4up gauge:

What about an FG? Same rules apply? I'd be keen to get my 2 cobalts to dim with the dash rather than using a pot.

No they don't change as there is no accessory option. Its def not bright at all being oled. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

So does that mean we can't buy them from the US? If not, why not? What's the X4 model for the FG? Why have we gotta keep paying this sh*t "Australia" tax and nearly paying double the US counterparts even when our currency is nearly parity??! The X4's can be had over there for less that $330 US. Seems like a rort & cash grab to me....

Yeah, its definitely an FG thing which is what the guy had whose post you were commenting on. Just didn't want him popping off the battery terminal after each fill and wondering why his car always runs like sh*t! Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

You can reset the average speed and lph figures from the dash! I do it after every fill. Unless its just an FPV thing?You also realise that disconnecting and reconnecting the battery also has other bad implications around the computer re-learning mixtures and driving habits. Not something I'd be doing every tank or regularly. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Why wouldn't you just use the dash to reset all the trip and economy figures?Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Yeah the dm100 touch is the one I have. check up a few posts of my triple gauge holder. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

If the aeroforce stuff is anything like the plx I have then yes you can chose between metric and imperial. Just on that same topic, have you looked at the plx touch series? Far more versatile with display and its a full color OLED screen. I love mine! I've got autometer analogue boost and oil (prefer old school analogue for those) and then have water temp and inlet air temp as a 2-way on the plx. I just love that you can have up to 4 of the 40 odd OBD2 pid's monitored with several different gauge faces, peak holds, warnings etc. You can setup all your own colors etc. They're fantastic!! Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Guys what are the nolathanes like in general? My stock ones are gone and am going to get them replaced before my warranty runs out in 2 months. I was thinking I'll get them to put in a super pro comfort. Thoughts? I didn't want to put stock back in, as the cars only done 25k and its toast already. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Just spent around $500 @ waxit on a polisher, polish angel products, clay magic etc. Daniel there was very helpful over the phone and recommended the above for my silhouette baby! Now just gotta get a nice weekend to spend 2 days detailing! I'll be sure to get some before and afters. On a side note, they've got some gold wax on their site which is 29k a pot!! Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Well I must admit, I fail.... After having my PLX and boost working for a few weeks, dropped my car off to my local dealer today to be serviced and have them put on the Speco sandwich plate for the oil pressure sender whilst they were at it (figured it would be better waiting till this service so I didn't have to change the oil for nothing). So I get a phone call in the early arvo saying that it won't fit!! Turns out the stupid FPV's have a sandwich plate already on them as an oil cooler which has water lines connected! The speco sandwich plate won't fit ontop of it, as you couldn't put the filter on (hits the K frame). I didn't think twice about looking myself and just figured the FPV stuff was the same as any turbo... I guess not.... So for those of you with an FG FPV, don't try and use a sandwich plate for your oil pressure sender, learn from my mistake and just use a T piece from the block. D'OH!

Yeah my FG F6 does it also..... Had it since basically new, 300kms on the clock. Its done 25k now and its still the same! I've hammered ford about it and eventually got one of their engineers to drive the car. He said its completely normal. Its really bad when cold and does it occasionally when warm. 2nd is the only problem child though. I've done a fair bit of reading on the US forums as the TR6060 is used in the vetts and chargers etc. They all recommend Redline D4 atf and reckon that it nearly completely eliminates it. I've had ford change the oil twice under warranty so was going to try this next. Anyone else had experience with it? Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

OK. So I fitted gauges and got most of the wiring done (except the sensors) on the weekend. Removal of the ICC want actually not too bad! Wiring was a bitch though, spent ages taping up the gauge loom and placing in the standard cable paths with spiracord. Ended up using the engine start button for constant 12v and earth and then tapped into a brown wire at the top of the ICC for the accessory wire. It was the only wire in the near vicinity that I could use. Only issue now is the dimming as bloody hell the gauges are bright at night! Today I took a look back through this thread and realised that F6FURY was using a brown wire behind the cluster so I decided today after work to pull the cluster out and investigate further. Now using a multimeter, I am unable to find a 12v accessory wire that reduces as you dim the lights/ICC from the dash!? Ideally I'd like to do this so it all dims as one unit, rather than having a separate pot for the 2 gauges only. Obviously this dimming is controlled from dash, so figured I could just tap into this circuit... Appears I was wrong.... or at least I can't find it without a wiring schematic. My question for F6FURY is do your gauges dim with the dash? On a side note, it was a major PITA to try and fit the PLX controller box under the dash. Ended up velcro'ing it in the section to the left of the steering column. I await some feedback before I put all the trims back, lol. Cheers, Rob Sent from my A500 using Tapatalk

Hahaha, what gave it away? Was it the triflow or the loctite? It's another of my vices I'm pretty passionate about. I don't know what's more expensive though, the helis or the cars! Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Sorry for the thread revive, but I too would also like to know this for some gauge installing this weekend. Would really help me out if someone could point me in the right direction for some cluster removal instructions. Cheers, Rob

Hahaha. I did try the gauges in all different positions but in the end settled with this arrangement simply because it's from most to least importance. I got the PLX just to watch trivial things like water temp and the like, I'd prefer to know about oil pressure and boost in my immediate periphery. Sorry guys... It'd mean I'd need to pull it all out again and dremel the middle opening. Might take a stab at starting the wiring this weekend. Has anyone got some decent ICC wiring references so that I can get the dimmer voltage wires etc from them? I'd really love to control the to autometers using the ICC dimming control like factory. The PLX should be pretty basic just needing power and OBD2 connector. In saying that, has anyone had a test light on the cigarette lighter 12v feed whilst craking over? Could do myself I guess I'm just lazy. I need to find a constant 12V source once ignition is on to keep the auto's happy for calibration. I'm still not sure if I'm better off just going the jiffy box route for wiring and fusing, and keep the dimming separate on a stand alone pot. Maybe I should talk to an auto elec and see what his thoughts are. Cheers, Rob

Well, my plx gauge arrive today! I must say I'm pretty impressed. Quality bit of kit. I've got it all ready to go to be installed (as soon as I find the time). Only thing I had to modify was the threads on the cobalts (cut as they were too long) and dremel out the base of the ICC top so that the plx serial connector could pass through. Super stoked at the setup though. Should look great and be extremely functional on the F6!! [emoji3] I'll be sure to get some decent shots when its installed. Cheers, Rob Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Just got my tripple gauge holder from SS inductions today. Pretty impressed I must say. The 2 x autometer cobalts (boost and oil press) I ordered from the US also got here today, so I'm nearly ready to get fitting. For those of you who are after some autometer electrics, just get them on Amazon. Cheapest price anywhere and also crazy cheap for shipping (around $12 from memory). I'm just waiting on a PLX DM-100 touch to come in to make up the final of the three. I figured I'd like to do what I can now, so am going to source some nuts and washers for the cobalts, so I can cut the threads back and fit them to the cups. I've also seen another howto on here which creates a jiffy box for fusing & a pot for the dimming, but was hoping to just piggyback off the stock wiring to keep it much simpler and just use an in-line fuse for each gauge. Sounds like F6Fury's got the pic I'm after, although getting the cluster out sounds like a major PITA. Also that and I'm not super keen on splicing into my nice stock F6 loom What route have most of you guys gone? Jiffy box tapping off the cigarette lighter? I'd also noticed a few of you guys saying that your boost gauge in particular weren't calibrating correctly. In the autometer installation instructions, it states that you need to find a 12V supply that has power even whilst the car is cranking, so that the gauges can correctly calibrate. Without this, the gauge will be off. Only an issue with boost apparently. Also my oil pressure sender only gets about 3 threads down into the speco sandwich plate.... Not sure why, but it looks like the sender is tapered? They're both 1/8" NPT so they should be compatible. Are yours all the same? Cheers, Rob

They ended up changing it for the speco and it only cost me $66 bux. Happy days. Didn't even realise but the oil cooler adapter was thermostatic, so would only open at a certain temp. No good for gauges. On another note, my gauges from the US (Cobalt boost and oil pressure) arrived today as well as my tripple gauge holder from SS inductions. Got the oil pressure sender out and tried it in the sandwich plate, I reckon I only get around 3 threads in! Seems to either be diff pitch, or tapered.... How far are your oil pressure senders going into the plates? They're both spec'd at being 1/8" NPT, so should be a direct fitment.

Guys, just picked up my oil filter sandwich plate today from Bursons.... Stupid idiots ordered the wrong thing (ordered speco 547-57) and here's what they gave me - http://derale.com/products/filtration/engine2013-10-28-09-53-27459934969/sandwich-adapters/engine-oil-filter-relocation-kit-1-2-npt-ports-with-13-16--16-engine-thread-size-detail Looks like I'll be taking it back unless I could just use it? Problem will be that this directs flow, not just allowing something to "tap" into the existing gallery. All the other sandwich plates I've seen for gauges are almost all hollow. Thinking I'll just get my money back and order one of these (unles you recommend to go with the speco?) - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Oil-filter-sandwich-plate-adaptor-universal-M18-M20-M22-3-4-turbo-feed-pressure-/171220173038?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27dd8480ee&_uhb=1 Thoughts? Cheers, Rob