demon1300

Na, they even hold 2nd no worries. If your gassing the tits off it in first you get what you deserve...Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

I'm wrapped with my nexen N6000's on my rear. They easily hold the 350 odd rwkw in the dry and were only $145 fitted each in 245/35/19. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Sounds like I was bang on [emoji6] Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Forget the PTE and Garrett, just go straight for an EFR Borg Warner. They're the best by far when it comes to outright power and good spool. They are megga pricey though and can be difficult to fit. Highly worth looking at if your into changing turbos. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

As soon as I went to CAT600 bushes, my tramp completely went away. It'll be diff cradle bushes for sure. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

You'd make my year if you could find it! [emoji106] Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

k31th, that's assuming I knew which earth wire the pwm circuit was on... The pot I was using was on the +ive side, not changing the earth potential like the factory pwm circuit does. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Because it's a pain in the ass when I want to change the brightness and have to pop out the fpv start button facial and dick around with a pot to get it right. It would be much nicer to just have them all dim together with the dash controls. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Guys, I've already built a pot and had been using it for months which worked perfectly. All of about $3-4 worth of jaycar components. Works great, its just not ideal. I had the ICC out for other reasons and really wanted to tie it into the illumination circuit of the factory loom. As you can see k31th, id already posted in that thread. There's nothing in there that talks about FG's, its all BA/BF info. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

I just wanna know how we can tap these illumination wires into the stock cluster dimming circuit. No one seems to know how to! I've searched everywhere and it seems that the pwm earth circuit has everyone beaten? Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

I've heard of a few people have issues with the Circle D's. I'd stick with the stock converter if I was you.

So after much hair tearing testing I think I've finally gotten to the bottom of the issue. Turns out a module in the cdplayer in the ICC goes bad and causes this sh*t popping/crackling. No testing of earths or otherwise was ever going to find the problem. http://www.aslautomedia.com.au are the guys to talk to if you have the above problem. Apparently its a pretty common fault with FG's! Hopefully this helps out someone else that's had the same frustrating experience.

Maybe timing chain tensioner guide top has broken off and timing skipped a tooth or two? This is pretty common for these engines.

How much did it sting you for the single pump version?

So I put another earthing strap from the battery to the chassis and it hasn't fixed the issue at all. There are other threads on other forums of people with the same issue, no one appears to have a fix! I'm getting desperate guys, can someone knowledgeable on the fg's electrics help me out!?

It doesn't currently no...

So the PLX issue asside, here's the more annoying issue... I've managed to capture the crackling/popping that my car's begun doing and I'm really starting to get annoyed with it. This noise happens randomly & scares the crap out of me even with low volume.... Please remember that the car also has a battery relocation done using an oddssey style dry cell batt. Earth lead has been run back to the block and appears to test fine. Symptoms: * Has gradually gotten worse * Volume doesn't have to be up loud at all * Does occur even with Audio off, although not as much. In this vid: - Factory amp has been completely unplugged - Gauges & supply wires have been completely unplugged to eliminate them causing the noise I figured it was an earthing issue, but can't seem to find the problem. The fact that it does it when off also, maybe indicates that my ICC is toast?? Any ideas!? I'm about ready to take to the car with a pick axe! Any help guys help would be muchly appreciated! Cheers, Rob

The PLX controller has a 12v feed and then an ODB2 fly lead as an input. I'm using the same 12v source as the other 2 gauges, and they all share the same common earth. Both 12v and earth are taken off my push button start. I've completely isolated the power circuit in the vid though so its not power related. More like radio interference... I've got a crazy random loud pop occasionally also. Sounds like there is def an earth issue with the ICC. These pops/crackles happen even when the audio is off so not sure there? I'll get a vid up soon to show what I'm on about. Its hard to try an capture on vid though as its random.

Hi Guys, Got this weird issue which I'm not sure how to resolve... ANY help would be appreciated! Cheers, Rob

Please tell me all you guys/gals don't use public torrent trackers... There, that's something I hate.

I got quoted $155 ish fitted for sport 2's locally. $220 seems a bit rich...

Normally you can get the tom thumbs from autobarn

Fgx xr6t 310? They're 270 aren't they?

Good to know there are other fellow rotang lovers on here [emoji106]

Well done mate. You'll be used to it within a week and will be chasing more... Unfortunately 350 in these cars just doesn't feel that fast, or maybe that's just my opinion. I reckon around 420 on E85 is where its at [emoji6]