demon1300

Yeah cheers lads! Has def taken a while but the whole fam and house thing def takes precedence. Saw a peak of 574, but that was because we had a little boost spike [emoji44] I def didn't want to push it that hard without head studs etc. I'd reckon the pistons and rods would also be at their limits. Had some crazy variance with my wideband also which had us a little confused. The 4.9 connected to the haltech in the dump was reading crazy rich at like 10.5-10.7 and the one in the tail pipe was reading 12.0 It def wasn't that rich as it sounded crisp as. Was around 13degs at peak torque and feeding it back in to around 17 up top. So def still conservative on ethanol. I can seem to find if the plug-in can do a free air cal on the wideband?

Put it on the hubs at my mates shop and finally got to do some proper flex tuning with the haltech plug in in a controlled environment. Boost control is still being a little temperamental with the 50mm lite gate. The 60 will go on in due course with some head studs etc. Saw about 22-23psi and E60 in the end. Most of the benifits of ethanol are done by then anyway.

Yeah nice work Brad. Similar power to mine on that boost, although we haven't really dynoed on 98 yet. Made 510rwkw on 20psi (E85) with conservative timing.

Fuel supply for me is now: Aftermarket Industries surge (FS800-FV) with 2 x Walbro 520's in it. Am currently in the process of replacing the factory lines with -8 feed and -6 return. Currently have an FPR1200 which I've had for a while now, may end up changing that to an FPR2000 if needed. This setup is replacing the KPM 1000hp in tank setup, which consists of 2 x DW300's in the pot however it utilises factory lines and connectors etc. It does come with upgraded wiring which is nice, however I'll move to some 6mm stuff on the new system. I'd thought about going out of tank surge, however really don't like the idea of where they sit (boot or passenger chassis rail) and didn't really want all the legality/insurance headaches of it. Prefer the in tank stuff as its nice and quiet and seems to do the job well for the power levels I'm chasing. I got to 550rwkw on the KPM setup (stock bottom end), but it was really tapped out as the rail pressure was dropping considerably (logged via sensor in reg with Haltech plug&play). The pumps just couldn't keep up. I would have been well below that given that I'd not had the 1700x's as they were really compensating for the loss in pressure as we could just drive them harder. We decided not to go any further and make some fuel system changes to do it properly. At the time we've run a 4bar base pressure (58psi). If you're running injectors on the smaller side (1300's or below) you really need to crank up the pressure to drive them harder, however you really need the pumps to make it all work. Ideally, 3 or 4 bar base is where we want to be, although the ID's are brilliant in their capability to handle high pressures and not be too non linear. I wen't the x's due to their clean sheet design and the fact they basically flow more than the old ID2000's. They are mighty expensive though... We also had some boost control issues at that power, with a 50mm Turbosmart gate on a 6boost manifold. I put it down to me having a 1.02 Tial rear to keep it peppy with the manual and the fact that merge collector in the mani is quite hight. We'll cut it out flat as part of these changes, so that the gas has a better path and doesn't point directly at the turbine wheel, bypassing the gate. I've already got the 60mm GenV gate to go on, which should solve our issues. Even Kyle @ 6boost said that he never uses a 50mm gate on a 42 on a barra, his manifolds are more about packaging that outright pure design. Either way, I'm still impressed with it for the price. Dump is custom made 4" stainless, that meets to my older twin cat system from Nizpro. Oil restrictor is buit into the turbo's core, but I have added a turbosmart oil pressure reg on the turbo feed to make sure it's not over-pressurised. I have upgraded to the Atomic race oil pump so just didn't want to run the risk. As it stands, it's certainly more laggy than stock but no where near what people think it is. I'd have 15+ pounds of boost on board at 3200-3400 and that's not really in a propper state of tune (haven't tried any cam retard yet to bring it on sooner). We couldn't really experiment with boost control all that well as the gate was really giving us grief. Once the boost starts though, it's on pretty darn quick. Waaaaay more than you probably need on the street, although my tyres are really shot and need replacing. Roll on's @ 100+km/h just smoke the tyres, it can get a little hairy at times!! 😮 Let me know if you'd like to know any more 😎

I don't have the new G42-1450 but a GTX4202 in a manual FG, so can happily answer any questions you may have. I agree with most of the above, you'll need bigger injectors than 1050's. I ended up changing my ID1000's to the 1700x's so that I had plenty of headroom. In the end, the lines and dual pump KPM setup were the bottleneck, which is why it's easier to to start with a goal in mind and work towards that. Poor man pays twice [emoji6][emoji41][emoji108]

From memory you wind out the 02 sensor delay values so that once started, it takes ages to ever reach closed loop. Don't think you can disable it all together, unless you possibly disabled the narrow band O2 control? Either way, it gives you enough time to see what's going on before it goes to closed loop to correct the issue. Know where the setting is in HP, and can check tonight if you like. PCMTEC I'm not sure about. Edit - saw you were referring to @ idle, not start so am assuming it's warm when you've got the issue. Possibly look at disabling the O2 control maybe?

Put me down as a maybe at this stage Gaz. Had a baby 3 weeks ago, so just need to make sure everything is settled before I can leave the wifey alone with bub for a few days. I'm keen as though as I've missed way to many and it was such a good drive a few years back. FYI, for the VIC guys, we have pump E85 at the United on the freeway just before Wodonga if your wanting to stock up further north of the journey. I should know, I'm there every 280kms [emoji1787][emoji23] Will let you know as soon as I know as I've also gotta rip the spooly boi back off and put the bigger gate on, change the pump setup again and retune. Lots to do!!!

Yeah agreed, but unless it's a complete race engine then how much time is the engine really spending up there. Not much id say. I reckon dampening the harmonics and not pounding the bearings and rotating assembly are more important than AC and an alternator [emoji41][emoji108]

When I spoke to brad @ atomic about this very question, he didn't recommend it for the barras as they're very long stroke makes them quite bad for vibrations and harmonics. He recommended sticking with a standard balancer to keep the mass greater on the front of the crank. That and a heavy flywheel he said are a must. IMO I tend to agree and unless your Dion from Dynamite, turning engines to 10k rpm, the benefits are not worth the trade off...

Thanks Azza, being a Dad for the first time is definitely an experience!

Cheers Keith, been a chaotic few days that's for sure!

Spending time with my 2 day old son!! [emoji16][emoji1][emoji7]

I've got to say I agree with Jet. The street might be fine for just getting the car running after some hardware changes, but I'd never be really doing any power stuff on the street. It's too inaccurate and just plain dangerous with any decent power. There's just too many factors at play and quite frankly I don't want to go directly past go, to jail in the big house [emoji23] The real work should always be done on a calibrated tool that's repeatable run after run which nobody should dispute. One of my best mates just added a hub dyno to his arsenal and coming from a 4wd chassis dyno, the accuracy is mind blowing. We were really blown away with the repeatability of results and very finite changes you could actually see how the car was (or wasn't) responding. On a rolling road, they were often masked due to traction limitations, tire temperatures etc. I'm not surprised most shops now are going the hub route. It's always good to check a car on the street afterwards as after all, they dont live on the dyno and driveability is key. Again, hard to give anything on the street a big hit, as your either torching tyres or rolling on speeds that Mr Plod wouldn't be happy about.

Yeah this is for the bedroom, gonna get a 65" for the living [emoji6]

New LG C9 OLED [emoji3] Sooo good compared to the old pana plazma I had.