xr6boosted

I'm talking about the battery backup for the alarm, if you don't know then don't comment.

I know its optional but it does have an alarm with a siren etc running off the factory remote fob. So where is the battery for it located is all I am asking.

I need help on this as well, like it's location for starters lol

I have those gauges as well, the boost is spot on.. my only concern is the connection to constant 12v meaning they drain battery overnight.

Really appreciate the responses guys, gives me a direction for getting this resolved. My feeling was the battery was faulty from day 1 because the indicator has always said 'replace' from new. Have had it checked three times at supercheap who assure me the gadget they use to test it will pick up any faults and that's it perfectly fine. I'm still not convinced so I think the best option is to get a sparky check for an obvious drain and if there isn't one I will be back for a new battery under warranty. Thanks again, I will let you know how it turns out. Accident repair is a possible cause as I have found out it has received a nice nudge in the rear somewhere in its past life, apparently it likes a bit of rear nudging I am not going to judge but it's concerning none the less. A quick disconnect unit is a good idea, even as a theft deterrent so I will look into that as well. Cheers.

Hi guys, My battery is going flat if I leave my car for more than 24hours, 6 month old century 550cca battery and alternator have been checked and are both fine. I started to problem solve the issue by firstly unplugging my aftermarket constantly powered boost and volt gauges and that only made a slight improvement. Next I removed the lights from the boot and glove box and still nothing. I also had a faulty door actuator and thought that May be the fault so I replaced that and still no improvement. I have even tested not arming the alarm overnight to see if that helps but when I start the car the following day I am still seeing a drain of 0.7v at least.. It's better but still draining to the extent of a few days causing a flat battery. I don't have a multimeter which is obviously the next step to start pulling fuses but do you guys happen to have any ideas of common battery drains on these vehicles? Thanks.

So can you put your foot flat to the floor yet? I've been too busy/lazy to get under my car but doing exactly what you described and just backing off from full throttle to avoid the issue for now. Its going in for a diff leak fix and brake line recall in early Jan so I will have the wastegate actuator checked out then.

Hey Frankie, Thanks for the extra info on the wastegate actuator, I'm going to swap out boost solenoid anyway ($50)..and then the actuator will be my next stop if the issue is still there for sure.

I have the exact same issue in terms of the 10psi overboosting followed by fuel cut and mine has done 145,000 BA auto. My next item on the agenda to fix the issue is a new boost solenoid, it seems like the issue only started for me when I sprayed WD-40 through the solenoid as per the recommendation on this forum. Every time I take the solenoid out now and try another round of WD-40 it seems to fix it slightly but then it slowly comes back again. I have also replaced plugs and coils, so a new solenoid is the next logical step. Let us know how you get on.. I will let you know if a new solenoid fixes mine.

It could be worse, we could be driving WRXs and RX7's.. just imagine how unfairly those guys will be targeted.

Meanwhile Harley Davidsons can be 160db.

The most painful thing about kings across all vehicles is that their rear springs sit higher than the front, you have to mix and match as per the above post. Whoever determines the spring heights at King's must be wearing one shoe.

Mate I think it is a fair enough question, two cars for whatever reason wanting to swap transmissions. I wouldn't want to be the person doing the labour that's for sure. From what I understand the ZF will be the most difficult to swap into a manual or older 4spd car.. Otherwise I would be all over it myself. I'm also looking into 6spd manual conversion for my 4spd auto dunga but the stars and galaxies will have to align for that to ever happen. Like for example a plane crashes next to my house and on board is a half cut BF 6 spd manual and an unconscious transmission mechanic in the front seat. Anyway let us know how you get on, for me the whole concept is only worthwhile for a gem of a car that just happens to have the wrong tranny.

Sorry to dig up an ancient thread but I also have leaking rear diff seal - How much work is involved in replacing the rear seal? Possible to do yourself or otherwise anyone know what sort of labour cost I will be looking at? Thanks guys.

My BA also has rust under one side of the boot drainage channel, haven't ford heard of rust protection FFS!

Its worse over at rexnet.com.au trust me!

I have the same issue, mine started to die at 100% throttle over 4000rpm.. If I back off it goes again. I replaced spark plugs, it fixed it for a day or so then the problem returned. So on the weekend I replaced coil packs as well, now it's fine for 1st and 2nd gear WOT and dies after the shift to third only WTF!

that's about 10 times more complicated than I was hoping.. what does a workshop charge for this as a ball park?

Yeah but surely the annoucement will shatter any existing brand confidence, I can't imagine many people lining up for a new falcon knowing production will be stopped in just over 2 years time. An earlier post summed it up well but they could have handled this (along with many other things) far better, transition to a new export model without the need for mass exidos. I feel for the 2500 workers but in fairness if the business model simply doesn't stack up it's difficult to justify keeping the doors open. Ford Australia just needs to let Ford USA runs things here IMO. Anyway I can tell you the real winner besides Expensive Daewoo is VW - $30billion profit thanks to Big data driven supply chain innovations, but hey Ford Australia management wouldn't have a clue what any of that means.

that's what I thought too.. Also based on previous experience with kings, they tend to sit lower in the front and never seem quite low enough at the rear. A 20mm drop in the rear would be ideal to match where the front currently sits. I'm getting diff bushes done anyway and was thinking a pair of SL or SSL might have to go in at the same time. Hey if I find I have made a terrible mistake and it's dragging it's ass like a Bankstown/Lakemba SSS pulsar, I could always put some SL in the front to fix it up. Thanks guys.

Because the front is already lower than the rear, I just want to even it out.

My BA is standard shocks and springs all round, I just want to flatten the rear end slightly without going to town replacing everything. Has anyone gone SSL springs in the rear and left the front standard?

A new set of plugs fixed mine on the weekend, I also noticed a couple of the coil packs were missing that rubber bit placed on top to hold them down under the plastic cover. If the problem returns, I will be replacing coil packs for sure as they looked like original factory items. Can anyone confirm if factory BA coil packs are 'Visteon' brand?

Mate I have the exact same issue on mine, about to replace the coils and plugs as well.. will let you know how it goes.

No but that's an idea..