xr6boosted

Just picked up an ELM32 wifi obd2 dongle and running it via iOS dash command app, works a treat!

Not yet no.

Usual symptoms including fuel cut, installed a boost gauge to see what was happening. It was hitting 10psi and beyond, then fuel cut.. I started with plugs, coils and solenoid clean. Snapped rod before I could get to the actuator.. obviously it's a bitch of a job and I've been putting it off. Not sure if I have the emotion energy right now to take it all back apart just to shorten the arm by a few mm.

I've done a fair bit to my car lately including new headliner, re-gapping front bar, front bar respray, 19inch wheels, matte black decals, power window regulator, rust removed from boot channels and today new turbosmart wastgate actuator and boost control solenoid.

The instructions mentioned something about 2mm preload.. could it be that the flapper arm isn't quite short enough and therefore leaving the wastegate slightly open?

The stock one wasn't working at all, I went the 7psi one hoping it would be equivalent or at least better than nothing. I must have an air leak somewhere, will redo all pipes and hoses. Im done working on the actuator, will have to be fiddled with when it goes for a tune. Thanks for the responses.

I had significant overboost on standard BA, eventually snapped a rod as a result. Now I have a BF block and just swapped out the standard wastegate actuator for a Turbosmart 7psi actuator and also a new boost control solenoid from ford. Firstly, this is an absolute pain in the ass job! however I did eventually (after about 8hrs) get it done without taking the dump or turbo off. There are a few things to make your life easier like decent long nose pliers, circlip hooks and I even picked up a mirror with an LED on it to see what I was doing on the flapper arm. I gave up trying to fit a new circlip so I just went with an R clip instead.. Seems secure. Anyway, questions for anyone with a Turbosmart actuator; - Did you notice more noise with it fitted? Mine seems to make far more turbo noise now, I've checked for leaks and everything seems secure, it's making boost okay. - Secondly, I set the length of the flapper arm to suit the length of the standard actuator.. Is this correct? It doesn't seem to be limiting boost like it should, it's better than before but still eventually overboosts, maybe the arm length needs further adjusting? If so I'll probably just flash tune and have it done then. The amount of extra noise is significant, just want to check if others experienced the same thing. Thanks.

Hi All, My BA was sold me with no key for the alarm siren, I've decided to swap it out for a $20 aftermarket siren so I will at least have a siren with a key to it. Just wanting to identify the 3 existing alarm siren wires - black, red and white. Just to make things interesting my new siren has 4 wires - black, red, white and blue. Confirmed as - Ground, 12+ constant, + trigger and - trigger.. I wasn't exactly sure how to make 4 wires go into 3 however I was at least hopeful to match up colours and off I go.. Sounded promising when key fobs chirped the new alarm however as much as I enjoyed the alarm siren sounding to my turning signals I.e. Anytime a blinker illuminated.. Did make people think I was a cop car. Maybe ford wanted to keep people guessing, maybe black is positive in this case who knows. In terms of the 4 into 3 issue my options as far as I can see are (once I know which existing wire does what) to either; 1. wire - trigger into earth, or 2. wire + trigger into positive constant. Good times.

Anyway, 06BF motor is in and running so I guess that answers that question..

My 03 BA motor has let go with rod 6 snapped and half way through the side of the block. I'm in the process of a BF bare long motor swap, just wanting to make sure there is nothing I need in terms of BF accessories to make it all work. Unfortunately I will be keeping the 4 speed for now. Thanks in advance.

One of the plugs not connected correctly? also check ICC and ICC BATT fuses but unlikely as you would also be losing the display illumination.

I tried to do the amp test with the negative terminal disconnected but I couldn't replicate the battery drain. If I open and shut the doors I see 0.87amps which soon drops to 0.21 and then down to 0.02 after 15mins or so. It doesn't make a difference if I pull the fuse or not, I still see a similar amp level which has me stumped. Maybe I haven't waited long enough to do final reading so I will try again when I get a chance. For now I am just pulling the fuse to the ICC and that is at least saving my battery. It was suggested on the fordmods forum to see if the CD player is working and yes it all seems to be working perfectly except for the central locking button on the ICC.

I will, I just need it to be over the weekend so the wife isn't nagging in my ear.

Mine is drawing a lot more than .08amps to be draining more than 0.5volts out of the battery overnight.

Im going to jump out of this thread now as it relates to alarm battery.. My situation and latest update can be found here - http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/87276-battery-drain-ba-xr6t/

Fuse 20 - 'ICC BATT' fuse was not the cause of the drain, pulled fuse number 28 'Interior Control Centre' and that stopped the drain. Which is good I guess, it means the BEM is okay as I can start the car with this fuse pulled, its purely the ICC that it seems to fuse. New ICC needed?

I had the 'batt. 1' fuse out overnight but I'm worried what might happen if I leave it out too long. Next I'm going to pull just the ICC-BATT 15A fuse and see what voltage difference I see. One other thing I have noticed is the central door lock button on the ICC is not working.

I also came across this diagram of the circuit applicable to the batt. 1 and batt. 2 fuses.. maybe I am interpreting the 'icc-batt' incorrectly, its just a 15A fuse by the looks of this circuit?

This fuse runs 'ICC-batt' through to the ICC in case anyone is wondering, I am looking at the diagram now. Whats involved in replacing the ICC battery? anyone know?

It's taking .01 volts constantly, you can literally watch the battery go down in 0.01 volt intervals with that fuse in.. As soon as the fuse is pulled, the car battery holds its charge perfectly. I've had everything checked over there is absolutely nothing wrong with the battery, alternator or charging system. I'm thinking the same as you Spyathe, it's keeping radio presets even with the fuse pulled for 8hrs if that means anything? please tell me replacing the ICC battery is like the AAs in my 3yr old son's remote control car? Thanks for the help so far guys..

Can anyone else help? It's fuse number 9 - 'Batt. 1' 40amp in the engine bay.. it appears to affect the ICC, interior lights and starting the car..

There is a battery inside the siren.. I currently have it disconnected from 12v. The car battery drain appears to be coming from engine bay fuse 9 - 'battery no.1' but I'm not sure exactly what this fuse does..

I have isolated the drain to engine bay fuse number 9 40amp 'battery no.1'. All I know about this fuse is that I can't start the car without it. Can anyone tell me what this fuse does exactly? Does the alarm run off this circuit by any chance.

Yeah I'm thinking the battery inside the alarm system is possibly stuffed and draining my car battery, that's why I am asking. Thanks for the pointer, I will have a look inside the siren.