timwds

Great result Norrs! What ratio of water to meth are you running and did you do much experimenting with meth ratios on the dyno? Cheers

A manifold leak will normally get better with load because the vacuum is reduced. Roughness that gets increasing worse with load suggests either a spark or fueling issue. You could also try dumping bottle of nulon injector cleaner in a full tank of fuel, it has worked wonders in the past. I haven't had injector issues with Falcons before but have with many smaller cars (corolla etc), worth a shot if nothing else works.

Check your intake manifold bolts and try spaying some water around the gasket whiles it's running to check for leaks.

Hi Ralph, I'm the Tim that did the tuning. I do agree it's a bit short for that boost level. From memory it made 298kW at 12PSI. We had just raised the boost which made the 309 before running out of time. At that boost I could also heard audible signs of valve float up top, hence dropping it back. Hoping to sort out some new valve springs, go back and add some timing to that load level. This has been a big education for both of us so we're happy with baby steps and learn along the way. I'm on the HPT forums as well, they've been very helpful throughout out the journey. Thanks for your feedback

Tyre wear/pressure matter a lot: It's not limp mode unless "D" is flashing on the cluster and stuck in fourth gear.

I've just serviced two with Nulon Full SYN ATF. I put one bottle of G60 in as per Nulon's recommendation. Both cars drive perfectly after one tank of fuel (learn time), both cars modified. I bought a Wesfil filter kit (alloy pan) and 20L drum from Bursons.

I haven't had an issue in my XR6 turbo. My Skyline on the other hand.... I agree, looks do matter.

If you run a pipe down near the fuel filter there is no "oil everywhere". A small shiny spot on the chassis rail at most which never hurt anyone. Edit: Also doesn't look like cop bait.

If you're running atmo, why bother with the can?

Thanks Red-Green stripe (R-G) looks like a good place to start

Oh whoops, BF2 turbo

Hey guys, Does anyone know of any medium current ignition wires that could be used for a wideband controller and a few gauges (1-2 amps) power source? I'd prefer to use ignition rather than accessory as I have a 4-way amp remote signal hooked up to accessory and I don't want the wideband to drain my battery if I'm listening to music with the engine off. I was going to go hunting with the multimeter this weekend but thought I might ask in case someone already knew. Thanks in advanced.

I put a cap on the front spigot (inlet) and replaced the PCV valve with a PCV elbow and ran a pipe down the frame rail near the fuel filter. Done about 10,000km, so far no issues, oil stays clean and no sludge build up. Edit: Capped the unused PCV vac line of course.

I would highly recommend removing the flex plate/flywheel. It is possible without but gets a bit tight around the brake lines at the back. Unplug the temp sensor at the back, it can snap the sensor if it gets caught. Hang the AC compressor with some tie wire/string so it doesn't damage the hoses, power steering pump can hang. Sides are fine, turbo, alternator and all.

BA or BF? I believe BA's use a full length sump gasket and timing cover gasket. BF's use RTV and a small front and rear sump gasket only. I gave all my rubber gaskets a very light spray with Hylomar. Only been together for a few weeks so too early to tell if it worked.

Not sure, I'd start by looking at belt catalogues or supercheap and see if you can find one with the same profile but shorter. You could always just fab some idlers.

I believe it's a 21mm socket, at least B series are.

To elaborate on what Jet said, BA's don't have an idle controller because the ecu just actuates the throttle plate to maintain idle. A lot of features in the BA ecu are based around throttle position (fueling etc), if you took that control away by using a cable TB nothing would work... If you wanted to use a cable TB, you would have to run a full aftermarket ECU. I don't know about sizing and bolt pattern.

Chill out guys, based on our combined experiences it sounds like chains can jump teeth regardless of whether the guide is broken. There are tons of cars out there with broken guides that don't even know it, I didn't know until I pulled mine apart of other reasons. IMO, it comes down to bad design. The end of the guide isn't supported very well and the retaining clip is tiny. Metal vs plastic vs time, metal is going to win... simple.

My BFII guide broke in the same place and timing was still correct.

Just say it, you told me so... So my leak is back, lesson learnt. I'm in the process of stripping everything down to take the block in for a skim. One thing I wasn't expecting was this: Bad port Good port Faulty stem seal?

Sorry, I was in a rush so forgot to get pics. Long story short, the engine in my car has a few minor issues. The plan was to take a quick look and if easily fixable, throw the wreck engine in my car. Saw metal and scores and put it to one side because it will be easier to fix my engine. Once my car is going I'll strip the other engine and get some pics, hopefully in a week or two.

I do have the car and yes, roll over big time. I would have thought it would take a while to score due to lack of oil, especially when the wheels aren't on the ground and making boost. My mother drove her AU around for a day with no oil and it runs sweet as a nut The metal chunk is magnetic and yeah, tear down for sure.

Hey guys, I've recently obtained an engine from a wrecked BFII. It looked like it had only been installed for a few weeks due to how clean it was, fresh RTV etc. It seems to run fine but it makes quite a loud "clack clack" sound at low load/idle but goes quiet about 3k rpm, kind of sounds like a diesel. I pulled it apart hoping it was a chain guide and found a fresh looking set of H beams and forged pistons. The only things I could find was a small square clunk of metal in the sump (looks like cam tone wheel tooth except none are missing), oil was a bit glittery/metal sparkles and the bores have a fair amount of scoring around where the skirts are. I suspect the glitter is from the bores. My best guess is someone has balls'd up the machining tolerances. Has anyone else seen scoring on a fresh engine and any ideas what would cause it?

There are plenty of low 300Kw Ba's around. If you can handle a few less Kw stick with your BA engine, if it goes bang replace it with a BF engine. My understanding of the differences between the two is rods, pistons, timing cover and ecu. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Guys, do BA's have one or two knock sensors?