timwds

Great result Norrs! What ratio of water to meth are you running and did you do much experimenting with meth ratios on the dyno? Cheers

A manifold leak will normally get better with load because the vacuum is reduced. Roughness that gets increasing worse with load suggests either a spark or fueling issue. You could also try dumping bottle of nulon injector cleaner in a full tank of fuel, it has worked wonders in the past. I haven't had injector issues with Falcons before but have with many smaller cars (corolla etc), worth a shot if nothing else works.

Check your intake manifold bolts and try spaying some water around the gasket whiles it's running to check for leaks.

Hi Ralph, I'm the Tim that did the tuning. I do agree it's a bit short for that boost level. From memory it made 298kW at 12PSI. We had just raised the boost which made the 309 before running out of time. At that boost I could also heard audible signs of valve float up top, hence dropping it back. Hoping to sort out some new valve springs, go back and add some timing to that load level. This has been a big education for both of us so we're happy with baby steps and learn along the way. I'm on the HPT forums as well, they've been very helpful throughout out the journey. Thanks for your feedback

Tyre wear/pressure matter a lot: It's not limp mode unless "D" is flashing on the cluster and stuck in fourth gear.

I've just serviced two with Nulon Full SYN ATF. I put one bottle of G60 in as per Nulon's recommendation. Both cars drive perfectly after one tank of fuel (learn time), both cars modified. I bought a Wesfil filter kit (alloy pan) and 20L drum from Bursons.

I haven't had an issue in my XR6 turbo. My Skyline on the other hand.... I agree, looks do matter.

If you run a pipe down near the fuel filter there is no "oil everywhere". A small shiny spot on the chassis rail at most which never hurt anyone. Edit: Also doesn't look like cop bait.

If you're running atmo, why bother with the can?

Thanks Red-Green stripe (R-G) looks like a good place to start

Oh whoops, BF2 turbo

Hey guys, Does anyone know of any medium current ignition wires that could be used for a wideband controller and a few gauges (1-2 amps) power source? I'd prefer to use ignition rather than accessory as I have a 4-way amp remote signal hooked up to accessory and I don't want the wideband to drain my battery if I'm listening to music with the engine off. I was going to go hunting with the multimeter this weekend but thought I might ask in case someone already knew. Thanks in advanced.

I put a cap on the front spigot (inlet) and replaced the PCV valve with a PCV elbow and ran a pipe down the frame rail near the fuel filter. Done about 10,000km, so far no issues, oil stays clean and no sludge build up. Edit: Capped the unused PCV vac line of course.

I would highly recommend removing the flex plate/flywheel. It is possible without but gets a bit tight around the brake lines at the back. Unplug the temp sensor at the back, it can snap the sensor if it gets caught. Hang the AC compressor with some tie wire/string so it doesn't damage the hoses, power steering pump can hang. Sides are fine, turbo, alternator and all.

BA or BF? I believe BA's use a full length sump gasket and timing cover gasket. BF's use RTV and a small front and rear sump gasket only. I gave all my rubber gaskets a very light spray with Hylomar. Only been together for a few weeks so too early to tell if it worked.