az6 turbo

If you hold the interior light button you can change the brightness of the lights, I know their still going to come on when you open the boot but at least it won't be so bright.

I had the same thing 4 tyres fitted, drove fine on the way home up to around 80 kmph. First time I got on highway had a bad vibration, thought they stuffed the balance up. Ended up getting them balanced another two times, still bad vibration. Anyway told shop wasn't happy and got sent to a truck alignment shop where they jacked up the car and spun the wheels up while on the car still and it turned out two of the tyres were faulty.

Yeah I was recomended to f**k the oil off that I was using and use some brad penn oil which is semi syn.

Mines may 09, so don't know if it's just limited to early ones, maybe all fg owners should be having a look. Unless they mean all series 1 fg are the early ones. The gaskets are rubber so should be right to take off, have a look and put back on, but being rubber they do go hard, so probably depends on how many ks on them to what sort of condition there in. Genuine gaskets aren't expensive, cam cover, 6 spark plug tube seals, 2 vct gaskets $113 from ford.

Once I get it repaired I'll send the cam to arronm if he's still interested in checking case hardness. Just don't know how long till I get it repaired. Should be within a couple of weeks, just need to find a cam. Are fg n/a cams the same?

Bought the car with 110xxx ks so can't say what oil was in before but had full service history. I use castrol edge titanium 0-40. I know the rumours about full synthetic, but if it was true I'd expect to see wear like that on all lobes, not just one! It was worn like that on cyl no4, inlet valve closest to the front of car. I'm sort of thinking its bad case hardening just because of the way it looks or I was getting really bad float on just that valve. And their was no rattle to even suspect there was something wrong.

So to ad to this just took the cam cover off to fix a small weep of oil and found this. Anyone have a inlet cam for sale??

Mines been done by cms, no issues. Are they going to tune the car? Just asking because if you get the flapper/port job at 'x' shop, go to 'y' shop for a tune and then have a boost control issue who's fault is it? tuners or port/flappers job. Best to keep it all in one shop, and can't speak highly enough of cms like a lot of people on hear.

Yeah there the mixer shafts, they were not broken on mine, but probably better to replace while it's apart, my flap/ bucket thing was broke. I can't find a link or picture of the part, but if u go into ford they will know what part u mean. So u know the mixer shaft slides through the flap/ bucket to move the flap to change amount of air that goes through heater core. Hope this helps.

Had that problem 2 weeks ago. It was the flap/ bucket type of thing. I got two flap/bucket things and two mixer shafts( might aswell replace everything) because it's a complete dash out job. Ford wanted around $1000 to do it, parts were $200 trade price. Good luck.

The more u free up the inlet, or exhaust the more higher the spike will become

Normal for these cars to spike on gear changes. It's not overboost, that happens under load in gear and sounds like a miss fire.

Upload standard tune back into car, to many bad stories about tunes from intune

put the car into reverse and the passenger mirror should dip, if it doesn't push the button again on the seat.

Button on side of drivers seat with a picture of a mirror is your friend as you can switch the function on and off

There was a spam post in there, has been deleted now, wasn't aimed at you!, yeah thanks for the comments.

Um 60 mins in an hour, one of those days huh?

Best to use genuine ford coils

How'd you put a full exhaust on and not hit the boost cut? Without getting it tuned??

Do u still have the "farts" in the box as this affects if the gearbox is going to slip aswell

Another retard^^^^

If the fuel tank was in the front half of the car, could of drove it home!

Just remember once your motor is fixed your still going to have an overboost problem!

Are u getting any clicking noise when u press the starter button, if u are its a flat battery. If u can check the voltage when u press the starter button if the volts drop to much it wont start that's your cranking amps on battery.

If car is on reds, engine light and battery light come on and stay on until car is started. If u got the car started and lights are still on need to check codes could be alternator issue.