joshmcmillan

Don't rush into it. Go test drive a GT and F6 of any colour and see what you prefer once you're actually behind the wheel. Have a look at a few Winter White FG's in person and see what you think. Lastly, if you want a Nitro blue one, wait until one you'll be happy with comes along... It might surprise you once you're checking carsales every day how long it takes the perfect deal to come up with all the things you want.

Looks great! How'd you do the sidewalls?

1. 1991 EA Falcon Series 2 Gli - 4 speed Column Shift Auto, Lukey Exhaust, 15" snowflakes. 2. 2004 BA Falcon XT - 4 spd. Cruise, Alloy Wheels. 3. 1997 EL Falcon Future - 5 Speed - AU Engine, Extractors, Cat, Exhaust, Short Shifter, 17" Mags, XR Suspension, Tinted Windows 4th and Current: 2005 BA MkII Falcon XR6 Turbo - 6 Speed Manual - Premium Audio - X-Force Dump, Cat, Exhaust, FPV Air Intake, K&N Filter, Tinted Windows, Boost/Oil Pressure Gauges, Earl's In-line Turbo Oil Filter, C&V Performance Tune @ 270RWKW.

Yeah would probably make it easier.. I had the upper snorkel off the intake.. It's not actually that hard from below if you have the right tools but would probably be a lot easier from the top

Yes.

Having had all of those 3, I would say rule the 595's out completely... And the grip on the last two would be fairly close but the Achilles will last twice as long.

How much fuel in the tank?

Yeah, they're a very cheap tyre... I was worried to start with before I done a bit of research and found out how highly reviewed they are!

My Earl's oil filter sandwich plate came in the mail today from that same seller, so I can vouch for him

They were ok, safe enough, far better than the 595's which were fairly bad in the wet, but would still spin if you had a bit too much throttle, and you would want to be light through corners on slippery road, but same goes for any tyre I've used. Probably not as good as the Kumho's I had in the wet by a small margin, but just as good in the dry. The Kumho's got worn out in 14,000km's, where as you could hardly see much wear on the Achillis at the same km's.... this time I'm going to get the Achillis ATR Sport 2 which is meant to grip even better in the wet, be quieter on the road and have a better rim protector. But yeah, definitely not a bad tyre the achillis.. have a google search there is a ton of reviews. My first set came from a site called TheWheelDeal (I think they're a site sponsor?)... However JaxQuickFit has a special atm and without needing postage it works out cheaper. (ATR 1 $119, ATR 2 $129)

They had a bad batch I'm pretty sure, but any you buy now should be past that. As mentioned, even potential leaking fittings are 100x better than a broken turbo. They're pretty easy to fit, here's a quick write up from my BA: -Basically you get under the car, above your oil filter there will be a plug going onto the bit where the factory line comes off. Un-plug it. -It's made up of three pieces, the filter, then a middle piece, then the oil sender unit. So put a 25mm open ended spanner (actually 24mm but 25 is easier to get on) from above onto the middle piece (wedge it or get someone to hold) and get underneath with a 21mm spark plug socket (long socket) on an extender bar and undo the oil sender unit. -Now move your 25mm spanner onto the inside piece on the engine side of the oil line and use a 24mm/25mm socket of some sort on the middle piece to remove it. -Now move to the turbo side, take the pipe going from the turbo to the crossover section on top of the rocker cover off, use a socket with extender to remove the bolt holding down the oil line. You might need a smaller 3/4" drive to get at it. The line will lift off. -You might need to use an alan key to remove the plastic clip holding the lines together up front, I did but not sure if it was needed, don't pull the screw right out just loosen it enough to move the plastic bit. -Now get back under and rotate the washer touching up the oil line until it comes off, and then slide the factory oil line off, it should now lift out. -Put a socket / spanner over the last piece remaining in the block to remove the filter piece. Remove the element out of the piece. -Use new thread tape / sealant and screw it back into the block tight. -Either reuse the old washer or a new one and place it into position over the filter... screw the black banjo fitting onto the new line by hand, place over the old filter piece and then put the filter on. Move it into position and again with new sealant/ thread tape tighten the middle piece on MAKING SURE you have a spanner over the inside piece. Don't tighten too tight that you crack the banjo fitting. -Put a spanner now onto the middle piece and with new sealant/tape tighten the oil sender unit back in, plug in. -Now on the other side, take the adaptor piece out and place it into the turbo/ tighten as per instructions (again, use sealant/tape) -Loosely fit the other line to the adaptor on the turbo, and loosley fit it to the new earls filter (making sure arrow is to the turbo as per instructions). -Basically now just go around tightening all the connections, make sure to route it all in a way that looks neat and use cable ties, be careful when tightening the line onto the banjo fitting as it's plastic, and make sure to face the sticker away so you can't see it if you like. (otherwise it's in view and upside down).

Sure have I went from Kumho to 595's to Achillis.. sold car... now Falken 452's that were on my new car and I'm putting another set of achillis on.

595 grips pretty well in the dry, not noisy around corners, tread wear pretty bad and they don't give much confidence at all in the wet. I've got Falken's on my XR6 Turbo atm and they seem alright, but haven't been pushed hard yet. Buy some Achillis ATR Sport, they're better than both and I am getting a set put on my XR6T in a few weeks.

I purchased and fitted an Earl's one last week to my BA MkII, and mine has the 90 degree fitting on the turbo end, as well as the orange hose. No washers on the turbo end, and reused the factory washers on the banjo fitting at the pickup point on the block and I haven't noticed it leak yet. Maybe you bought an FG one??

Mine has 270rwkw on stock cooler... (also don't be fooled if you look and see the part number plate that has the FPV logo, stock coolers are an FPV item)

March 2005 BA MKII XR6 Turbo, 89,500km's. Been running 270rwkw since ~30,000km's. Spark plugs were replaced as maintenance rather than required at 66,000... Both rear control arm bushes and horn wiring in the last 10,000km's and that's about it that I know of. I am expecting to replace the clutch soon as it is the factory one running far above factory torque, and also expecting to start replacing various suspension components soon in order to retain solid handling and no vibrations. Has an Earl's turbo oil line so I'm hoping the turbo will stay strong for a long time to come.

20 year old with BA MKII XR6 Turbo... NRMA said it was completely fine for me to insure it with my Dad as the ONLY listed driver, even if I am the main driver, so long as he would be in some indirect way financially effected if it was written off (the example used was me having to borrow his car). I am copped with a $2600 excess in such an event though. $537 a year in a mid risk area (Dad is 55yo, Rating 1 for life) (We live in one of the lowest risk areas possible but small town and post code is the same in a worse area 30 minutes drive away). Would be $1650 listed in my name, or $1350 with me as a listed driver in Dad's name. Insured for market value, which I'm hopeful that in the event I would have to claim, they would take into account that it is a 6 speed manual with only 89,000km's in immaculate condition and not only give me say $10,000 to buy something far worse.

Fitting oil sender unit to my XR6 Turbo using a T-piece... didn't put spanner on the turbo oil line filter... turned the car on, oil leaked, turned it straight back off... realised that I'd pulled the line to the turbo right back around in a loop with kinks/cracks, up further I had pulled it tight against the block and it had rubbed a strip in the belt too..... Probably saved my turbo in the long run as it forced me to invest in an Earl's braided line and filter.... However when fitting that, the T-piece for the sender (Calibre brand) snapped before getting tight... so we had to drill the snapped bit out, chisels a flat head screwdriver bit onto it... refitted original sender with Earl's kit.... now I've spent another $60 on an Earl's oil filter sandwich plate, should have done so in the first place! Not really my fail but when I bought my last car (EL Falcon), me and my brother drove it 6 hours to home (hard to find factory manual), before realising that all 10 of the front wheel nuts were easily removed by hand...

Looks good! Although if I were you I'd turn the filter around so you can't see the sticker I fitted mine the other day, $140 from eBay. Managed to get it looking alight (nothing as good as yours), just made sure the filter was dead center in front of block and tight against the turbo's coolant line, with sticker out of view. They're a good looking piece of kit.

I bought some in Lightening Strike for my BA from Ford the other day? $27 for a little bottle like nail polish.

Could be the boost solenoid. Also could be a number of other things. I'd start with ignition stuff and boost solenoid.