Paolo Sancho

My apologies @bamk2f6tornado, I am no mechanic by any means and didnt even pay enough attention to notice what you said. I'll just go ahead and buy another wheel bearing, and ill let a mechanic do it this. I was quoted $332 last time to get it done, and felt that price was a bit harsh so I had a crack. Thank you very much for your time. - Cheers Ralph for that PDF. Not sure where you got it, but that is gold. Is there an entire PDF for my whole car that I could purchase ?

Hey ralp, can you tell me how you got that diagram, or possibly post a picture of the part that is giving you the description of what each number is please ?

Not a problem man, any wording is better than no wording. I am just at a loss as to how the oil is getting out. I can only presume it is diff oil, as your wheel bearing has no oil and its definitely not grease. - Thank you as well ralph for those diagrams. Much appreciated mate.

the seal that is at the spline end of the shaft as mentioned above, does anyone know how to replace that seal or a part number etc ? any drawings or diagrams would be appreciated.

Hey guys, a few weeks ago I replaced my rear left wheel bearing in my '05 xr6t BF ute. Prior to changing the wheel bearing I had no oil leaks. Since changing it, I have now noticed an oil leak in the rear left wheel arc vicinity. It is all over the brake calipers, the rotors, the wheel arch, all behind the rotor assembly and back into the axle. I have a few questions ... 1. anyone else come across this ? 2. do xr6's have some type of rear axle seal maybe half way down the axle shaft or close to the spur gear end ? 3. If you are changing your rear wheel bearing, is it common practice to change the axle seal ? My only thought is that when I have been re-sliding my axle shaft back into the sleeve I have possibly damaged the rubber seal and now my diff oil is by passing the seal and pissing out at the bearing assembly some where. Any info or help would be much appreicated.

Cheers man, I have one of these already on order because that is what I assumed had happened originally. Cheers for the confirmation

Just before anyone jumps at this post, I have seen the pinned thread on the actuator. I read it and I had believed my problem was with it, and I have ordered a new plastic gear spinning piece that snaps. But today the symptoms have changed. Originally I went to lock my car door at night with the remote button and I heard a weird buzzing come from the passenger door. I went over and lifted the handle and presto the door was unlocked and open. I closed it and tried to lock it again, and the driver door locked perfectly, but the passenger door just made the weird buzzing sound and still you could open it from the outside. I figured if I can hear it buzzing that tells me I am getting power, but something is not moving in order to turn the locking mechanism. Today though, I drove my ute to the gym and when I pushed the lock button, to lock just the driver door, it made the usual buzz noise from the passenger side, but this time the driver door instantly unlocked itself and then proceeded to beep at me a few times. I tried two more times and like clock work it spat the same result at me, with interior light staying on. Can anyone break this down for me, and tell me if it means anything different seeing the ute now constantly thinks the passenger door is open, and the fact that now the driver door refuses to lock as well, when it was locking fine before ?

Thank you very much Ralph. You are an absolute life saver. That guide is gold. May I ask where you got that guide ? I will be doing this tomorrow afternoon. Once again mate, thanks for taking the time to provide that guide and help me out. Very much appreciated. I will try help the forums out and I will take plenty of pictures and reupload a guide if you would like ?

Very firstly I am not even sure where to post this, either diff's, wheels, or general and I will proceed to explain why. I have a 2005 BF xr6 turbo ute. I had an issue with the wheel nuts coming off Saturday night whilst driving on the freeway in Brisbane, and my wheel came off. In the process I snapped 1 wheel stud clean, and bent the other 4. I have since tried to read guide after guide but none of them are describing the issue I have. One of the guides I read on here states just to drill a hole in the dust plate and you can tap the studs back through the hole. But in my case, I can completely remove the dust plate but my problem is the anti skid sensor ( at least that is what I think it is ). My studs cannot slide back due to a silver disc behind the studs trapping them in. I have found on an American youtube vid the guy talks about removing the diff cover, and inside the diff is a circlip. Remove the circlip and you will be able to slide the entire left axle shaft out which will have the 5 studs on it. Once fully removing the left shaft you can tap back the studs. Is this correct ? Has anyone ever removed the studs on a 2005 bf xr6 turbo ute ? Any info or help would be much appreciated as I am at a stale mate right now. Here are some pictures of my progress. You can clearly see from different angles how my studs are blocked in.

Hey guys, I am not sure if the Xr's are the same as on the territorys. But when I did the wheels studs on a territory I ran into the issue of the dust plate. Instead of drilling through the dust plate, there is a section of it that has machines notch out of it. You can rotate the dust plates notch, to each of the wheel studs position and tap the wheel stud out through the gap. I will let you guys know if its the same on my xr6t ute.

hey sorry to flog an old dead horse, but I have the exact same issue as cro on the standard bf xr6 turbo setup. I get squeels when driving normally at slower speeds, generally when my foot is on neither brake or accelerator. The squeel is only intermittent though. It will only occur for a split second then disappear, but I can recreate the exact same noise when rolling into a corner and when I turn right into a street, I get a squeel from the back left, and when I turn left I get a squeel from the back right. not to mention squeels when braking at lights 24/7. I am currently looking at upgrading thanks to the tax man. I very rarely get up the ute and have never been to a track day and only give it some if I think someone is worth having a run against. also I got stock rotors/calipers but running bendix $100 repco pads. I know that's my problem right there, but I have had the car for 1 1/2 yrs and never had these problems till I recently changed the brake pads 2 months ago, with the exact same pads that were already in there.

Name Daz Car: Bf 05/06 XR6 Turbo (ute) Trans: 6sp man Power: 336.1rwkw ( at the wheels ) Boost: 12psi Induction: Growler box, Pw stage 1 cooler Turbo: Stock Valve Springs: pw Exhaust: 4" dump to a 3.5" straight through single Fuel system: bosh 044, Siemans Injectors Power adder: BPS

yeah, I know lsd will have no effect on power, just wondering on the status of it. anyone been in this position and aware of the cost of replace?

Hey, I just bought a 2005 bf xr6 turbo ute, and no matter where I look on the net, I cant find any specs stating that my ute came with a lsd fitted. Ive put it up on the ramps and my diff has a lsd sticker on the diff stamp plate, yet when I turn the tyres its telling me its a single bagger. I just seen a post from a guy asking will he need to put in a lsd on his xr6t to make 310kw. As far as im aware it came stock with a lsd, but can anyone please clear this up for me. If so, what are my option in reguards to replacing it if its shagged, cause atm the 336kw its ridiculous on a single bagger. Any help or info would be much appreciated. Cheers for your time,.