masda74

It sounds like the throttle body is fine as you are able to drive arround. It sounds to me that you might not have loaded the ford custom PID in the Torque app. you could be using the wrong PID to monitor the throttle.

@discostig A sh*t DUDE!!! Sorry to hear that. Split from the misses is not good. I hope it was not due to financial situation. Hope you back on your feet.

IF I was in your situation, I would definitely take it to CMS to get looked at. They know their stuff. At least to verify that the previous guys didn't just slap on a turbo to an NA engine. They could do a power run on the dyno and tell you how she is behaving. I take it you have no service history for the car and that there is nothing in the glove box, like a dyno sheet either? In regards to not having power to do some skids.... well...... make sure you turn off traction control first! Then keep the revs at 4000rpm and then dump the clutch.

worked for me as well.

Keith. I was joking with you. I know what you mean. I actually edited my previous post to have the correct gap size. I have put new plugs in. However the gapping that those plugs had were 0.8mm The previous spark plugs were gapped on purpose at 0.65, however when measuring them, they were at 0.61mm. The car has shown 20psi in the Torque App. Bosch is what I was able to get at staff discount pricing. I am just gonna take the spark plugs and gap them at 0.7mm since they are new. Thanks for all the info. Arron thanks for assisting over the weekend with the clamp.

I don't know what you mean.

@arronm if you message me the details, I could upload it to a secure location and share it with @HI PSI Drop box or Google drive will work as well

@coffeenonguru What exhaust system are you planning on getting, or are you just getting the CAT changed? What power are you aiming for?

So a replacement clamp was sourced yesterday afternoon, thanks to the TUNA!!! Second hand part used free of charge and installed by said TUNA. Zip ties were removed before hand and discussion about spark plug gaping ensued. 0.65mm is the new trend. Will need to regap spark plugs over weekend.

Has the car been tuned. If so I am assuming you have an SCT3/SCT4. Plug that in to the obd port and read the codes. This will tell you what is happening. If you don't have an SCT3/SCT4, then get an OBD port scanner to check for codes. If you don't want to get a scanner, then take it to a tuner to check what is going on. Good luck.

Zip Tie!!! fark me, why didn't I think about that. If Arron doesn't have a spare, I will get some zip ties on there. Thanks for the tip @Puffwagon.

Also Check with monsta torque. They could have tuned it as well. Is there any dyno sheets in the glove box that would indicate where it was tuned?

I just don't want sh*t getting sucked into the turbo. I know a little dust won't do much harm. The last thing I want is the car breaking down on the side of the road and then get comments like. There is another broken down ford. to embarrassing.

clamp says 90-110 on the outside. on the inside, I am assuming that this is a part number 042910R. I know that a catch can would fit, but I never got around to fitting it. Life does get busy especially with kids. That is why I took the time to clean it today. I know it will just come back.

sounds like the engine mounts though. not sure what you mean by bottom engine mounts. As far as I am aware, there are two engine mounts. They sit right at the bottom of the engine.

Well I went out and bought some tools at Covs as I know someone that works there. That being said yesterday, this happened. I had to go and visit family and was looking after the kids, so did not have a chance to do anything on the car. Today I had time to get stuff done and started at lunch time. Having the right tools makes things soo much easier to do. So I went out and bought 5/8th socket for the spark plug and the angled wigley worm bit. you know what I mean. My luck would have it that the socket set that I have already had the parts I needed That got me into the spark plugs port to remove them. This worked for piston 1 to 5. Yeah I know those spark plugs needed replacing. I think they been on there for 100k. Anyways back to buying tools I did not need. they actually came in handy and made my life easier on piston 6. The socket set I had, the extension bars were too long and I couldn't get the wrench on. I resorted to this. that is a angled wiggley worm at 1/2". Then a conversion from 1/2" to 5/8" Then a angled wiggley worm to the spark plug socket. I could have sworn that there was some sort of mention about the rubber backings on the rocker cover for the coils. I did not see any backing rubbers to hold the coils in place. I assume that the FG has the bolts there to do this job. While I was in the mood to get sh*t done, I thought it would be best to check the bolts for the exhaust manifold Took pipping off to make life easier and have easier access to all the bolts. I found this instead: It looks bad in the image because of the reflection. However the amount of oil in there is really just the middle bit in the image above. Another angle to try and show how much oil. Oil in the turbo inlet I am assuming that this is normal. After cleaning everything up and putting all the clamps back on, at the last minute and the last clamp, this happens Life can be suck a bitch at times. I was actually enjoying the 2 hour servicing of my vehicle. I was planing on going out tomorrow with the kids. Trip cancelled now. this freggin sucks Where does the clamp come from? Where the air filter box connects to the crossover. I went to repco, supercheap, auto one and none of them have a clamp as thin as the ford one. their clamps are thicker and would most probably cut into the piping. that is the last thing I would need. anyone in Perth got a spare clamp?

what wideband sensor and gauge do you use with the PCMTEC software? how do you wire it up to the laptop?

the problem with Generators is that you have to turn them on when the power goes out. so you could be without power for a minute or 3. With a UPS, it is always on as the battery is charging while it is plugged in. As soon as the power outage happens, the UPS automatically kicks in and your pc/server won't even notice it. you can carry on gaming to your hearts delight, as long as your adsl/nbn router is connected to it as well. a 1KVA ups should last you 5-10 minutes with a server, screen and router connected to it. I have a 3KVA ups at home and the fridge runs off it, if I need it to. I am also able to run my server and lights off it, if need be.

Rab, that comes across as: you love to torture your neighbors for 12 hours with the smell of brisket. If I lived next door to you, I think I would be sleeping over.

Ohh I know you do, especially around corners at the lights....

@Conversion xr6t ignore all of us pricks. We just trying to work out if you can take the banter. As mentioned, there is a lot of reading available on this forum. The BA motors are weaker than the others. They generally make it to 300rwkw with basic mods. When you want to go over those figures, then things get interesting. now unless you want a project car and you want to do all the work of building an engine, you are better off selling the BA and buying an BF MK2 and modding that. it will work out cheaper and you will have less headaches. have fun and enjoy the skids.

hey @Lunchietey, did you use a stock check valvue at the rear PCV port? Reason I am asking, is I still have not installed my damn catch can, cause I have no idea what piping and pcv check valve to get, before I install the catch can.

@arronmso does it come with a battery or not? Battery: One 18650 size (up to 69mm) 3.6-4.35V li-ion rechargeable. Batteries are not included in the package. Is that the catch?

Another mine of a thread that has not been looked at for a while. I hope the OP is still around. @bzerkone, if you get a system comms fault show, did you try and read the codes off the ECU?

thanks. I just can't believe that no one mentioned that BPT would be the issue at the time. Why not go to a reputable tuner to fix.