masda74

really? My car was transformed when I got the shockworks installed. It no longer was a BARGE. No more under steer. I personally don't believe that it is overkill. each person's wallet has different size. You wallet could say it is over kill, while Arron's might not. All I know is that when I want the car to turn, it just does.

Most people in Perth would recommend XFT or Monsta Torque. In Bunbury....... well I am not sure to be honest.

it depends on the car. all cars are different. Stock standard, it hits 6. It could go up to 8. In my case with supporting mods and tune, it went from 6 to 11 when I hit 310kw.

AWD??? really??? must be the first in Australia then being that it is an XR6

Add shadow hunters to the list Debbie??????

is there a timer setting in the menus somewhere?

lol. don't jinx the guy like that. I am sure we will find out the results this evening.

I have the same problem right now.

when I read the 725cc injectors, that kinda rang bells for me, as to whether you had chosen the right tuna. you gonna get over the extra power fast. it is addictive and it is mentioned all over the place. Go ID1000 injectors from the get go, so that you have room to increase power later on with a new turbo and so forth. Good luck

Now that I am back from a holiday overseas, I think we need to get some more traction for this cruise. So there seems to be a lot of interest for a cruise. I can't say that I am the best guy for the job as the last few cruises I ran, didn't end up very well. I think @discostig should take up his previous position as CC. Maybe we should get a thread started in the WA section to get some traction with Dates and times.

So any update @Renton?

I have an FG XR6T manual and run Shockworks. As a family car it does the job, however there are often complaints about the ride. I have the fronts at 4 clicks and the rears at 3 clicks, which is soft as far as I am aware. However the car handles bloody well. I wouldn't swap it for anything else. That feeling you get when you can place the car in the turn and at the apex every time with easy is hard to describe. I can't comment on the MCA reds, but I definitely think that the Shockworks are worth it. Thanks again Stripes.

when the car was stock, you could rev to 3000rpm and then dump the clutch and it would sort of do it's thing. after you tune it, if you keep it at 3000rpm, you kind fry tires really, even with TC on.

I never got the launch control right, so I wouldn't know. but the best launch control is that right foot of yours.

looks like some crack. but I did not jack it on the swing arm. I had it on the K frame in the middle. you can see the dents in the last pic from the jack.

So the Spark plugs were gapped to 0.7mm. I couldn't bring myself to leave them gapped at 0.65mm. Last Friday saw me doing this: plug was removed at the bottom. Was a bitch to get the fill hole plug out as it required an Allen key. bitch of a place to get to now, especially with the custom exhaust. Oil was dumped.... looking closely, it wasn't as bad as the first oil dumped from the diff. The oil was at least see through. boy did it stink to all hell. up and close, it was not black like the first oil change. Nulon 85w-140 was used again. Can anyone spot any issues in this picture So while lifting and dropping the car on the jack, I had a huge bang happen and I was not sure what has happened. I am assuming that the weight of the car on the one of the rear independent swing arms for the suspension may have damaged a bush. I could be wrong, but I will find out tomorrow morning.

Solid I am not sure if any of the original members in this thread are still around. I just did mine on Friday. Seems that there are different plugs out there for the diff. My FG needed an allen key to get the plug out of the fill hole. The bottom sump plug for the diff is a bolt.

The peep hole might leak some fuel.

Good choice in colour! In regards to the cross over oil leak, that is normal. that is caused by blow by. Getting a catch can installed will fix the problem. In regards to the oil leak at the turbo, maybe get someone(tuner) to have a look at it.

So not much has been happening lately. I was wondering if anyone is interested in a cruise in say 2 or 3 weeks time? @Boosturd @discostig @Ezy2Confuze @Lennox @SeduceG6Et67

nah mate, it is all about strategy. also if you have someone that has been playing for a while, show you the ropes, it is a lot easier. What graphics card do you have and what FPS are you getting?

go to the main page of the forum, scroll down, keep scrolling till you find the 300+ club, then the 400+ club and so on. You will know what we mean. getting a new Oil filter for the turbo line is recommended. getting rid of the old one is the recommended bit actually. whether or not to fit a turbo line filter is another story. Some members have just removed the oil filter all together. others replace it with an earls in line filter, like I have. I replaced my air box filter with a K&N filter. gets cleaned every service. Simple replace filter and off you go. If the car gets tuned, the Tuna will put a whole at the bottom left corner of the air box for more airflow. I know, because my airbox has said whole and car is pushing close to 400kw. Brake upgrades should be done first before any power mods. it is the more sensible approach. You could get Brembo's like everyone else and it will cost a fair bit to get done. I chose the cheaper option of upgrading my brake lines to braided lines. then removed the OEM rotors and replaced them with DBA4000. My first set of brake pads were Bremtec stuff which caused me so much headaches with shudder. Avoid at all costs I then went with Bendix ultimates. good bite, but very dust pads. I then went with the project mu ns400 pads. Been a good pad. not as dusty as the ultimates I have spent way more than 6k to get where I am at the moment. All I got to say is don't skimp out. Good luck with the build

Yep replace the current PIDs. That is what I did. From what I can recall, this process updates the formulas See the above image, there is a FORD EOT. That is a custom PID that I setup with the help of the other members on this forum. This is my current formula: (((A*256)+B)*5)/74-16 Have a read of this thread for a whole bunch of information.

I been playing PUBG for a while, but with the difference in time zones, I doubt we would ever be on at the same time. I only play in the evenings, with 6 hours difference in time......

In Torque, open the gear cog at the bottom left. (do not use the green get plugin gear cog). Once you click the grey gear cog at the bottom left, you have 3 choices. Click on settings. Scroll down till you get the "Manage extra PIDs/Sensors"/ Click on that. Now at the top right there are the 3 dots which is the pull down menu. Click it. Chose the option to "Add predefined set" Then in the list, chose "Ford(incl PowerStroke)" Once they have been added, you will notice that they have green icons. This is important. once you add a meter to your display and you choose which PID you want to monitor, look for any PID that has a green background. Those are the ford ones. The one that I am using is the "Thorttle Position(Manifold)"