tquarrell

Does anyone know the model number of the 4 speed auto used in the xr6 turbo's? The reason I ask is that when the xr8 (500nm) and gt (520nm) were introduced there was a 6 month wait because btr & fpv designed a whole new box (internally) called the m97-019 because the box used in the xr6 turbo (450nm) and 5.4 3v (470nm) wasn't strong enough. http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-67140946.htmlSo I guess my real question is are the FPV/xr8 auto's any stronger than the ones used in the xr6 turbo, and can they be/has anyone fitted one to an xr6 turbo?

Looking forward to seeing these things but was kind of hoping they'd use the real new boss engine, the 6.2 sohc (the new block with wider bore spacing) that they replaced the 5.4 with in the states in the F150 raptor truck, rather than the coyote (from what I understand is a bored out 4.6). 309kw @ 5500rpm and 588nm running 9.8:1 compression in truck trim on any grade fuel http://www.meadowlandford.com/ford-6.2l-engine-specs.htm, if FPV had of bumped the compression or even just changed the cams or tuned it for premium I'm sure it would of been more than competitive with the ls3 chev. I've also heard that Ford US have already developed a 7.0 litre version of this engine and fitted DOHC heads, producing upto 800hp in their drag race testing programe aspirated..

I've only tried two oils in the T, but as many have said before I think the weights are the crucial part. I've used 10-40 castrol magnatec and 15-60 Penrite HPR, the castrol oil didn't last as well (after 15k it had lost it's colour and gotten pretty dark) but it was great at start up and seemed to let the engine perform more freely. The HPR 15 after 12k still hasn't lost it's colour, but I think it is decreasing engine performance, and to be honest it's probably an overkill (however I have nothing to back that up). My car's running 15psi and 320rwkw btw. Personally I think a 10 or 15w 40 is the best for the engine overall (performance and longevity, exactly what ford recommend) magnatec is ideal if you change your oil regularly and do short frequent trips. I'm going to try some Sin15 next as I'm impressed with the quality of penrite oil, just think I chose the wrong product last time.

Are the nizpro boxes still built by yarra valley autos? I haven't heard much postive feedback on them... Also, has anyone done more than 20,000 kms on a rebuilt box with 300+rwkw from bayswater or nizpro? Any freshly rebuilt box will feel ok for a while, I've read posts from forum members that have said their freshly rebuilt box is awesome, then a few months later it's been rebuilt again and again (re prestons). And are you guys sure these boxes can only be rebuilt to standard? I've talked to Tony Dominello up here in Sydney, and he's told me that he does a total rebuild with new valve body, servo, planetaries and high energy bands for $3500. Also said that it's good for atleast 400rwkw, and is currently being used for 10.70's in an unopened ba sedan with 350ish rwkw. My stock box is currently feeling a little fatigued (after 70,000km's on a stock box with 300rwkw, and no, I don't try to break the box when I'm driving it) and I can either get a cheap, stock spec rebuild, or a full house, and hope it is actually better.

Another auto trans question (my 4 speed is feeling a little tired, time for a rebuild or replacement). Would it be difficult to fit a 5r55s auto as fitted to the FG xt's and Mustang GT's in the states to my ba 4sp? I know the ZF conversion done took alot of work, kind of hoping this will be easier. The reason I'm considering the 5sp, it is similar to the c4 and, being fitted to the mustang, has huge aftermarket support in the states. Apparently the trans has run 9 second passes in a supercharged 1730kg mustang totally stock (600 odd rwhp), and they offer a 800rwhp rebuild in the states. http://www.drive.com.au/Editorial/MiniSite...mp;MiniSiteID=8

Does anyone know the torque rating of the 4sp auto? I know the t5 is rated at 450nm, the zf 6 sp is rated at 600nm (in high performance spec), but what is the 4sp? They were fitted to the 290kw/520nm BA FPV v8's, and not the 270kw/550nm typhoon, so am I right in guessing between 520 and 550 nm? Or is it a little more? Were there any differences between the GT auto and the XR6turbo? I think I recall someone saying it had a different valve body, is this true? BTW I have done a search, didn't answer my questions. Thanks

I think the main reason the GT is slower in the tests is due to the 245 rear tyres versus the GTS's 275 rear tyres. The GTS gets from 0-60 km/h in 2.8 secs, they quoted 0-60km/h for the GT of 3.8 secs (which I find hard to believe). The G6e turbo goes from 0-60km/h in 2.5 secs with the 245 rear tyres. Also, the GT's 315kw's is quoted on 95 ron fuel, the GTS's 317 is on 98 ron. I'm geussing the test GT had 98 ron fuel, or maybe it's just ford understating their kw numbers. BTW I'm referring to the June wheels. The typhoon may get quicker once it's run in. It's 150 odd kg's heavier than the xr6t (as with ba/bf), but I'm guessing the typhoons may have conservative tune ups to run the engine in, that or the engine is simply no better than the 270kw ford engine.

I have a wog cooler on my car and don't agree that isn't good enough for 300rwkw. I have the BA mk1 cat and valve springs and made 299.5rwkw, then 299.4 & 299.2 rwkw's in back to back dyno runs without a cooling fan, so heat soak isn't a problem for me on 14psi. Unless you're changing your plumbing, I don't think there's much point getting a 800hp or 1000hp intercooler for a 550hp engine, but that's just me. If you put the a std intercooler along side the wog cooler, I'm sure you'll notice a difference in length, width and hieght.

I have a wog tune, 4sp auto mk1 sedan 110mph with 263rwkw @ 8psi (and dodgy valve springs). 13.2 with a 2.231 60ft

13.3 for the G6E on 95 ron sounds pretty believable and impressive to me. Run 98 ron fuel and you should gain a little more power (guessing at most 15-20 kw) which with good tyres could definately see 12's standard once run in. Also, can anyone confirm the times for the 7.0 commodore? I thought they'd be at least 1/2 a second quicker (12.2 or better). Can't wait to take a G6E for a drive, luxury, performance and straight six smoothness/refinement. Thinking I might have to get me one...

My local Ford dealer quoted me $300, not worth buying the tool or wasting your time imo

I average about 12.5l/100 with 60km/h average speed, mine's got 299rwkw on 14psi with siemens injectors/stock exhaust (not that efficient). Has anyone else noticed these thing use heaps of fuel when they're cold? My DTE figure drops like 20/30km 2-3 mins after starting. Also, maybe it's just my tune, but does anyone elses car rev to 1,250 when started and gradually settle back to about 900 when it's warm? I can't drive the thing until it idles below 1,000rpm as you have to push the brakes real hard to stop it moving. Startup is what really effects (inflates) my fuel consumption

They look pretty strong to me, I'd be interested to know what brand they are. Why don't you ask the guy you bought it off? Do you know where he got his engine built because they might be able to tell you.

I like the look of the mustang and the engine, it's just the other two are just as good, maybe better (personally, I've always wanted a viper)

It's fully backed by ford, it's a factory car using a kenne bell rathar than an eaton M122, not an aftermarket addition. http://www.caranddriver.com/carnews/12924/...uper-snake.html The aftermarket one (with no other engine mods) has 800hp - at the wheels! http://www.kennebell.net/media/articles/TooMuch.pdf And the only reason viper and vette can get close naturally aspirated is simply the size the engine (the vette is nearly 1/3 bigger and the viper is 1/2 as big again as the stang). And I'd suggest the viper/vette engines would cost at least as much to build as the supercharged 5.4. Never said it was better than the other two cars/engines, just matching the power output

Love the sound at idle...

Hi all, I know this is an xr6 turbo web site, but I thought I'd just mention this car. It's the new ford mustang super snake. In recent time I thought that maybe ford was getting left behind, with the Vette cracking 500hp for the first time (the GT500 Mustang Matched) which lead to the 600hp Dodge Viper Being released (the first 600hp us muscle car) and reports GM have a circa 650hp 7.0 litre vette in testing for 2008/9. However the new super snake has a supercharged 5.4 producing 725hp! I believe boost is set at around 13 psi (the stock GT500 motor is capable of taking 22psi aparently, with a forged bottom end standard). Just the thing for a 21st century GTHO http://www.kennebell.net/

Mine's an xr (03 auto sedan), it has siemens injectors ($450), typhoon cai (say $50), bmc filter (say $100), wogcooler ($450) and a walbro fuel pump (say $150) other than what was listed above. It has 263rwkw on 8psi, 283rwkw on 10psi and 299.4rwkw on 14psi (car had 203rwkw with wogcooler/typhoon cai/bmc panel filter otherwise stock on the dyno for comparative purposes) The 14psi tune produces max power at 4200rpm (power drops after this point) due to stock cat and mk1 valve springs as noted above. I'm expecting about another 30rwkw with these fixed (then limited by the stock rods).

Mine's got injectors, cooler and retune and has about 400rwhp, no new computer or exhaust required. I'm not complaining, total cost was less than 2,500. I'm guessing it would do a low 12 or mid to high 11 (it did a 13.4 @ 107 mph with a 2.4 60' and 315 rwhp).

If you have a look around here you'll find the exhaust is actually pretty good, and 2 1/4" most of the way through. The stock cat has an ID of about 2 1/2" from the dump pipe, ie replacing the cat with a free flowing one (aftermarket or stock) can double the flow of the stock system whilst sounding and looking almost standard. And I'll bet the exhaust system he's offering isn't stainless either for that price.

That´s what the accelerator is for, and why you don´t have an on and off button. I´d prefer something to happen when you floor it than nothing, and traction control is a good safety net, or a soft tune for other drivers

Why put a body kit and big wheels/exhaust on a car if performance doesn't matter? They're obviously trying to be sporty. On your second point, are you seriously suggesting that people shouldn't test a vehicle before they buy it? That's rediculous. How can you compare cars without driving them? The fact you ended up with a decent car (for the money/in its class) last time was more luck than good management if you ask me.

My dad's stock 5lt v8 au v8 ute with half a tonne of tools is faster than an sv6, and it's got 175kw versus 195kw! No torque down low makes these things a total slug off the mark. I have no doubt a ba taxi pack could keep up with, or even beat an sv6. I simply wouldn't consider owning one, especially after owning a T.

is it just me or do most japanese sports cars look bland. To me, what they can do is far more impressive than the sight of one. I remember Nissan claiming 0-100 for the 2.6's at 4.8 sec, however the real world testing was closer to 6 seconds. A 600hp dodge viper or 500hp vette has a sh*t load more street cred for the money as they not only go fast, but look and sound tough aswell. Looking forward to driving one sometime anyway.