TJS

No tyre pics yet, might do that. Many ppl said the rim was too small. Many said it wasn't. Until I tried it, it was all just theory. So I tried it. Luv it. Works. Simples.

Thx for all your comments but there's nothing like trying it for myself. Michelin Pilot Super Sport 265/30/19 on a std 8 inch rear rim......? Best bloody thing I ever did for getting power down to the road. They fit like a glove, wear evenly, hang on harder in the corners and now it only lights up in a straight line at the mid-top of second gear. It was lighting up too easily in 3rd before this. Still can't give it the beans in 1st or if I do a quick manual shift into 2nd, but that's due to the power upgrades I now have. I reckon only drag slicks would fully grip me down now - even then, I'd have to go to a smaller diameter rim and higher tyre profile but then, my rear discs and callipers get in the way.

It's making about 380 rwkw but torque is about 800Nm from 2500rpm onwards so it lights up by 3000 rpm. The tranny was also tuned to give 50ms changes when throttle was nailed - so that doesn't help with traction either... The Toyo R888 are a semi-slick and everyone I have spoken to has said they will def grip really well - much much better than the T1 Sports. It's just that the size I need is only avail in 265/30 if I want to keep the rolling diameter similar. It's reassuring to hear Henz say they fit well on 8s. Would be good if someone on the forum had tried this particular Toyo/rim combo though. Still, It's looking like I will shell out on a pair of these cos I am getting more good reports than bad so far. Let's see if someone else on the forum has an opinion. Thanks so far guys

Hi gang, Has anyone tried the Toyo R888 265/30/19 on 8 inch F6 rims? I have had several dealers say they will fit and grip like glue and one that says they're too big for the rim. I have massive traction issues with the Proxes T1 sport 245/35/19 and need something that will reel in the upgraded power I now have at the rear wheels. They were fine when the engine was stock but now light up in the first two or three gears in mid rpm. Failing all this, does anyone have a recommendation for the stickiest, straight-line-grippiest road legal tyres I can fit to the 19x8s ? Oh and any suggested inflation pressures to go along with this recommendation would be greatly appreciated too TJS

Like The Outsider said, those kW are just a dyno number. And there's little use for 400+rwkW if they all come in above 5500 rpm. We should be asking ouselves what the max torque is - & over what rev range does it deliver 90% of it. Power is great for top speed and drifting, but.... Power is (mathematically) torque multiplied by rpm, so of course you are going to get more of it as you rev it and spin the dyno faster. Torque is what accelerates me. Low rpm, sustained torque is what impresses me. Torque is why I got the F6E tuned and modded. I also have a modded SS (that is now mum's taxi since I picked up the FPV). It made just over 290 at the wheels - more than a stock F6. More than mine stock anyway and by about 10kW. But compared to the 6, it feels like a Prius. Every time I drive it I can't believe how gutless it is and how high you have to rev it before it does anything special. Also can't believe I spent what I did on it when there were XR6Ts available at the time! Since my tune, I have hardly taken the 6 past 5000. Just don't need to. It loves 2000-5000. Breaks 800Nm at 2500 & doesn't dip below that until just after 5000. It's soooo useable, soooo linear - but yeah, traction IS an issue - that's why I am curious as to what it could do with some really sticky rubber. This ain't a V8 vs. 6T title bout, I know V8s have more potential than sixes - otherwise they's be running 6Ts in Top Fuelers ffs. And there's no 6Ts in Formula One either - well not for many many decades anyway... The quickest thing I have ever been in was a V8 !! OK, so it had two turbos but that's my point I think. Turbos give you so much to muck around with at low rpm. And back to my very first comment - the one I started this post about - I was very surprised, no disappointed at the GTP & GTE I drove with 25kW and 5Nm more on paper that it did not go near as well in traffic as the F6s I had driven. And it seems from all your replies there may be many good reasons for that, some of which are prob the way I drive lol. And they do both seem to pull very very similar 400 times stock. Maybe the F6 is more of a circuit car. Maybe the G/T/P/E/S a strip car and faster at top end. But do you know what's really great? That FPV have three very different cars with very different pros and cons suited to very different buyers all within a few $K of each other - and they're all better than the HSV offerings by a shipload !!!.

Hmmmm, back to this post now I have been running with the mods and tune for a few months. OK OK it's awesome as some of you can attest to with your own modded F6s, but seriously, bang for buck and change out of $4K, it must be bloody difficult to get that much of an improvement out of a GT for the same dosh - 100+ additional rwkw and about 230 extra Nm. And it's NOT the rwkw that us F6ers should care about. Any tuner can make the graph look good at peak. What's mind blowing is the turbo's torque and how hard it pulls from low revs. And keeps pulling. And keeps pulling. Doing the maths, power to weight is still a little less than a Lambo Much but torque to weight - that's another story ! Tuner dude remapped the tranny too - absolutely awesome in it's own right. Changes now happen in half the time with none of that factory fuel cutoff crap thinggy between changes. Sqeals 3rd gear now even on freeways. Lights second up like the old map did in first. And this is a mild set of mods compared to some of you die hards Perhaps if the GTs had an intercooler you could go alot further with boost, but they're not cheap. Anyone still tossing up a Coyote over an F6 - just drive both. Curious, I am not a drag strip kinda guy but does anyone have an F6 around 370rwkW and 800Nm that has has had a strip run on drag slicks? Would love to know what they are capable of. Or even on road tyres ?? TJS

OK I give in, how do I "lock it"?

Never mind. Looks like I'll do it another way then.

@a2z, where was it tuned and how happy are you /10?

Hi gang, want to compare custom tunes on FG F6s. What's rwkw did you end up getting? What did u spend? Where did u get it done? What other mods were made ie injectors, cooler, exhaust etc? Overall satisfaction out of 10. I want to publish some $ per kw stats for all to see. Could be interesting.....

Thanks guys, it is a personal choice I suppose. Both ARE great cars. Certainly a ship load better than anything hsv has on offer. It's funny how we are comparing stable mates here, instead of racking them up against their hsv counterparts. But that would be no competition at all, would it? Shows how good the latest FPVs are. (I've never had a hsv pull away from me yet ......) And agreed - with a tune the, the GT would go even better, but from what I have seen here, the same tuning dollars appear to get more out of the 6 than the 8s. Now there's an interesting metric - additional kw/nm per $1000 spent!! We could compare cars AND tuning houses - sort of like Aldi's unit pricing but for petrol heads. Cule.

throttle

I suppose a topic with this title may attract some defensive comments from members but I am not looking to create an argument - just trying to make sense of an observation I have made recently. I have an F6E and recently drove a GT-P and GT-E. With 335kw, I was expecting the GTs to be very noticeably quicker than the 6, yet in every way, at every rpm, the GTs felt like I had left the hand brake on by comparison. Why ?? They are specced at having more torque and on paper, a better torque curve as well. So what's going on here. Now the GTs were very quick, but the 6 is like lightning. At 5,500 rpm, the GT was starting to pull like the 6, but the 6 pulls that hard all the way from 2,500 to 6,000. Traction was not an influencing factor. All were on pulp. Temp and air pressure comparable. WTF? Did FPV deliberatley advertise the F6 specs below real world performance so their flagship v8 looks good? Admittedly, you don't get a nice noise from the rear of the 6 - where the v8 sounds incredible. But with that sort of noise you expect performance to match. Has anyone else made a fair comparison of the two factory-stock cars? Should I get my 6E dyno'ed? I suppose it is possible that a previous owner tuned it but my 6E seems to go like other F6s I have driven. TJS

Thanks for all your tips everyone !! Been a big help. TJS

Thanks guys, Is there a conversion from lbs to cc? One sounds like pressure, the other volume ?? And does anyone know what are the std ones are equal to in these measurements? Cheers, TJS

Hi gang, Every tuner I have spoken to either prefers a particular injector or drills out your existing ones when they give it a custom tune. Does it matter? Should I just let them do what they advise? Or, if I can get good injectors cheap, will I save on a tune? Or will the tuner say nah mate dont use them. I am looking for a mild tune to get me close to 350rwkw - nothing wild. They all say they can do that with just a tune and injectors. Is there a minimum flow rate I should be looking for to get 350? What are your experiences with your choice of injectors (or your tuner's choice as it may have been..)? Cheers, TJS .

I had mine replaced - it wouldn't complete a cycle when on intermittent but the other 2 speeds were OK - but prob only happened in v cold weather. Ford said they have had a few of these already...

They will both pull up the same under emerg conditions. The 6pots will just do it more before fading. I have an F6-E and have driven plenty of std F6s. I have faded the 6 pots plenty of times so even they don't stack up against a racing setup - fluid and all. The 6's do. however, require less pedal effort which could result in them seeming more effective in a one-off situation. Also, the stock pads in my car were sh!tful, dirty and poor in the wet. Replaced with Hawk Ceramic - much better. Finally, tyres & shocks will play a bigger role in quick stops than the calipers. If you still have the Slumlops then serves you right and you ain't never gonna stop really well regardless of your brakes... Finally, finally, if you want to upgrade then stay away from Ford and go to Vsport. There are even better 6pot setups avail brom Brembo (they have a few) and you can go up to about 380m discs too if you are really keen. But seriously guys, if youy have already got 4s on the front, spend the money on something else that you are going to get something noticeable from - like engine, or shocks/springs/tyres/pads or tuning.

2010 FG F6-E build 011 Silhouette (used to be Frosty's car !)

OK so have had the Toyos on the rear for a few weeks now - wet and dry. What a difference! I have to deliberately want to get the back end out now otherwise it just grips with a little squealing. If I floor it, well no 255 road tyre is going to reel in that torque. The difference between the Toyo's Static and Dynamic coefficients of friction is very little. The Slumlops had a vast divide between these two numbers. This meant that once the Dumlops broke loose, you had to back off the throttle a long way before you gained grip again - and then only to do it all over again every few seconds. Meanwhile, that stock Honda Accord has just blown you off and is laughing at you all the way to the trye shop.... In corners they don't seem to have the sidewall stiffness of the Dumbslops but surprisingly seem to hang on better - and give lots of warning before they give up. I liken the Sport Slaxx to the old BF Goddrich Radial TAs of the 1980s. Barely OK in the dry but skittish as hell in the wet. In the wet the Toyos are composed and seem to have better straight line traction than sideways - I still like the Slops on the front as they have v good lateral grip in the wet and I don't care about their straight line grip. Their tread directionality I think plays a good part in their lateral performance. But go the Toyos Proxes T1 Sport !!! And an agressive price hunt got these for me at only $365 a piece fitted and ballanced - a bargain! but BIGGEST LESSON everyone, is to get your rear toe-in adjustment checked as even an ever-so slight mismatch will result in dramatic differences in tyre wear between the inside and outside of the tyre. Evidently (the guy said) Falcoms are notorius for their rear end to loose toe. Gutters and pothole/speedhumps are our enemy here guys so get it checked. For me, this also help the car go a little less sideways when the wheels did loose traction - this could be seen as a god or a bad thing...

Just swapped the rear dumlops for Toyo Proxes T1 Sport - awesome difference. Running 8" std F6E rims with 255/30/19s. Still have the dumlops on the front but no complaints there - actually not a bad front tyre, but s*#tfull for the rear. After a bit of a run in the Toyos are responsive, grippy and give HEAPS of warning before letting go. Sport Slaxx offered none - it was either grip or butter. With TC off and in manual I am getting slammed back in the seat for the 1/2 and 2/3 changes rather getting the arse end out with the std tyres. Yet to try them in the wet but research tells me they are again better. Supposedly same wear rating (240) but my rears were half gone when I picked the car up at 6,000kms last year. It's now 28,000kms and the rears are smooth as (Frosty was the previous owner so I can't be too upset with the tryes - would you?). We will see what I get out of these...

Just swapped the rear dumlops for Toyo Proxes T1 Sport - awesome difference. Running 8" std F6E rims with 255/30/19s. Still have the dumlops on the front but no complaints there - actually not a bad front tyre, but s*#tfull for the rear. After a bit of a run in the Toyos are responsive, grippy and give HEAPS of warning before letting go. Sport Slaxx offered none - it was either grip or butter. With TC off and in manual I am getting slammed back in the seat for the 1/2 and 2/3 changes rather getting the arse end out with the std tyres. Yet to try them in the wet but research tells me they are again better. Supposedly same wear rating (240) but my rears were half gone when I picked the car up at 6,000kms last year. It's now 28,000kms and the rears are smooth as (Frosty was the previous owner so I can't be too upset with the tryes - would you?). We will see what I get out of these...

FG F6 does exactly 1.0 bar - below 20 degrees air temp and 1000 milibars air pres - or just over 14 psi. Mine does get that but it's rarely below 20 degrees outside since I bought it in Nov. When it's hot it still gets just over 0.9 on the factory gauge which is 13 psi. If I find the link I will post this page that has very complete & detailed specs and measurements for all FPVs - a great read !

Thx MexBat, Not against buying anything if it will help but did not want to spend a cent if someone knew exactly what was rqd to fix it. And yes will be getting a sunshade anyway (prob a few for the side windows too). I have put Calciums in my last 3 cars - they are actually great value for money. But none of those cars ever gave up the ghost just cos it was a bit hot outside - my Land Cruiser never missed a beat even parked in 50 deg desert sun - I know I know FPVs are great but they are certainly no Toyota when it comes to robust reliability. That said, I will certainly not swap my FPV for a Cruiser again quite yet....

Has anyone experienced inserting their key only to be told that the engine is immobilised? It happens on really hot days when the car has been parked in the sun and it will start eventually after 5 or 6 attempts at locking up, unlocking, then trying again. Service tech said that there were many "under-voltage" errors in the ecu's log and it did have some corrosion on the terminals but even after cleaning and re-setting - same again. The steering column gets so hot in the sun that the key would almost be too hot to touch even after only being in the ignition socket for a couple of minutes. I know the factory batteries are crappy and this one's a year old - but want to put off investing in a $220 Calcium battery quite yet. I have thought of a hundred possible causes but I am really looking for someone that has the same symptoms rather than just more suggestions at what it might be. If I attempted all of my own suggestions I would spend thousands and still not guarantee a fix.