dustyae86

was walking in Mordialloc today and a BA ute dosed hard and an old granny walking past me went JESUS!!!

have you tried ducting better, like so the air that has the opportunity to go in that area is forced through rather than blowing out the sides? you would be surprised the difference this can make

10k to me sounds like a pretty good budget. most of the stuff has been covered except the brake side, I personally wouldn't go EBC greens on a road car, you will end up crying in weeks that they are too noisy and so on Good year eagle F1's haven't heard of those for years, but if they are still the same sh*t tread pattern they used to be they get VERY noisy as soon as the get some camber wear on them, if you want a nice sticky tyre, as suggested the nitto invos seem like a good tyre or my suggestion is bridgestone potenza re003 have ran these on another car (well the earlier re002) and they are an amazing tyre

potentially possible, I would probably indicate that it's occurring under power out of corners when you're unweightin the inside front and smashing it all to the opposite end outer, but unfortunately, I'm sort of point towards a strut brace doing sweet f all. cage time for you

I'm sure I could look around but since I'm lazy, any pics of fg's running ssl, to be honest I don't want to go much lower on the front but the rear needs to go down lots

My understanding is rear ends are the same over models, only difference being the diffs themselves? Also airbags would have been deployed because the SRS module would have sensed a decrease in lateral G's so thought it was getting a hit from the side... which it was, just from the gutter

in my opinion it doesn't look terribly bad, the big cost is going to be the airbags, which will probably have to be bought new, new arms etc... then new SRS module since the bags have been deployed. But like has been suggested, if you have space park it up for a bit, buy a little run around so you can work and save up some coin and do it bit by bit That bent mount can probably be bent back, obviously not ideal, but if there was any huge stress on it then the welds would be cracked

is there a common compression reading these cars get in good health mick? I'm curious/paranoid now so maybe I'll do a comp test and leak down test on it and see if I get anything

They're a really really good brake, like has been said we ran them in race cars, so for your road car they will be fine, unsure on pad compounds you can get for them to suit the street though, there is bound to be something, next would be AP if you're looking at spending that sort of coin

pros: sound tough cons: can't run a cat or much in the way of mufflers

No disrespect inteneded to some of the other people on here, but I'm 100% with ratter on this one, when an engine is built the valves are seated to form a SEAL on the head, if like has been stated the valves were bent in the past it would be very noticeable, generally when a valve hits a piston it will generally break a bit off the head of the valve or else bend the shaft not allowing the valve to retract properly and then causing it to break the head off, this wouldn't happen years later, it would happen minutes later. Also regarding cars jumping teeth, it was my car that jumped 2 teeth and sounded absolutely horrible!! but in my opinion also it is exactly what was stated that causes it, sudden jumping off of the throttle, when mine did it, I had just came out of around about and accelerated in second then made alast minute decision to get red rooster and jumped off the throttle quickly at around 4000rpm. so the theory is, that the sudden jump makes the tensioner retract back but it still has quiet a bit of mechanical force on the engine then bam jumped teeth. Is there a fix? I honestly don't think so, just driving style I think, until someone releases a slightly stronger tensioner (which could cause it's own issues) my chain guide didn't really have any big chunks out of it, but it was a case of better safe than sorry. So there is my rant, so in the opinion of 2 qualified mechanics saying it wasn't due to the timing issue it's not looking great sorry to say

We are always told if running cameras that you need to have a cable tie over the case to hold the camera on, I think it's so if it does come out it's not rolling around the floor and getting stuck under pedals etc... but as usual, depends on the scrutineer

Yeh that will be sweet, I'm running a 19x10.5 in +22 and it sits good, +12 is pretty much flush

gimme gimme a prize, I think there is a good chance mick that it chipped off a bit like mine, but the guide actually needs to be removed to check it?

will bet money that it has jumped a tooth or two