Reidos

Old thread now but hopefully someone can help. I replaced my master on my typhoon (4 pot fronts) with the b227-109. This is the same part number as what came off but also the same part number for my na xr6 with 2 pot fronts... Is this right? I would have thought the master would be different considering the brakes are different?

My Exhaust-modified BF N/A XR6 does 6l/100 and I can get over 700km out of a tank. Edit: Sorry for the bad quality. video is clear as day on the original file, but youtube seems to compress it a lot, even at 720p. If you look closely you see the constant economy going between 5.9 to 6.3l/100 http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/32/photopg.png/

if anyone is interested edit: Video is clearer on my phone, when I uploaded it, it came out a bit blurry but you can see the constant economy reading sitting between 5.9-6.3

I have extractors, hi flow cat and 2 1/2" cat back custom made, K&N panel.. very basic mods on a BF N/A and I'm getting 6l/100 at around 100-110... Anyone else getting these results? I took a video if anyone wants to see?

I suppose it depends how used to the gearbox you are, but I always make sure if I'm going from 3rd to 2nd that I always check the screen because if it does change to first at least you can see on your dash about half a second before if goes in, and I just quickly flick right and up into neutral then back down and left and it will cancel it all out, in an emergency situation. That way you can always beat it even if it does jump into first, as soon as you hit neutral it will cancel.

Hey guys, not sure if this has been covered but I have read numerous threads from people who get an exhaust system of a bf, say 'extractors and cat' and then get a constant check engine light and don't know what to do without spending 100s of dollars.. I just recently had this problem but it was all fixed for free. Not saying it is completely free but I just knew the right people. Anyway all that was done was I had my second o2 sensor moved away from the direct flow of exhaust gasses by a few centimeters and then had a mechanic plug in their diagnostic computer to clear the code. Problem solvered. Apparently you can buy an adapter that moves the sensor back a few cms for about 100 bucks but mine was just done by adding a small extra bit of thread and it took about 1 minute. Hit up your exhaust dealer and see what they can do. My guy said Expensive Daewoo and a few other companies already do this so I hope this helps you guys having the same problem. (null)

I almost always drive in manual mode when taking off or slowing down but cruising it either perf or normal. The kick down in manual is due to pressing a little button when the pedal is pushed all the way in. You should be able to feel when you press the little button. (null)

Foonin, I have the same problem. Though it is in my front rhs wheel. I couldn't place the noise at first but I jacked the car up and spun the front wheel. It should be completely silent but it wasn't. I've put it down to a wheel bearing. Hoping to have it fixed within the next week.

Thanks for all the replies guys, and I can agree with most of you there. I'm not after an obnoxiously loud car, but I love to hear my cars. The thing about this pos Late model camira that I like it the fact that you have absolutely no idea it's running when you stand next to it. It's so quiet. But anything over I think 3-3500 revs and it screams. So in saying that, it can be driven very quietly and it's only loud when you put your foot down, and I don't quite understand how it works. As far as my car goes, it's not a turbo, but it's got extractors and everything from there to the tip is custom made and I love the sound it makes. It's got the snap crackle and pop that I like, and it's really unique. I can't drive it silently but it can go quiet enough, but since hearing this commodore, I think I want something like this -quiet at idle and cruise, screamer at full noise- I think the straight six would sound beautiful. I know a lot of people would agree that 6s can sound terrible, but if done right, they can sound beautiful.

Sounds like a 2 stroke full noise to me lol. I'll get some details.

Caught him coming into work before. I can see him getting into a lot of trouble, but I just don't understand how it got so loud??

Touché. Thanks for the reply Senna, I appreciate it.

Hey guys. I'm facing a dilemma currently. So I live in a small town of about 300 people and for a while, my car has been the loudest in town, considering the only other cars that could even compete were crappy vs commodores lol. So anyway, a mate of mine bought a brand new sv6 ute, and got some extractors and a quad tip setup. He had nothing on me as far as sound, maybe a little bit of burble but it was very tame. Now here's the bad part. He got rid of whatever he had and now has straight through J pipes. And now his car hurts your ears from 5km away. It is unreal how loud this thing is over say 3000rpm but it's so quiet at idle. What the hell??? I've never heard a car so loud. What are j pipes and how would they go on a BF XR6? I'm jealous :( sorry for the big write up.

I've just read this thread from start to finish, and I'm so eager to see what this thing makes. Sounds like a total weapon. You must have the patience of a Buddhist monk. Look forward to seeing this car finished mate.

I didn't read it. I drove mine to its limits on a private road and it cut out at 205 at about 4k revs or somewhere close to that. I've done this plenty of times and you can feel it just cut out and that speed and you know there's plenty more to go. It's the same feeling as when you rev in neutral and it stops at 3 grand. This was in a bf, so if yours was a different model it would make more sense.

Aren't they limited to 205?

Does it still take about 1 and a half seconds to change in manual mode or does the tune make it more instant?

I'm from Brisbane but due to work I've been in Dirranbandi for the last 7 months (woop woop). It makes it hard to find a tuner or anything car related but the only exception is an exhaust shop an hour from my town.

Lol I suppose that could work haha. I think maybe I'll look for a standard BF cat that I can plug the sensor into, and keep the high flow for my next falcon possibly. I might head up to my exhaust guy when I get time off work and figure something out. I don't want a bad rep for dodging up a car to sell Appreciate the help though guys. Reid.

Yeah he did unscrew it to remove it, but had nothing to screw it into with the aftermarket parts, which is why I think he made up a pretend part on the cat to screw it into, but it didn't work. If I get a flash box, can I do this myself? And will I be able to keep this box once I upgrade to a T? I can live with the light, but I don't want to sell it with the light on so I may have to get the flash box I'd say. Thanks for the replies guys.

BF N/A with extractors, hi flow and catback and k&n panel filter, 0-100 in 7.30. Didn't stall it up as the wheels would slip. The car felt like it had a lot more in it if I got the right take off.

Hi all. Firstly, I'm sorry if this has been asked before, I've seen a few similar threads but I still don't think I can cure my problem. I have a BF N/A XR6 and my first mods were a catback custom exhaust and a k&n filter, simple mods. I had these for a while and then went on a few months later to some extractors and hi flow cat. The problem I've found is since I got the extractors and cat, I've had a constant engine light on my dash, which reads as an 02 sensor. After installation I picked up on this and the guy doing my exhaust said the car just needs to adjust to the mods and to give it a couple 100ks. Well it never turned off so the guy sent me to his mate with a computer to clear the code. Hooray, the code has gone.... 50ks later it's back on, so this didn't work :( we put the car back on the hoist and the exhaust guy made a phone call. I think (this is about a year ago) we worked out that the extractors (or cat, I forgot) were ordered for a BA, which if I am correct, only has one oxygen sensor, and the BFs have 2? So the one I was missing was just behind the cat. The exhaust guy thought he would try to weld on a nut and hook up a sensor so the computer thinks there are 2 there, but this didn't work either. The only way I can get past this is unplugging the battery to reset the computer, and sometimes I can get 500kms out of it before it recognizes the fault again. It doesn't really bother me too much although I've heard that if the engine light is illuminated, the car won't run at it's full potential (can someone clarify this?) My main concern now, is that I want to sell the car for a turbo, but I don't want the next buyer to think I sold them a lemon because the engine light is on. Ps, I've checked the code multiple times and it is only the oxygen sensor so there are no other problems. Sorry for the long post, I hope somone can help. Reid.

Lol so is my QLD plate.

Is that the right interior (aircon/radio panel) for an 07 model? Or is the dual climate control and optional extra?

Was that a blue f6 with TYFQQN plates? I got a fraud email regarding this too.