XxAcidBurn21xX

So after abit of playing around it turned out to be a broken earth wire :/ ... Thanks everyone for the help and I''' be back with a dyno sheet next week

yeh like I said I've just recently had the btr4 overhauled (new solenoids aswell to the best of my knowledge) and was running well, so I dont know if that error is what causing it to not fire...

so its off the ac lines? makes sense... Hmm so that's makes it harder :/

Hi everyone Ive just recently had my entire engine out as it was overhauled and now that I have it all back in and hooked up it doesnt want to run. I removed the air con compressor and replaced it with one of the delete brackets with the pulley on it that you can buy. I have everything like injectors, throttle body, coil packs etc plugged in correctly and have a good battery with 12v+ at the starter motor. I have noticed that I have two plugs that come out of the same part of the wiring loom fairly close together, one plug was for the air con compressor, the other I'm at a loss for. Its a 3 pin plug and can reach about 120 - 130mm away from the old, smaller 2pin compressor plug. Can anyone tell me what is it for? Also will leaving the old air con compressor lead unplugged cause me any issues? Ive plugged in my my sct tuner and flashed the new tune map that came with the injectors (bought as a package, am getting a custom tune asap, just need to test start) After several attempts at starting I plugged back in and did an DTC read and got the error code P0743 which is apparently a torque convertor clutch solenoid problem, will this stop the car from starting? The gearbox was rebuilt with a 3200rpm stall convertor and various other parts about 10,000ks ago so is still fairly new. When I turn the key I get all dash lights and fuel pump primes. I can hear a relay or something tick lightly when I turn to ignition but no cranking at all.

7psi I think

Car was vcm tuned years ago and was making 265rwkw with just an exhaust and growler CAI and running stock 6-7psi, was hoping 12psi with my other mods would get me at least 330+

Im looking to build a tough street car and have it be very reliable and not likely to go bang. At the current time im looking just to service my turbo and get what I can outta it until money permits me to get something better. Porting the wastegate and getting a bigger flapper won't be too hard and I already plan to get the 12lb actuator... What kinda power do u think I could make if I did this and ran somewhere around 10 - 12psi?

Yep I think im going to have to pull the timing cover back off so I can change the pump gears.... The motor will be pretty solid but I'm thinking my standard turbo will be the limiting factor as to how much power it will produce at the end. Ive heard about 12psi is the most you can get outta the 35/40 without changing housing etc, is that about right? Also does the wastegate need to be ported to safely run 10psi?

Hi everyone Let me start off by saying I have been an avid follower of the forums for sometime but rarely post as I usually find the answers Im after just by browsing. Its a great community here and Im hoping to aquire some of the vast knowledge floating around in here. Ok so I have had my 03 BA xr6t for about 5yrs ( it has 205,000ks) now with a few minor probs along the way but nothing major until recently when the torque convertor in the btr4 sh*t itself. So while getting the box rebuilt I decided I'd get a 3200rpm hi-stall convertor put in it for abit more launch... So of course the first time I tried to really use the stallie I spun a main bearing. So time for a rebuild, I pulled the whole donk apart, cleaned and inspected everything and am part way through my build (cams are back in but rocker cover is still off). I will list the parts I already have followed by what I havent yet purchased but plan on getting. Id love some opinions on parts and what you think I should realisticly aim for in terms of safe, drivable rwkw for a street car. (plan to run 10 - 11 psi) Car currently has: ACL big and small end race bearingsJE Forged Pistons and Spool ConrodsPlazmaman Valves SpringsARP head studsFull exforce exhaust 4"dump 5"cat 3.5" back into dual 2.5"HDI GT2 Intercooler with F6 hot side pipingGrowler CAIBuilt BTR 4 with 3200rpm stall and oil cooler255lph pump and fuel regulatorNew bits like Timing chain and tensioner, harmonic balancer, coils and plugs, water pump, rad hoses etcParts I plan to buy: Bosch or siemens injectorsSCT x3 Flash TunerAtomic Chrome molly billet flex plateGarrett or Turbosmart 12psi ActuatorIm abit worried that I didnt change the oil pump gears out for billet gears. How good are the standard gears? Thanks in advance to every1 who took time to read and reply

First off a big hello to everyone here! Ive just signed up 2 the forums and am loving it already! Ok abit about my beast, I have a 4sp auto 03 BA xr6t. List of it mods are: *Full Stainless Xforce exhaust system 4" Dumpy into hiflow cat into a 3.5"inch thru to the muffler into dual 2.5" tips. *Growler Cold Air Intake. *Tranny Cooler. *Reconditioned Stock Gearbox. *Custom Dyno Tune but is still running stock boost and the dyno sheets show 270rwkw. I had the gearbox sent to Melbourne 2 years ago when I started my build to have it fully recon'd and a 3500rpm stall converter installed. Long story short the larger stally never made it into the box :S which I was furious about. Neways over the last 2 years the car has started shifting rough at the lower half of the rev range. I replaced the rear center bush in the diff with a nulon 1 as the old 1 had a crack in it and I gave the tranny a new filter and fluid but it didnt fix my problem. So I think its about time I upgraded the transmission as I have heard pretty average things about these particular gearboxes. Any transmission builds and opinions would be greatly appreciated Also Im looking to gain abit more low end torque as my launches suck without a good stall converter, would new valve springs and injectors help much? Thanks guys hope 2 c u all out there!