Ale

and Like I said, the sensor is used to read the AFR in the tail pipe, it has the smarts inside it that make the magic happen. But the magic can only happen using the micro chip in the gauge which controls the heat cycle within the sensor and turns the "magic" from the sensor into a Display. This is where the gauges differ and if you read, many do say that how each gauge does this may effect sensor life. When my Guage thur the E8 error, I rung Innovate, and the first thing they said was update the Firm ware and then re calibrate the sensor. After finding a laptop from the dark ages, I updated the firmware (emember the gauge was bought from them less than a year ago) but the E8 error was still there. They then said the next step was to throw a sensor at it, which got the gauge going again. I've laid out the facts of my failure and under what circumstances, admitted the use of these on a rotary is less than ideal, make up your own mind if its suits you.

I agree mate, and have mentioned the above traits in my posts, but from my reading after the event, others have had better success using other brand gauges on their rotaries. Where my gauge is mounted the EGTS would be low , even at WOT and we aren’t talking a methanol race car on the 2 step and 45psi, it’s a street car on 98. May very well be the case of “you only ever hear the bad”, but if you google MTX failures, it’s not un common

Yeh, was bummed,hopefully this one lasts longer. $100 latter and I've probs done 200kms on the new sensor . My tuner prefers his cars to have bungs in the front pipe of his regular cars, I have 2, one for the gauge, and one opposite in the same section for the dyno that gets bunged when not being tuned. My Rotary is only on 98 too. They do work work well though, and IMO, 100x more important to have than a boost guage Only really 2 sensors on the market, Bosch and NGK, both would require the same micro chip to be used in the gauge for them to read the afr. From my reading neither has better life span, but the NGK one is graded as a lab spec sensor. Once shopping for a new sensor, it becomes very obvious the Bosch LSU 4.9 is used on millions of cars world wide with service lives in thousands of kms on OEM applications. I think the difference lays in the software used to warm up the sensor in aftermarket gauges , some times under extreme conditions for extended periods. Dont even bother with running them in race cars, the heat, pressures and vibrations plus the methanol has them die quicker than Apex seals ???

Ive had a MTX for a year on my turbo Rotary, sensor died within 2000km of street use. Innovate wheren't overalls helpfull and a bit of a pain to liaise with due to time zones. I'd made sure to wire n plumb the unit 100% as per instructions knowing the reputation the company has for warranty claims. After explaining to them the short sensor life they just said: #cosrotary. Well documented that the sensors don't like rich mixtures n oil in the fuel, but others have had much success with other brands in Rotaries. My tuner does alot of rotaries and said his sensors last a lot longer than that on his dyno, hopefully I just got a dud one first up. Communication to the gauge is via serial port aswell which is very 2005.... If I was to purchase again , I'd buy this : https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/103_107/products_id/357/

Nice diff work Ralph , kudos!! me, not quiet so fancy, not even today, but a couple weeks ago I fired up the mig and slapped together a 4" drain n cat pipe for the taxi. All done for $250 in materias inc the 5" cat over a few beers on a sat arvo.

Cheers for advising. Hopefully Ultrex see this post and chime in. Wasn't that long ago they had a rep on here spruiking the product.

These fkrs caused me a major headache with my BF, sold me the "right " centre bearing, but I had to "make" it fit (should've sent it back) only to find the car had a slight vib at 60km/hr. After taking the car to ford for them to do their "black magic " on car balance trick it was still crap... They then took the shaft to Hard spicer here in Adelaide, where I had to pay them to put the "right" bearing on the shaft , then back to ford for more black magic. Still was wrong, so the shaft went back to Hardy only for them to admit they didn't balance it properly. Non of it was Fords fault, so I had to cough up for the 2 doses of back magic even though I highly doubt it makes any difference if the shaft is correctly assembled and balanced in the first place...fk I don't miss that B series, I had so much bad with it

Hahahahaha, tune em lean, keep em mean ??

Looks like after today you may get another chance

Not sure why they bothered to import such a vanilla car all the way from Japan for it, but yeh what evs. First mighty mod episode I've watched in whole, was cool. Thing sounded rank but would be pretty fun.

Amazingly the trans pops up for sale on Facebook the next week...

I gave up once I worked out the topic was heading towards Tuunna wars instead of competitive drag racing

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Pro stock is a class for NA aspirated V8. Cube limited, clutchless manual transmissions and heads up tree. Highly competitive and thus all the serious guys in the states update ever year. These chassis's then filter down to other classes/countries and tweaked to fit in. Not sure if Dions has actually raced in any competitive meets up until last weeks Winternationals. He raced in the Factory Extreme class. Yes, he is the only Barra in the class, mainly against 2Js, VGs, RBs n 20Bs First pass from this vid is the pointy end :

Well, the cars he is up against in that class are running low 6s n high 5s with manuals, so forget his achievements in regards to Barra motors, he is a long way behind his competition when it comes to winning drag races