TER80D

Ok, so the rebuild is complete and shifting up gears is now smooth again. Down shifting is also smooth except for 3-2 however Joe tells me that this is normal and that the ZF is still learning. I'll let you know how it goes (Joe from CMS told me it'll take up to 1,000km's before the box settles properly)

I think I know the exact feeling you have. It's like if you're holding constant speed you are sitting in the seat and ever so gently rocking back and forth a couple of times a second. I also have an 09 G6E Turbo and my shifts in the ZF have been progressively getting worse and worse after the rocking sensation started (No idea if it's the same for you). I did a transmission flush with a new heat exchanger (The old fluid came out somewhat black but no water contamination) but this didn't fix it. It's now going over to Joe @ Crescent Motorsport for a rebuild on Saturday. I'll let you know how I go after the rebuild to see if it resolves it. The other way I could describe the sensation is also like it has a slight miss or someone is very lightly tapping the brakes on and off. As an FYI too, my car was showing absolutely no fault codes either so it's making diagnosis all the more difficult.

Pics attached. Car is on a slight angle so the darker pics of the passenger side are more accurate in terms of ride height. I still have the mud flaps on and they scrape on practically every speed bump but with them removed will probably clear most normal road obstacles.

Lol, that last pic reminds me of the ZF service I did. So damn messy without a drain plug. Gotta be happy with the colour of that trans oil, looks practically new. You have a pretty nice setup for doing services too, very neat.

Well, took it back to the tuners today and had them take a look at it. Picked it up this afternoon and after talking to the tuner he completely agreed that the tune was all over the shop and said he jumped on the phone with Herrod to get an idea of what was going on. From the way he explained it to me, when tuning a Falcon you don't simply pull the stock tune out, modify it and then pump it back into the car you use something called a tear tag number printed on the sticker on the inside of the drivers side door to get a copy of what the stock map should look like and then go from there. He said that it was a combination of his software being out of date and my tear tag not correctly identifying the stock image in my ECU which meant the computer had no idea wtf to think when the tune was loaded in. So long story short is that after all the software issues were sorted the tune is a million times better and the graphs look exactly like I imagine they should with a smooth power curve pulling strongly all the way to redline. For those who made constructive comments a big thank you.

I do agree mate. It's just that this is my first tuned turbo Falcon and I wanted to get some idea if I'm being a tool and the graphs make sense or if they don't I can at least go in with the facts and not look like an idiot in the process.

Place in Newcastle called Brakes at the Bay / Streamline Automotive. They are the local Walkinshaw dealer over here and for all intents and purposes should be quite capable at tuning almost any car and have done a decent few Turbo Falcon tunes. I'm just a little disappointed that after spending $1,450 for the SCT unit and a tune that I've come away with what looks more like a generic tune rather than the full custom one I paid for. I called them and spoke to the tuner and he said to bring it in so he can clean the high boost tune up but I think it's a bit poor that they released it to me in the first place and I think both tunes need much more work. I really don't want to go bad mouthing them without giving them an opportunity to correct it but they haven't given me alot of confidence. I'm certainly no engine tuner but surely the power curve and boost curves shouldn't be that wavy ? And the way the high boost tune noses over above 4800 rpm is concerning.

Just had my G6E Turbo tuned yesterday and the dyno graphs look pretty ordinary to me. The tuner gave me 2 tunes, one marked as "High Boost" and another labelled as "Low Boost". In the graphs the pink line is the High Boost tune and the red is the Low Boost one. The car really doesn't feel right and doesn't feel as strong on the Low Boost tune as stock and is just woefully all over the shop on the High Boost tune. The other seriously strange thing is that the High Boost tune noses over and dips significantly below the Low Boost tune above around 4800 RPM despite running between 2 to 3 psi more between that RPM and redline over the Low Boost tune. Mods done to the car at the time of tune were 100cpi Venom Cat, PWR stepped Intercooler, Coolerworx piping kit and a set of Bosch 968 injectors. Anyone care to look at these and give some feedback ?

Creaking noise is now gone for me but the dust is starting to irritate me like Bomber. I think in a couple of weeks I'll be swapping them out for something else cause I'm one of those people that wash his car every few days to keep it looking nice. Probably the Ferodo's or even stock pads since the DBA's will have improved performance plenty enough for the street.

The other thing too is that you were worried about warranty by putting cams in the thing but as soon as you get it tuned your warranty is out the door anyway.

Yep, the GT Sport ones are specifically for short springs made by King Springs and are "Strongly Recommended" when using SSL and lower springs. I have the GT sport shocks and SSL springs all round. Makes the 19's fill the guards perfectly but I'm still not 100% sure I like it at this height. I can only assume that using the SSL springs with standard shocks would make the car sit higher than SSL springs+GT Shocks so it's probably gonna drop a bit from what it is now

Yeah, I've learnt to live with that one. What I had was driving at about 30km/h and it started almost bunny hopping as though I was pushing the clutch in and out really quick causing it to drop about 10km/h in speed each time. As a side note, BMW did issue a software update to resolve the harsh 2 - 1 shift but apparently makes the 2 - 3 shift sloppy lol. Such genius German engineering but they just can't get the software right. Must be running Windows or something

I've only driven it twice since and it's much better. Ride is smooth and the shifts are barely even noticeable now whereas before they were getting harsher and harsher. The rocking feeling is gone and time will tell if the lurch that I experienced once is now gone too.

I threw a set of Remsa pads onto my G6ET about a week ago now along with some DBA 4000 T3's all round and while they do an excellent job of pulling the car up, the dust they produce is crazy. I would rate the Ford OEM pads as about a 3/10 for dust but these things are at least a 7/10 maybe even an 8/10. Mine also make a creaking/groaning noise when they are cold and I'm moving slowly or the last metre when coming to a stop at traffic lights but this might be them still bedding in or more the rotors fault. Great price @ $158 for front and rears from GSL Rally Sport/Brakes Direct but I think I'll see how they go and if the dust drives me insane I'll throw some Ferodo Performance pads in and see how they go. I'd also love to see how a set of the DBA 4000 T3's along with a new set of Factory pads would go for street duties.

We had access to a hoist that made the process a hell of alot easier but the method we used was: 1. Drop the pan and dump all the oil into a bucket (messy as hell) 2. Install new filter and gasget. Clean the pan and wipe off excess clutch material from the two magnets in the bottom and replace the pan by torquing up the bolts in a specific sequence to 12nm +- 1nm (Need a small torque wrench as most big ones don't go this low) 3. Disconnect the outlet oil pipe going from the gearbox to the heat exchanger at the heat exchanger end and connect it a long piece of clear tubing going into a bucket 3. Pump as much Syntrans in through the filler hole until it starts coming out the filler hole 4. One person then starts the car and puts it through the gears while the other person is pumping trans fluid in at about the same rate as it's coming out. Buckets that are at least partially transparent help here. We also had a pump unit that screwed directly onto the cap thread of the Syntans bottle making it easy 5. Once the oil flowing out of the outlet through the clear pipe is a constant red colour the same as the Syntrans, stop the car, reconnect the oil outlet pipe from the ZF back into the heat exchanger and then pump a little more oil in 6. Depending if the oil temp is still below 40 degrees you can then proceed to run through the filling procedure in the PDF from the link at the bottom and do a final level check. If the temp is too high, wait for a while to allow oil to cool down and then do final level check Doing it this way I pretty much used up the entire 20L drum and had all of a litre to a litre and a half left over but I did let it run for a couple of litres after the fluid coming out was a constant red to ensure a good flush. For the temp sensing I borrowed a laser thermometer from my old man and it made the final level check easy. All up it took about 5 hours to dump the coolant, flush the box, replace the heat exchanger, fill coolant system again and then take it for a test run. One ridiculous thing was that the steel pan fitted to my car has no drain plug so the only way to drop the oil at the start is to drop the pan full of oil and unless you have a huge catch pan, oil goes everywhere. https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&ved=0CD8QFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.xoutpost.com%2Fattachments%2Fx5-e53-forum%2F35525d1249245178-help-fluid-fill-tranny-04-4-4i-index-zf-traans.pdf&ei=9pIXUYr-NOWfiAfPx4A4&usg=AFQjCNEi9bzS8u6pLM1kSih1DmFDz0E_AQ&bvm=bv.42080656,d.aGc

Well, I did the flush today and thankfully for me and my wallet I didn't have any milkshake looking substance in my gearbox. The oil was definitely dirty (To give you an idea, once I had a 20L bucket a bit under half full it was utterly pitch black) but it had no coolant in it at all from what I could tell. I'm pretty happy but after seeing what could have possibly been, I'm going to order an oil to air heat exchanger and go from there. Jet, unfortunately I didn't get an opportunity to check the levels. My mate who was helping me (Well, I was helping him since he's a BMW master tech and I'm a mechanical novice) had already cracked the bolts on the pan before I could ask otherwise. On the subject of the Gulf Western Syntrans, the box shifts superbly now and is heaps smoother than before thank god. I reckon for the awesome price of $165 for 20L of the Syntrans it's awesome stuff and makes a ZF flush not only worthwhile but economical as well. I recon I'll still be going strong quite a few Km's from now too. The Ford coolant had also turned a brownish colour and I'm glad it's been flushed out for new stuff. The replacement heat exchanger I installed was the bigger F6 one and it had a yellow dot on it with a manufacture date of May 2012 with a part number of 8r2z7a095-cd I have no idea what caused my issues in the first place and it may well have been low levels but I'm glad I know the ZF is good to go since it gets tuned on Friday.

Yeah, definitely will do. I've already bought the service kit and the Syntrans so I'll do the full flush and service anyways but just for curiosity's sake I'll look at the level and hope it's just running a bit low. Going to do it this Friday night so I'll post results once it's done

Yeah, definitely going to change the coolant too. Figured the procedure would be to drop the pan, dump the oil, dump the coolant, install new heat exchanger, fill with coolant, fill ZF with oil and hope for the best. I've read a few times now about the torque converter constantly locking and unlocking but I have no idea what sort of symptoms that produces cause I'm not much of an expert when it comes to transmissions :-S Definitely hear you Jet about the external cooler, I just want to see how this exercise pans out and when tax time rolls around I'll throw the $700 or so at it and get rid of the crap that is the Ford heat exchanger. Is the fact that my coolant reservoir is clean of oil a good indication that the box hasn't downed a litre or two of water ?

Hi Guys, I have a 2009 G6E Turbo with 46,000 k's on the clock and lately the ZF has been a little weird. I don't really know how to explain it but when driving it's like it's constantly slowing down and speeding up and gives the sensation that you are ever so gently rocking back and forth. The engine revs don't really move and shifting feels fine in manual mode but shifts in auto mode just feel sorta slow and doughy like I'm slipping the clutch a bit too much in a manual. I've bought a 20L drum of Gulf Western Syntrans and am going to do a flush and replace the heat exchanger (My coolant reservoir looks fine so I don't think I have the dreaded milkshake). I'm just in two minds if I should take it into Ford first before changing to non genuine oil in case they blame it on that. Anyone got any idea's of what the possible issues could be and if the flush is likely to fix it ?

Cheers spinr33, exactly what I needed to know :good: Much appreciated mate

Hi Guys, About to do a Diff oil change in my G6E Turbo and am wondering what oil I need given that it's not an LSD. I've seen references to Penrite or Nulon 80W140 but am unsure if this is for the LSD or the open wheeler in the G6E T Thanks

Cheers Paulie For others, part numbers are: Front Pads: 1035.00 to Suit 322mm rotor Rear Pads: 335.10 to suit 303mm rotor

Does anyone know the part number for Remsa pads that suit the DBA T3 42107S front rotors and DBA 4505S rear rotors. It's proving impossible to find any info on the net Cheers

Probably only ever want to run the car down the quarter once or twice to see how it goes so mainly for looks and street performance. If I was going to buy something for the car it has to at least equal or better the OEM gear and it sounds like the copies are cheap sh*te

Just wondering what the real difference between genuine FPV wheels and the aftermarket copies are ? For example, a set of 19" Genuine Dark Argents go for around $2,500 whereas non genuine copies go for around $1,200 I have always had it in my head that I would rather the genuine wheels but not really known why. Is there actually any difference in quality, weight or performance ?