
adamw
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Everything posted by adamw
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give me a wave if you see me around I'm in an ego (dark grey) BF2 with badges removed from the back and skirts. fitting some silver mesh (from themeshman) to the front grille today and the C&V flash tuner should arrive early this week!
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Thanks seventytwo I like the sound of the 10psi tune but I am stock otherwise (other than an F6 CAI) and its bloody hot up here and I also run PULP not 98. The nearly-20c extra they charge for BP Ultimate here is outrageous and unnecessary for a stock car and according to Con the 8psi tune is fine on PULP. $70 an hour is better than expected! I should be able to get in and out for 70 bucks with a couple of dyno sheets with power, AFR and boost.
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Hey guys, Another Darwinite here - I just ordered one of C&V's $495 flash tuner specials and it should be here on Monday/Tuesday. I am going to run the 8psi tune and chuck it on the dyno at Hi-Tech before and after. Does anyone know how much HTT charge for dyno time? Adam
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anyone know the answer to this one ?
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I just bought the silver mesh for an ego (dark gray) BF2. I'm still second guessing the choice though, has anyone done this on an ego xr6t and how did it look?
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Muzza who did you buy it from, and did they supply generic tunes with it? I am surprised tuners haven't jumped on this to sell as their premium product.
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So why is noone offering these with generic tunes yet? CAPA list them at $1200 - I'd pay that given that it negates the need for a boost gauge, and the performance measurement features.
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I don't see why its confusing.. the full name of the cars are Ford Focus XR5 Turbo and Ford Mondeo XR5 Turbo. Seems similar to Subaru Impreza WRX STi, Subaru Forester STi, Subaru Legacy STi etc.
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Reading this discussion of the hose clamps, I went and had a look at the clamps in my BF2 today as I am looking at buying a flash tuner shortly. However, the clamps look fine to me. I see them referred to as 'wire clamps' - what do you mean by that? All the clamps on the intercooler piping in my engine bay, including the pipe that connects to the under battery pipe, appear to be bona fide hose clamps (I.e. about 1cm wide flat metal clamps) with a hexagonal head on the bolt holding it together. Do the BF2's have different hose clamps? Is somebody able to post a pic of the hose clamps that you guys are replacing?
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I paid $35k + ORC for a BF MK2 (late 06) auto, premium sound, 18's, mats, tint. Demo with 5000ks They were $34,888 + ORC new at one stage (06 runouts) so even at the price I paid I felt I did well, but not that well.
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I posted a thread about this previously but had no other takers.. I assume I probably explained it poorly But yes, same problem here.. BF2 XR6T, shortly after driving off, a few thuds from the front left and then she's off and it never happens again until the next time she's started. Interested to hear what it turns out to be.. its seriously got to be a warranty issue.. that is hardly acceptable in a new car.
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poor bang for buck, and since you can make pretty much limitless power with the stock airbox in place, I'm not sure why you'd bother. better to put the money towards mods with a better $/kw ratio (injectors, cat, tune, IC etc)
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Hi All Was hoping someone could answer a question I've been pondering about custom tuning. Let's say you have an XR6T with a generic flash tune, no mods and AFRs are nice, leaner than factory, but not leaning out. Obviously this is a good situation. Then you add cat converter, injectors, intercooler and boost and now require a custom tune. What happens when the car first goes on the dyno? Obviously the fuel maps are rescaled for injector size or something similar, but how do they ensure that the very first run, when they are looking to see what the AFRs are and whether to add or remove fuel at specific points, that they don't kill the motor by running it too lean. You would imagine after adding cat, intercooler that the car would be running more boost and running very lean. Does the tuner initially dump heaps of fuel into the tune across the rev range, to ensure the car doesn't lean out during the first run? Really interested to know how they handle that situation. Thanks Adam
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try 16c per litre up here tis why I run PULP
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is anyone else having a problem with these disappearing while driving? I've lost 2 of them now.. and I don't think theyre being nicked.. theyre just coming loose while driving and coming off. where can replacements be bought? im guessing ford spare parts would charge an arm & a leg for them?
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Having a good tune would be important. I would be surprised if many cats stand up to high exhaust gas temperatures brought about by poor tuning.
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how does one get a custom C&V tune when living in another state?
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Hope someone finds the following useful
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I would suggest completely the opposite, do the work yourself and avoid "car brokers". Many of them are just a proxy for the car dealerships.. they have deals with a few dealers and receive commission for the sales, just as a salesman would, plus you pay their fee as well. This is considered unethical in most industries (accepting commission, and charging the client a fee). It also means you are far from likely to get the best deal. See what they can do on an XR6T/F6.. then go get some prices yourself.. I guarantee the prices you get will be lower. The reverse auction one is also the same sh*t different smell. The brokers are there to look after their main client (the dealers), not you.
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That's salesman talk. I bought my XR6T over the phone (didn't have a choice really - only one Ford dealership up here). I found it quite helpful to call.. give them one chance to call back with a good price or I would be buying elsewhere.
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just make sure you're getting a good deal on the car you buy.. so you won't get hurt too bad on resale if you upgrade to the xr6t later. about $13k sounds right for cars at that spec with those k's
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Hi All I have a 2006 BF II XR6T which is doing something unusual. After I start the car, all seems fine. I can sit there for a while and it will idle perfectly. Also in general day to day driving it is perfect. However, when I first take off and reach about 10-15km/h there is this tapping noise from the front of the car somewhere. It only happens once after I start the car, after the first time I reach 10-15km/h. It seems like something first switches on at that speed and causes the tapping noise. I thought it might be the aircon compressor kicking in.. but I'm not sure.. you would think that would also come on if I sat there idle for a while after starting the car. It happens reliably, every time I take off after starting the car. So if I go to the shops, it will do it when I first leave, and then when I turn around to head home it will do it again when I reach 10-15k's for the first time. Does anyone else experience this? I dread having to take it to Fords service department, they are truly hopeless and will probably not be able to reproduce the problem. Adam
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I used dental floss and meguiars paint cleaner to get the glue off
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It needs a wash as it went on a truck for the Melbourne -> Adelaide leg of the trip up to Darwin (rest was train). Once it's looking its best I'll take some pics.