TXR05

Cheap brand. But would that cause the engine to still run fine and lose 70rwkw? Cat is fine.

Been there done that. Their response? "It's just a worn engine. You want that power back you'll have to tune it too 16 psi. " after one run in the dyno. Mind you that was at 70,000 km.

Not sure. But it's been on this tune since 2006 and only started playing up when the coils died and I replaced them but never got the power back. Used to be able to spin second and 3rd no probs and now It won't even spin first.

gauge is brand new... But its not my car... or engine. Other than that his car runs fine. Was just worried it might be my engine that had something wrong with it.... When do you guys start making boost ? I start making boost at just after 2K. I need to check my wastegate to make sure its sealed properly But can't get to the bolts on the dump pipe, or on the flange.... Flange ones are impossible! His car is completely stock and I cant pull away from him at the lights when mines suppose to have 420 RWHP and he is stock... Another mate whos got 430 RWHP took me for a drive and I sh*t my pants at the power difference! Mines only pulling like a stock car. But still making full boost... Starting to sh*t me off! I hate cars at the moment lol.

Auto. Idles at 900 or so.

Just wondering if the vacuum pressure is normal on my car. On idle it sits at about 21MMHg or what ever it is But my mates ( stock ) sits at about 13 Which is normal ? Thanks.

I was chirping into 5th. Was quite happy with that lol. Can't believe that people are cracking well over my time ( which I'm still really happy with ) with less HP. f*ck you and your autos.

First time down the track on my last run of the night, I got 12.6 in a 6 speed manual. Burnt the crap outta my clutch though. 313RWKW

Mines done this a few times.

Not a damn thing. I never throw any codes. Even with things that should throw codes. It doent.

Valve springs were changed in 2005. 4" dump 5"cat 3.5" mandral all the way. Now it's doing it in any gear. I boot it, gets to about 5000rpm then hits like a safe mode. Sounds like it runs on 4 cylinders. Then idles at 250 rpm untill it runs fine again. Also looses 3 psi of boost when it runs funny on a full load.

New plugs an coils. I don't know what valve float is like. It was on boost fine then dropped all boost down to about 2 psi then ran like sh*t for 5 seconds then was fine and has been since. Been on boost a few times tonight. Only did it at about 5500rpm. Most of the time I shift at 5000rpm.

It's done this once on the 10 pound tune started to boost creep and hit boost cut then ran like sh*t. Never done it on the 12 pound tune until the other night. But it's only ever done it once. Will the tuner be able to pick it up straight away? Cause I can't afford too much time off work.

So the other night, Not too sure what happened, but it seemed to hit boost cut and then run like sh*t. Coughing and spluttering, then the car stalled. After I started it, it ran like sh*t for a bit more and the smell of fuel was overpowering! But then after about 10 seconds of spluttering it went fine and ran beautifully. Suggestions on why it ran rich after full boost ? or even boost cut ? I'm starting to think that my actuator is sticking! I haven't really come onto boost after that, Not that I even drive the thing past 1/4 throttle anymore.

I've used it, I liked it. But I didn't like the fact the I got about 90KM less out of my tank of fuel. Car ran really nice though.

sounds like boost cut. Mines doing the same thing sometimes, but I'm not getting any error codes. I never get any error codes, I dont even think mine works...

But then you have to consider if you have 800nm of torque that's not what the engine has, as the gear box and diff acts as a torque muliplier. you may only have 600NM at the engine.

have you replaced the fuel pump ? maybe the fuel pressure regualtor is stuffed.

Wow.... Hopefully they pay out all you're worth and then some! That will learn him!

I don't know if it would be the muffler, would that make the car sound different? The odd thing is the car seems to have more power in the morning. Right after the car warms up it's got a fair amount more power than what it does if it's been running for a couple of hours. Yet the intake temps remain the same. Well maybe 5 degrees different. I'm going to take it back to the dyno when my tax comes through. Hopfully it's something stupid. I was watching a vid when I first got the car, and it deffiently went alot harder than what it does now.

So I just noticed my master is leaking. It's leaking from where the alloy meets the black cylinder. so the fluid is all down the front of the black cylinder. Is this just a seal that needs to be replaced? Or do I need a whole new master ?

turbo sounds fine though. Not clutch slip as it holds in 6th under load and spins the wheels easy enough. What would be the best way to see if the turbo is buggered ? It still holds boost and makes it just fine. On the shut down it all sounds normal.

Damn... I feel ripped only getting a 12.6 @113MPH with 313 RWKW :( 6 speed manual though! Does that help ?

So I still haven't figured out what the go is! anyone else got anymore ideas ? It feels as if the cams are not kicking in like they should be! drives fine up untill 3500RPM where the power difference doesnt seem to change much from 3/4 throttle to full throttle. makes all the noise like it wants to go, but just goes no where. Not logging any error codes, making 13.5 PSI instead of 12 PSI. Took it to the dyno who told me its because the engine is old ( 90,000KM ) Could a fault O2 sensor cause this ? TPS ? Or could this be because of my non genuine coils ( doesn't misfire at any RPM or boost ). Just lacking the suddon oomph of boost at 3500 ( but still hits it fine )

Quotes me $1300 to do the clutch on my 4x4 said it would take 1 day, f*cked my 4x4 sensor and my o2 sensor and made me pay for it, took 4 days to do it and then charged $1800 for it. Not sure what he did on my brothers monaro. But he sure is not happy with him.