Kroozin

It costs like 90 bux at some dynos to get a read out of power, afrs, boost torque u should get it checked out mine was pinging its head off when I had that generic tune. get it checked out for peace of mind

It can be done and centred. But like others have said you gotta cut the whole bottom lip off the front reo bar then weld the corner that is left behind. Also the A/c line needs to be bent out of the way a ridiculous amount without kinking or breaking. The other A/c fitting attached to the condensor would need to be behind the intercooler if you want it to be centred.

far enough I think I'll stick with the 3". I took the front bar off tongiht and checked out what clearance I had. I can see that I will need to trim a small part of the battery tray to get a smooth run through. Still a little unsure if I have the right materials list to do it though, even if I do change it all to 3"...? On another note I was just doing a little test fit of the 600x300x76 cooler and I can see why people seem to fit the cooler to the left an inch due to the connection fitted to the condensor itself on the passenger side that sticks out.. looks like im going to have to take what I can from the front bar and reweld it since the seam weld will be gone near each end of the cooler. The cooler should "just" fit but its going to be extremely tight. The other A/c line that's in the way had to be bent up a rediculous amount to stay out of the way for the future fitting. Just trying to get everything ready for fitting at this point in time.

To correct my last sentence after searching I have found that the 3" pipe does involve some of the battery tray to be trimmed aswell

Hi all, I would like to make a new intake under the headlight to a pod on my BF after fitting up the new cooler. I was hoping to use the following materials starting from the turbo to the pod only. * 3" to 3.5" reducer 45 degree * short piece of 3.5" alloy pipe * 3.5" 45 degree bend * short piece of 3.5" alloy pipe * 3.5" 90degree bend * short piece of 3.5" alloy pipe * Pod filter 3.5" hole 6 inch long I have read that the battery tray may need some trimming to fit the pipe under neath but will the 3.5" pipe fit underneath the headlight? Is that all the materails that is needed or am I missing a a small bend somewhere? Is it really worth stepping up to the 3.5" from the 3" all the way as I believe the 3" doesnt involve any cutting of the battery tray? Cheers

I should of said its the replacement metal pipe from the exit of the intercooler that goes under the head light and join to the rubber pipe to the cross over to the throttle body. Doesnt have that rectangle section that the standard pippe has looks like a less restrictive pipe. Maybe its not rapids?? but anyway sorry for the confusion

Hi all, I understand the HDI cooler is superior in 1 way to the Monza due to shorter piping so the there'd be less lag. The Monza has coil dimensions of 440x300x75 Area=.132mm2 Volume=9.9litres can get for $250 2nd hand with rapid ubp The Hdi coil measures 580x210x100 Area=.1218mm2 Volume=12.18litres $665+ postage So the Monza has a greater area of coil while the Hdi has less area of coil but more volume. I know the Hdi may flow more air but would the inlet temps be any better off? Is it worth spending the xtra coin for a Hdi kit compared to the Monza? cant afford the top end gear sorry if this has been raised before I couldnt find it

mine does the same.. I'm led to believe it is the valve springs and they need to be replaced with aftermarket springs I think some guys are using crow cams springs,etc..$$$ . What is the worst case scenario if encountering valve float here and there after a big rev like baf6 has said?

do you think this intercooler setup is too exxy?? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FORD-XR6-Turbo-FPV-F6-Rapid-Systems-Intercooler-V1-Kit-/270745144236?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f09ab0bac

Found that I had all the bits to make a dose pipe layin around in the garage.. Looks the exact same as LukesF6. Like its been said it sounds like a fighter jet with 17psi it seriously is freekin loud Not gunna leave it on for there for long, my luck it'll break something.

Thanks Mike, I'll give it a shot. I think its time to check clamps/bolts while I'm at it anyway.

I had the engine light come up when I got my cat changed too. I think it had something to do with the sensor after the cat getting a different sense of emissions due to the high flow cat not burning off as much as the standard did so the computer reads a fault or something like that I was told not to fang around as it will overboost.. the zorst fella told me in advance that the light would come up and not to worry about it too much the tuner will sort it.

Mine has a really rough idle on a cold start doesnt sound like its going to stall..sort of a lumpy cam idle goes away after about 5-10sec. Is this related to McFriz's idle problem?

just a quik one. Im running 17psi and when I change gears obviously all the pressure is being dumped in front of the turbo on the filter side. Would it make a difference to the spool up time if that pressure that has been dumped there is gone I.e vented?? I spose it would probably be minimal

Ive been having this issue time and again for the last couple of months.. Car has been fine for atleast a year guess they have gone soft. I can get an ok price on the valve springs and what not but how expensive is it to have someone install them? Are they a PITA to fit yourself?