Kroozin

I had to look under the car to see what mine was with the car half up on the gutter to see it properly but yeh mine had a uni-joint in the middle but its worth checking it out for your own sake.. ya dont wanna buy the wrong one, would be a pita. that's a pretty good price rednose considering you got the rear tailshaft cv replaced too.. would of thought the cv would have been relatively Exxy.. Ford were charging something like 300bux just for the centre bearing bush alone when I went to Powerford at castle hill.

just to be sure to be sure I plumbed up the surge tank as follows.. return to tank in the top stem of the surge tank return from the fuel rail/ fuel reg in the 2nd from the top stem feed from walbro intank pump to bottom stem of the 3 stems that are all together Then out of the bottom of the surge tank to the 044 pump which obviously goes to the fuel rail I plumbed it up right.... right?? I know its wired up correctly..to the pink wire for the relay coil and blah blah

hey mic I didnt check fuel pressure b4 and after but I just assumed the the fpr would try and keep the fuel rail at a steady 4bar at say idle. But yeh there must be some difference in fuel pres. I gather as the car was running like a beast in the mid range until tonight where the loud popping has come and it all of a sudden just drops all power at roughly 3K under load.

yeh it seems to be pointing at the fuel reg. abit. They aren't too hard to swap out either I believe, probly the easiest thing to swap out actually.

Sounds good. Dumb question but how will I know if the plugs are f*cked? Is the general consensus just relace'em? With the cat can that be checked by banging it by hand underneath and listening for loose sh*t inside? I could most likey borrow my brothers fuel reg and the rest will have to wait till wednesday I guess.

doubt it would be the rings tbh with these symptoms.. but plugs yeh maybe they havent been changed since august last year and I dont think they are iridiums. I forgot to mention its taking now roughly 4 turns to start whereas before it would start right up.

I think what Pookey Master said is spot on. Just wait and save up some more cash for a later model.. might be able to get your self a bf mk2 or later. I would wait too bud if this were the case + you'll be f*cked it ya get caught and back on your P's again.. stuff that!

True.. it makes sense the reg. could be stuffed.. That would seem to explain the loud popping on decel. I guess. Just doesnt explain the part where it feels like I've hit a wall under load at around 3K.

Well that's what I thought too.. in the beginning,hence my lazyness to get it retuned again. TBH the car def. does/did feel stronger though, especially in the mid range not sure about the top end as I would need to check in 4th gear its been ripping 3rds with ease now so its hard to tell if the top end of the rev range is betta or not. Revving 4th out is just asking for trouble IMO.

Hey fellas well the topic title pretty much sums it up.. I fitted a surge tanks to my car almost 2 weeks ago now and the car has been running fine...if anything betta! Under WOT the car has been gr8 only I was told last night by my misses that it blows black smoke..mind you I was pulling 3rds at the time. The car is a BF MK1 with all the bolt on goodies inc. valve springs + port and actuator has been done, it s a manual. Now it just started tonight I noticed under decel the car popping loudly in roughly 0.5-1sec intervals. Probably not the smartest thing to do but I ramped up on the power once at roughly 3/4 throttle, it just started to make boost and started pulling then all of a sudden it felt like traction control was kicking in and almost made me head butt the steering wheel, I jumped off the throttle straight away and limped to work.. I am going in next wednesday to get the car checked and tuned for the surge tank install after tonights events. I had been putting off getting it tuned after the surge tank coz im a lazy turd and havent had the time at the moment. Does anyone have any ideas what it could be off the bat..? I realise fingers will point straight at the surge tank install but as I said it has been running beautiful for the last 2 weeks.. Thanks guys

Wasn't there a thread just like this 3 weeks ago..? I can't find it.

150bux from bursons But you'll need to get your tail shaft rebalanced which can be from 250 to 450bux

Greenfuelfinda app for iPhone looks alright but I think it's only for caltex and some others???

how much are the ID1000's worth??

I average around 400km when Im heavy on the right foot everywhere and roughly umm I dont know when I take it easy everywhere.

bareback :o

crabs

dad can I borrow the car just gotta go down the road quickly. hopefully not a repost

What boost is your mate running to achieve 400rwkw impellor? Is it a standard turbo?

Comes with day and night mode :-/

Always bought 2nd hand cars myself doesn't look like I'm missing out on much though... hate hearing about this stuff, good luck with Ford mate hope you get back on the rd soon.

might give ford a call tomorrow.. you can call me joe blow. See what they are going for at Castle Hill.

Is there any machining involved with fitting in the new rods and bearings? I know what you mean about the oil pump housing being the killer but I think that is the part that usually goes most from what Ive read.. something about the relief circuit not being big enough when up in the top end then hitting the limiter..? Maybe someone else may know more about this and it isn't necessary and just the gears are needed.. not sure.

Which tyres are you using? I'm a cheapy fan to I'd be lucky to get 15000km out of a set with 5000km rotating.. Probly coz I'm a c:)t of a driver though.

Thanx JGP, yeh I've been to that website many of times wishing I had a lazy 2g in my back pocket. I think the atomic gears and housing is actually a 1000bux and ya have to exchange him with your old unbroken 1 for that price... $'s may have changed though as I spoke with brad nearly a yr ago now. Im interested in the other costs I.e labour of building the motor, rebalancing the crank and whatever else he's doing. Only I'd be pulling the motor out and refitting myself which is the easy part I guess in the scheme of things but should save a few bux.