Kroozin

Yeh something needs to happen I'm a bit down about how it is ATM... Lol Cheers Ratter

Ive already asked if I could go back and how much... I'll see how it goes if its too costly of an exercise to go back to standard I'll have to leave it unfortunately.

RW tbh I'm not 100% sure why but that's what was recommended. I think I should have gone to ford and bought the standard ones ATM.... no more 3rds on smooth rds Any thoughts on this?

Standard cams and now fixed/adjustable cam gears from atomic Car was farting its ass off on decel and coming up with a camshaft positioning sensor retarded fault hence the problem then the fix.

Yeah he told me about that but atleast they won't die again lol

Turns out the timing chain didn't skip a tooth.. Looking at it all the dots line up. It's the vernier camshaft gears that are rooted. Getting some new solid ones fitted now that can't f*ck out. The chain, guides and everything still look new and sexy which is really good to see. Very happy with the guys here

bionicxr6t05 is there any difference in the bottom ends from the fg f6 short motor and the bf f6 short motor from ford? I read somewhere the fg f6's use mahle pistons now.. can you confirm and is that the only difference? Thanx mate

They run an internally gated turbo like the rest of'em. You can get split dump pipes though.. Ive heard of some guys cutting them where they rejoin then plugging the other one.

I would be looking at stock cars too if it were me. If I sell my modded car it'll be because it's farked beyond what I can afford to be bothered with but still runs "good" enough to sell to a half wit. Then start all over again.. HAHA! Most ppl usually mod there car because when they give it a thrash its just not fast enough... Pretty sure in stock form its alot harder to hurt these cars too.. rather than being mucked around with by who knows..

What about star washers? Where you drill the hole and knock the tabs in then fold the remaining tabs around the bolt faces.. We have roller conveyors at work, the bolts kept undoing on the side where the roller direction counters the thread direction causing it to come undone when the bearings were starting to get a little worse for wear.. I realise it would be best to replace a roller everytime you come across this but it becomes a pita when sh*t gets busy. I tried spring washers, locktite, wire through the bolt holes (caused them to shear more often), then the star washers. Bend 4 tabs up and 2 tabs into the drilled holes. The bolts dont undo themselves anymore they just shear off when the bearings are totally farked.

Id be interested in what boost they were running too?

SA, foon or E85?

Farout Jake I was expecting you to have the hard bush in there.. that's scary stuff. Good pick up though. Its easy to see why that is a weak point. That doesnt look too hard to fix, but you might wanna rip that bush out before you weld your plate in. If it were me I would probably look at welding some 6mm mild steel plate horizontally cut to shape with a bend in it to follow the general shape, then weld another piece 90degrees to the piece you just welded in to fill up that gap on the left, that would surely fix your cracking problem. Only I would be then looking for the next weakest link and bracing that up while your there. Im no fitter but yeh it would be nice to see some pics of how other ppl have fixed this problem before it occurs.. might tackle mine in the next days off as I have the rediculously hard nolathane bush. Good luck with it Jake be sure to post pics of your result.

Are there any pics of these being welded up with extra plating for strength?

It appears after doing some searching that its the guides that appear to go most of the time causing the chain to skip a tooth.

I didn't fit it up some im unsure what guides were put in. Are the FG' guides better? Just glad the valves didnt meet up with the piston if this is the case.

Fair enough thanx Ratter.. These chains mustn't last too long though, I spent like 1200bux 9 months ago getting it all replaced coz they were shagged then too.. It doesnt seem to add up. I never over rev the thing either as the shift light is set at 5K and the revcut going by memory is 6300rpm. I hope your wrong but going by your rep. I'd say your right.

Havent been to the tuner yet that will have to wait till wednesday. Thanx Ratter for your comment. Just a few quick questions to be this to bed. How do the camshafts jump out of alignment? Is it an easy fix or a costly fix usually? I.e have the new chains stretched or something What symptoms should the car have to give away that this has happened? At the moment the car is starting easily, idiling like it always has, and seems to feel just as sporting as always when leaning on the throttle. Is it possible the sensor itself could be giving off faulty feedback? Thanks in advance Ratter.

The Cam Position Sensor is used to fire the injectors and is not related to the VVT, if I recall correctly ^^^^^ does anyone know if this applies to us?? Just done a simple google search on the fault and it appears I should have either a rough idle, hard starting and stalling problems. The cause could be from either timing chain skipping a tooth (seems unlikely as I had new chain guides and heavy duty chain installed last august), faulty sensor and a whole bunch of over things that probably dont apply to our cars :banghead: Hopefully someone hear has some more insight on the fault P1383.

Ok well I cleared the 2 DTC faults before going to work. Started the car and its idling normal and started quick and easily again. Drove to work and the popping is still gone gave it abit of a squirt no higher than 3.5K and it bagged the tyres for a few metres. Seems to be back to normal again.. Checked the DTC once I got to work and the cat below effieciency fault isn't there but the Camshaft position timing over retarded fault is present again.. Anyone know had this fault come up before?

No lumpy idle its normal and smooth. Ill clear the dtc and see if it returns after driving back to wk tonight. Is it possible the computer was pulling timing due to be so rich? I kinda thought it would advance the timing in areas due to it having fat afrs.

I had no problem with my car now I think about it until I stopped at my mates maybe 5-10 min with the car idling.. I turned the car off and then left roughly 15min later and the popping started. :-/

Well started her up this morning after it had been left outside over night and it started on the 2nd turn which is pretty good. Drove home and the popping has gone and it's back to normal. I hadn't put my foot into it though, that can wait till I get it checked on Wednesday. I just put my xcal 3 on though and found this fault: Camshaft position timing over retarded (P1383). Also another one telling me my cat is below efficiency but I've had that 1 pop up before the surge tank install anyway. Anyone have a clue how this retarded fault came about??

I overheard the fellas in the lunch room before talking about the new 2L turbo for the falcon, obviously sparked from being in fridays daily telegraph. They dont really know much about cars to say the least but they all seemed to be of the opinion that the motor must be working pretty hard to have the same output as the "big" 4L + pushing that thing around.... More things to go wrong blah blah.. Not saying I agree or disagree with them but that's coming from fellas that rarely talk about cars at all. I'm aware they do not make up for the greater population but just some food for thought.