Ekul

968's the way to go - I have them and am getting great power and great driveability. Dekas cheap and overrated, seem to be pushed hard by certain tuners, cos that's what they are used to and probably don't have to do too much to get your vehicle running ok. Bosch 968's are better quality and give a better overall result if your tuner spends the time setting them up.

Thanks Turbonator and FF1, Have pulled lots of big, complex and expensive tranny's apart (including ZF) in the past, in the heavy plant machinery world for folks like CAT, Hitachi, Volvo etc. and many more, - however I understand that ZF may want to maintain a level of control of their product for many reasons, which probably hinge around long term profitability, through patent protection, collecting all failure info for R&D in future products. Essentially, by making it difficult for any other folks to collectively come up with improvements, or discover causes of problems before they do. They want to be the only supplier to the aftermarket, by remaining in control as much as possible. Probably helps control warranty issues too. But, it is my tranny and I can do whatever I want with it. If I break something and subsequently come up with a fix, or find a better internal component, or oil that permits a performance enhancement for my purposes and use of the product, then it should be possible to get some product info. Given that most folks on this forum (and others like it) will at some point be pushing the ZF tranny pretty hard for quite a few years to come, ZF would probably do well to supply some broad factual info to Ford dealerships - it makes them look like monkeys when they have no idea at all about a standard fitment transmission in a vehicle they sell and maintain. Hoodoo and voodoo around what is now a common/standard piece of gear, just makes me want to have a look inside even more, to find out what the fuss is about. Would be good to get some facts from the manufacturer in terms of oils, internal filtering, adjustments, wear charecteristics at different loadings than standard etc - so we, and even a Ford dealership can apply our preferences for our use of the product, rather than compromise our use, to fit within a very broad band of users. All work on vehicle is done by myself - Tuning is done by WRC Developments in Napier, NZ - Check out their website - real top shelf tuning work.

Thanks for that Turbonater. Yes - have been changing the oil quite regularly, the reason being due to each time I added a new bit of performance gear and re-modified the tune, on the dyno (and road) - I would change the oil after the total thrashing I would give it for a few weeks afterwards.... Just made me feel better I have done all the mods I am going to do now for quite some time given that I should probably get forged pistons and beefed up rods if I take it any further. So the oil changes will get pushed out to 5000km's now. Also have changed the thermostat from a 91deg.C to 82deg.C and it doesn't seem to get too hot anymore. Even from new before I started boosted the output it always seemed too hot, even though the temp indicator sat just below half way. It now sits one full segment below half way and does not smell like its cooking... So what is the syory with the trans oil - why can't it be touched - what oil is it running - what is the story? Never heard of a gearbox that lasts forever on the same oil..? Cheers, Luke.

Hi there fella's, After doing all the power mods on my 2011 Fg ute (4"dump, intercooler, 4" race intake, surge tank/Bosch pump, injectors etc, and several edits to get it just right) my attention has turned to up-grading oils (from new I always used Mobil 1 0-40, change after 1,000kms then every 3000km's after that) Then came trans and diff oils. Diff was easy - drained and filled with some nice expensive synthetic Motul gear oil (used in F1 cars). Went to drain the trans to put the synthetic Motul trans oil in and can't find a drain/fill, or level plug anywhere? Asked Ford at 2 NZ dealerships - one said that the trans is sealed for life and it has to go back to Germany for any maintenance..... I didn't know if he was taking the puss, so I rang another Ford dealership - they said they have never changed/touched the trans oil in a ZF auto 6 speed, and had heard that the oil was really top stuff - around $70/litre (but didn't know what it was), so why would you want to change it, if there are no problems? I want to change it because I am putting heaps of power through the trans and it seems like common sense to want to put some really good oil in there..? Any ideas or comments welcome, anybody else switched to a different tranny oil with the ZF auto 6 speed? Cheers, Luke.

Got the Bosch 986's fitted and a re-tune - what a diffrence!! Have noticed that I get a few really good hits of accelaeration when the boost comes on, but then that dissapears after two short bursts or one more prolonged spurt - presumably intake air warming / heat soak etc? Have got the plazmaman inter-cooler stage 2 (upto 800hp)kit and the race airbox coming and also a 4" dump with a high-flow cat, hopefully this will remove the flow restrictions and cool things down a little. Also have Process West surge tank and motorsport 044 pump c/w harness at home waiting to go on. Will hopefully get all this stuff fitted and dialled in this week, or next, depending on when the postie drops the rest of the stuff off. What sort of rwks can I expect from all of the above on my 2011 FG XR6T 6sp auto ute? Almost everybody on this forum seems mad keen on 60lb Siemens Deka's; was wondering with my above Bosch 044 pump and Bosch 986 injector set-up and all the other above bits and pieces fitted, what would be a realistic performance difference if I spent another $450 to swap out the Bosch 986's (42lb) for the 60lb Siemens Deka's? Was quite happy with the recently fitted Bosch 986's by themselves - you wouldn't realise just doodling around town that anything too much was different from standard (though much better economy around town), but as soon as you start and squeeze the accelerator - it turns into a differnt ute with phenomenal acceleration until presumably things get a bit warm under the bonnet and it loses the boost feeling - on cool morning/ evening, giving it a bit of a squirt above 100km/hr gets it up to big numbers on the speedo pretty quickly, till the heat kicks in and takes the boost effect away on succesive attempts, till it cools a little. Is the difference between the 986's and the Deka's huge, or will I be happy with everything once all the other bits are fitted?

Just while I am here, also - what would you guys determine to be premium fluids for the auto when putting more than standard power through it? Are there some high performance synthetic oils that can be used to good effect in the ZF 6sp. auto? (still factory oil at the moment) What is considered the best engine oil (using Mobil 1 0-40 at the mo) and axle oil (currently still factory), for the extra loading and heat etc? Is it worth putting in a lower temp opening thermostat etc? Cheers, Luke.

Thanks guys for your feedback - put 42lb injectors in because they were free of charge (somebody gave me them) The guy who is doing my tuning does mainly Jap tuning and is very succesful at this. Using ECUtec software I think? and this is the first time he has seen the goings on in the Ford ECU. He's doing the right things and playing it safe, but learning at the same time. Living where I do, I cant just drive up the road and find a Ford performance tuner that has done 200 tunes and knows the ins and outs - so really just trying to read between the lines, as there is so many different views. Appreciate your views though guys, we'll just keep plugging away. Car is going great I might add pulls like a southbound coal train...except terminal velocity is somwhat higher!! Will keep asking dumb questions till I'm no longer dumb - Cheers, Luke.

Just been getting some tuning done to FG XR6 Ute (auto) 2011 with euro4 spec. Fitted 968's and got some good street power now. When on the dyno trying to get a clean power run in it would change down even if in manual tiptronic and made it impossible to trace a good line all the way through. Just spin up the tyres on the dyno even tied down hard. Also, is there some kind of torque limiting control on 1st and 2nd gear that reduces boost until it hits 3rd gear? couldn't find any way of getting in to the program to change this? Any clues would be good, Cheers.

Just been having a look at the Iridium NGK plugs that are mentioned in this thread - Repco want $32.99 each for them, but anybody can get them off Amazon for just US$6.95 each - what is all that about...? They seem to be listed under 2 NGK numbers - not sure if they are different plugs, NGK BKR6EIX and NGK BKR6EIX-11 - maybe somebody can enlighten us? Does this plug really make that much difference at the cylinder pressures generated by vehicles running just regular 98RON or less? Would just the standard plug correctly gapped and in good condition be just as good?

Why so KABOOOOOM...? No problem for a strong late model engine. Peak at 17psi hold 13psi under hard acceleration - by the time peak boost hits and you fell the really strong acceleartion the vehicle is already going over 140km/hr. Its not like you are going to drive like that too often. The boost starts to falls off before limiter revs. Not exactly boosting at 17psi all day and everyday - just got to mind how you go and be sensible with it. Make sure to only use 98RON if driving hard - maybe add 5 litres of toluene... -

I am using Mobil 1 0-40 fully synthetic in my FGXR6T 6sp auto - standard plugs seem fine so far - not sure how much difference another brand or fraction of difference in the gap really makes? only mod is a generic flash tune that hits 17 psi max - I drive it pretty hard at times - oil was still clean looking when I changed it. The Mobil-1 0-40 is expensive, but best there is for cold start and short trips with the turbo IMHO.

Thanks Paulie - I realise that I will need a re-tune. Just wondered if these injectors by themselves will deliver a worthwhile improvement. I got them for nothing, and because I am considering a tune, I thought I would get these installed too, as it probably won't cost that much more with a tune to get them installed? If they won't help things much by themselves with the tune - I will just get a performance tune and stay with standard eqyuipment.

Thanks Henz, I am not looking to make my ute into ballistic missile, but as I have the 986 injectors anyway and I realise that to fit them, I am up for the cost a re-map. If I fit a cat at the same time, I guess the extra cost to include a cat is not going to break the bank, but I still want a reliable vehicle at the end of the day, that is not too high maintainance. Am I right in thinking that fitting a cat at the same time as the injectors will keep things a bit cooler when burning the extra gas that is producing the power increase, so that the cat effectively improves reliability/efficiency over stock, when higher flow injectors are used? Which cat would be recomended for my set up and what would it cost? I don't see myself needing any more than 300rwkW's. I think performance at that level is more than enough for my ability to do anything with it...!

Have posted this elsewhere, but this seems like a more appropriate thread. Are Bosch 968 injectors longer than the standard FG XR6T original injectors? I have a set of new ones and wondered if they can be easilly fitted and will they deliver a worthwhile improvement along with a panel K&N and a re-tune. All just standard at the moment and use only 98RON gas. What level of improvement could I get if they can be fitted etc? Thanks.

Hi, I am new to this forum and have a few questions about performance improvements. I have aquired some new Bosch '968' injectors that I got for virtually nothing. Will they fit my standard 2011 FG XR6T ute, I have heard that they are too long? Is it worth fitting them and getting a re-tune and what sort of output could I expect if they were fitted. I only run 98RON fuel and I have a K&N panel filter. The tune is still the standard factory tune. I am thinking that this would be a real cheap way to get a few extra ponies without going nuts on bolt-on costs at this stage. The ute has only done about 3000kms so far. Any advice would be fantastic, Thanks.