Gasman

I get that its not the right way of doing it. What problems would occur by doing it this way? How would this damage the engine?

Just spoke to a guy whos a 4th yr diesel mechanic and he told me he had modded a few xr6Ts himself. Some of the things he did to accomplish the power were a bit different to what I have thought to be the done thing. Anyway I asked his permission to post a transcript of our conversation. Be aware that he did all his own R&D , taking around 50 hrs total work and parts costing about $1200 (including the bits that didnt work) pity he didnt come across this site first. Interested in hearing what issues the car/s may have doing it this way if any of the tuners here want to comment. his replies in red. do you do turbo rebuilds? yep port and flapper mods? haha not in work hours, but yer I've done em before, honestly doesn't make that much difference without adjusting ya fuel up to spin her faster. have you considered this http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/Manual%20Boost%20Controller.htm didnt think you can boost controllers on these bull sh*t,I've fitted three of em to the VV-t Falcon Turbos if I fit a high flow cat I will get over boost it'll just open the wastegate when it senses over 15psi if its set to that I think the ford ecu will to go into limp mode when it sees overboost that's why you fit the manual boost controller, you put a wastegate actuator designed by Three bar racing http://www.3barracing.com/products.htm disconnect the electronics on the ecu for the wastegate control, theres a 5 v supply and a return voltage. you put a 3K ohm resistor from the 5v supply to the return. it senses 13psi so the ecu thinks you have 13psi all the time. you then adjust your rail pressure sensor to tell the ecu you've got low rail pressure. that wont ruin your engine? nope,because you measure your boost and run it at 16psi controlled manually by the dawes valve. the car thinks you have low rail pressure so it pumps more fuel . you then put a high pressure pump on with a fuel pressure controller and put whatever pressure you want through the rail. you put a new map sensor on it that's adjusted so the car sucks harder. so the car runs richer? yep,but its clean because you've got more boost. then you adjust your o2 sensor what about when it thinks your at 13psi when your idling? doesn't matter,that's why you have your rail pressure adjusted. it goes, hold on... too much boost,oh wait the rail pressures fine,oh the map sensors saying the intake is fine...,must be fine. pulled 336HP out of an XR6 T doin that what about the timing? mate I can honestly say I haven't done anything with the timing so the injectors were still stock too? nah I made some for him, took em out of an XR8t and redrilled em, I drilled em one at a time and flow tested em. can't remember the exact CC's per stroke . you just change the injector feedback values and compensation codes with a G-Scan according to your flow testing. this technique holds it from 1200 rpm to 5600. its not a standard looking dyno graph, its basically flat all the way through, bloody brilliant to drive ay.

I dont think I explained properly I plugged it back into where it was supposed to be, back into the solenoid. For some reason it had been bypassed. The actuator hose was connected straight to the front housing and the soleniod hose was connected back to itself.

When I bought mine the hose to the boost soleniod was plumbed straight to the front housing, maxed out at 5-6psi. plugged all up an made 15 dropping to 10

lots of prius stuff here on the gold coast too. Even had one try and drag me off the lights trying to get in front of me to turn left, it went great for the first 10 metres.

I got this blue one, You need a passenger for it to work though, Just get them to hold it out the window for instant boost at any speed.

yes B series does the same

Never had to buy one but read here the bosch Item is inexpensive

Definately get the altinator checked after running with no battery. An auto elec once told me that people who run they're cars without the battery connected help keep him in business.

unlikely, wheres the cloud of smoke come from?

I will wait and see if they keep the fuel before considering tuning for it , They most likely will cause they next best thing they offer is 95 prem.

Just found the new united servo here near Arundel QLD sells Premium 100 (10% ethanaol) I had half a tank of BP Ultimate left so I filled up. A couple more tanks will see the BP gone and I will see if there is any difference in economy/power. Hopefully the economy is good ,at more than 10c a Lt cheaper this could be good stuff

Can having to much pressure from the fuel pump actually cause the engine to use more fuel?

Holy crap

Since I have replaced my engine (same tune and injectors etc) My consumption has risen. Now lucky to get 400ks per 3/4 tank(never let it lower) ,was getting closer to 480ks before. Old engine consumpion got to 11.7lt and now sits at 12.2lt. Even my av speed has dropped to 48ks from 52ks. Looking at the instant economy my T (6 manual) seems to use less fuel at 105kph than at 100kph, could be somthing to do with momentum on hills? I have found that only letting the engine rev out to 2000rpm (boring) sees the best economy. I tried letting it out to 2500rpm and the difference was close to a loss of 40kms on the first quarter tank and from memory only ended up getting 380ks out of that 3/4 tank.

hahahaha gotta do that one

ok thanks. I thought mine would have been removed when my engine was replaced at RDP. When I queried wether or not they had taken it out I was told "Ford put it there for a reason". I was kinda shocked as its a fairly common problem.

Is it better to do this when performing an oil lchange? Just wondering how much oil loss there is when you pull the banjo fitting off.

I have thought about doing the same with my BA but am concerned that water splashing up from traffic or puddles and heavy rain might get in there. Would that be a valid concern?

Cheers wa g6et

TC or TD Cortina with a Barra T would be my pick.

Awesome gonna do the same test on mine! I get a "jingle/rattle" over evry small bump from the back right, very annoying.

cheers the closest fulcrum shop is about an hour away, any ideas on what ford would charge for an alighnment?

I took my car for a wheel alignment a month or so ago and was told that my diff cradle is bent as one of my wheels sticks out further than the other. After reading this maybe not. So where is a good place to have it done properly where they actually know what they are doing without having to tell them how to do they're jobs? I would have thought something like this would be common knoweledge to those who specialise in the field.

Well I put these in, no need to gap according to the website. Starts perfect of a morning so far but that could have just been the other plugs worn out (know idea when they were changed last). I havnt Given it full stick since I have put them in , but when I fill up on thursday I will unleash 15psi on them if the weather is dry and see if the spark blows out.