Gasman

that's what I think it is Adam. Is it a simple process to put new seals/gaskets in? or do I have to remove the valve cover to do these?

I wouldnt have a clue. It has an after market intercooler , brakes ,growler induction and the actuator looks newer than everything else under there, All this was there before I bought it.

sorry for the triple post people but something awesome may have just happened I cleaned out the soleniod thingy and reconnected the hoses as per the post above and I have got someinteresting results. Very smooth idle, very nice response less lag and the best thing is this thing is pushin 10 psi now,whereas before was only hitting 5 psi. Has hooking these hoses up correctly unleashed some of the performance the guy who owned before me may have done? Or is my actuator cactus? For giggles I turned off the traction control and drove op the street in second and pinned it @ 3000 rpm, instant 2 lane action Please dont tell me somethin is wrong lol

There is a hose from the front of the turbo housing to the waste gate actuator is this correct? As far as I can tell from drawings in the manual the top hose from the solenoid goes to the front of the turbo housing and im guessing that the bottom one should go to the actuator.

ok I just went to do mine and noticed 2 things. the first is the top hose is only connected at the solenoid and the other end just pokes up in the between the IC pipes. the second thing is the bottom of the solenoid has no hose connected = wtf? So I need to know where these are supposed to go as I have no reference point to start from. I would love to get this done today any help appreciated.

Hey thought I would check today for oil in my plug tubes. Holy crap 1 & 2 were full to the top A mechanic told me to check this a while ago as I was getting a very minor misfire. It looks as though the oil was coming from the 2 sensor looking things at the front of the rocker cover. Do these normally leak? Can the oil do damage to my coil packs and plugs? Is there a way to stop the oil from seeping in? After I cleared the oil the misfire seems to have dissapated but will see tomorrow when I take it for a better run.

thanks Spook.I wonder if its possible to just leave the factory amp connected and just splice into the remote power wires. So you are saying we need to run a filter to amplify our door and deck speakers?

no I didnt see any on it mate. There looks to be no adjustment.

Only the sub runs through the amp. The line level converter should have the thin black and yellow going in as this is the audio signal from the HU, the RCA output from the line level converter plugs into your amp. I dont know if the rest of the speakers needed the converter or not as I was only looking at the sub,though I cant see why you wouldnt run them through also. not sure what the other wires are for, the thick black ones are -earth but I still recommend earthing to the body. The red and green I can only assune to be remote power(which only seems to work with factory amp) and the line that detects the factory amp. I found that the red and green without the factory amp attached did not recieve power. But after switching off power and reconecting the factory amp they would then have regained power. I spent a whole saturday testing many combinations of connections to my amp. I was actually quite sore the next day from leaning into the boot and didnt have it worked out until well after dark If you do discover how to remotely power your amp with the standard amp loom be sure to post it up!

ok heres what I have worked out. If any one has any better ideas(or if ya think if done somethin wrong) please feel free to add to it!

I will have to go Have a look to see where everything is again.

Yeah I did a search but didnt turn anything up, I would use my 350w kenwood amp but I cant get the remote power to work from the original loom. I found the inputs and power etc but its not much good if I cant turn the amp off with the HU.

tx for the write up. Good info there. Any Idea on how many watts the factory amp puts out?

I dont think I have over tightened it"yet". I have had another go at tightening this time with a socket. The problem before wasnt the leaking but the rubber hose was actually pulling the pipes together. causing the hose to tear. When I removed the old one the pipe that runs in front of the engine pointed towards the grille! I tweaked it little by little until it pointed in the right direction and put the new hose on. So is the original pipe just a piece of black hose like I have put on it?

that's what had me worried as I had read that the back pressure could damage the turbine, I have also read that the back pressure on the turbine is perfectly normal recently.

ok cool. Didnt think he knew alot about Turbos after I spoke to him. He has been very reliable with my wifes EF wagon, has it running better than when we bought it. Might have to take it to one of the many speed shops here on the GC for anything engine related. Any recomendations? tx again

my temp sits on just under 1/2 around town and just over 1/4 on the highway. Quite often I pop the hood to check for coolant leakage and it feels like coolant bubbling in the top rad hose at 1/2 on the gauge(with the engine off). I didnt think Coolant could boil myself. My dad used to own a mechanic shop and said that its normal for a car to run at 1/2 temp. My mechanic told me its running to hot due to the fact that my intercooler covers most of the radiater that is exposed and the little bit of radiator that is exposed has some core damage ie; hitting bugs 190km on the freeway . So now im not sure,how hot should it run?

Mine does it too , could feel the coolant boiling inside the top radiator hose. My mates mitsubishi GTO does the same. Guessing its normal

I used about 6.5

ok tx guys

ok worked it out peeps.

Any one able to help out with A diagram of the audio wiring loom? I am usually quite good with this but The standard amp wiring setup has me a little baffled I am installing a 350w kenwood amp in place of the stock one and replacing the sub also which I have disconnected as it pops when I crank the volume. I would prefer to use the original amp wiring loom and just splicee off it. I have found the power , earth and the audio out but cant for the life of me find the audio in.I have tested the resistance of the rear speaker wires with the system running but cant find any similar readings for the sub in to the amp. Any help appreciated! Thanks

ok so is the sound eminating from the stock bov back out of the intake?

It has a growler CAI. Couldnt tell you how loud it is from the outside but it is comparable to the sound of a BOV, not quite as loud though.It does sound like it is coming from the exaust side to me but I could be wrong.

My BA xr6T makes a flutter noise that im assuming comes from the wastegate. The standard blow off valve is still fitted so what else can cause it? The car was modded before I bought it and the car yard where I got it from dont seem to know alot about its history. I have taken it to my mechanic to give it the once over and he mentioned something about a dial or something has been fitted to adjust the sound from the wastegate, but after alot of searching I havnt come across anything that is similar to this.I also cant see anything under there myself, though the wastegate actuator looks fairly new. Could any of you more experienced guys shed some light on this for me? I do like the sound it makes, just want to know how!