MX Dave

Dillz if I found out where those cans are sold I will buy the whole f**ken store!

Couldn't agree more pazzo. I've done my cert 111 in fitness and that hit the nail smack on the head. All I can add is focus on the big muscle groups to get your metabolism and mass up etc. Basically the legs and chest I'm simpler form. Keep the protein up and count calories if you can. I aim for 100grams of protein and about 2000 calories per day. But I prefere a leaner figure rather than a fully built one. Good foods to eat that will help to get that kind of intake but remain full can be things like Tuna in spring water, lentils, chicken without the skin etc. keep an eye on your carb intake as well if your not doing a lot of cardio ie: no more than 4 bits of whole meal bread a day. Limit intake of pasta etc. Give the muscle group you worked at least 48 hours recovery time trust me you will hinder efforts if you do otherwise. To start with I couldn't recommend a personal trainer more to set up a first time routine. Plus you will always work harder when they are at your side! Best of luck anyways! If you have any other questions feel free to Pm

Most of the time you can see if the coils are no good, they get like hairline fractures in the plastic casing.

I'm eager to hear what's wrong, best of luck mate :(

I've heard of a few people getting this issue after removing the middle muffler. Something like the rear muffler collapsing. Symptoms sound like a blocked cat. Hard to say really. Best of luck though mate

Dunno how that was necasarry :/

ah okay, either way the box is no good, yeah my long term goal will probably never see the light of day.. who knows.. I dont really mind.. one step at a time.. current step is what to do. really leaning towards forking out for the conversion do it once and only once with good gear.

Im pretty sure the t5z is in the Turbos with some sort of internal parts being carbon something something and the T5 box is pre BA and also in the BA N/As

Smashed the nail on the head there mate haha

Yeah that is very true, I enjoy accomplishing things myself. and I enjoy this car for what it is.. custom paint and the rest. The long term goal is very far in the future, I might even get a bf11 engine to start with. I really dont know. but right now I know I would like to keep the car.. and I know something needs to be done about the current problem. so im weighing the option with all 3rd party input provided and making a decision on what I should do.. hey oneday these will be classics. why not hold onto it right And people are forgetting I cant really sell the car with a buggered clutch anyway. If the car was in perfect working order having depreciated as much as it has I would still be in debt because of the dreaded interest. Still though thanks for the input people. keep it coming.

Thanks for your Input, very much appreciated. Haha!. I did too didnt I :/ Anyone else?

Yes was tuned with an Xcal 3. but has bolt ons and injectors. so reflashing back to stock would be a very time consuming and very saddening process. I feel my labour would be better spent on doing the conversion regardless the cost.

Yeah this is also a very doable option.. But I wouldnt enjoy driving the car anymore. as we all know.. Males + Horsepower + Easy on Pedal = Act of god

Ratter I very much agree,This is the option im very much leaning towards.Owning your own ford performance shop I know I can trust your word. Anyone else think this is the better option?

Detuning would be difficult as I live 450kms from my tuner and then that all adds to the cost of the final goal. Yeah I understand my long term goal is far fetched but it would a final project for me as a mechanic to build a reliable engine. Anyway that's a little off topic. My family has offering to help me pay for it which is very generous but we will see. I would really like to do the conversion and clutch first go for complete piece of mind and reliability. Otherwise I will never enjoy driving it again because I'm so concerned the gearbox will blow to pieces

Okay everyone, Bit of a long dribble so bare with me. Allright to start with I have a BA mk1 XR6T with 270rwkw and a t5z manual gearbox. and a short term (next two years) goal of 320RWKW and a long term goal (after I finish a mechanics apprenticeship) of a forged motor with around 400RWKW. The previous owner assured me it had a heavy duty clutch. I trusted her word and it does feel extremely heavy. So I got the car tuned without worrying about the driveline (exception of the heap of junk t5z) A nice 270.8RWKW rolled of Simons dyno, and I LOVE it. puts a smile on my face every time I press the pedal. However recently I cam accross a problem. The dreaded clutch slip.. 4th gear 3500rpm onwards.. free rev!! My heart absolutely sunk as I knew what it was straight away I just didnt really want to admit it to myself. holding my breath I had a peep under the car through the holes in the bellhousing.. The clutch looks stock as a rock. my suspicious confirmed. still not admitting to myself I posted on here asking what it could be.. sure enough multiple answeres returning with a slipping clutch. After doing a whole heap of research ive pretty much come to the conclusion that a new clutch, flywheel and slave cylender that will go into the t5z box roughly 1200$ correct? that's not so bad.. then more research. That clutch wont hold the long term goal.. or even the short term goal. Then more research still being slightly optimistic.. A heavy duty clutch being installed= no more t5z gearbox. so I then need to fork out for a gearbox conversion kit and a option 3+ clutch kit and postage. The cost. 6000$.. Im gonna write down the numbers going through my head and the different paths I can take. #1Save up for 8 months barely driving the car as is spend 6000$ on a bulletproof conversion sell the working t5z for almost 1000$ = $5000 spent over 8 months without much car use. #2Replace the clutch/ slave cylender in the t5z ($1200) save for a year HOPING TO GOD it doesnt break then do the bulletproof conversion ($6000) and then sell the t5z box for $1000= $6200 spent over spent over a year and a bit with car use. #2.5 Same as above but the gearbox breaks, sell the t5z for 100$ and have no car to drive for a year= $7100 spent over a year and half with no car use. #3. Spend $900 on a stock clutch and flywheel drive the car as per normal then save for a year and a half and do the conversion $6900 spent over a year and half with car use. #3.5 as above but the clutch slips again so end up doing conversion= $6900 spent over a year and half with unknown amount of car use. Before you say... Sell the car.. I cant. I will still be in debt. and I will be even more distraught over loosing the thing I love. I plan on keeping the car for a while. Through my mechanics apprenticeship and one day turn it into the perfect streeter for a final project. I need 3rd party opinions on this matter and if anyone has been through a similar situation id appreciate it if you shared.and the final questions: #1 What are the chances of the situation 2.5 happening and more importantly why? #2 What are the chances of situation 3.5 happening and why? #3 Personally. what would you do? All comments are welcome, however I will not be very impressed with extremely negative or rude ones. constructive criticism is one thing, flat out rudeness is another. Thanks everyone, Im looking forward to reading what you think. Dave

oh maybe it is off a T then. :/, she just said it was off a xr6 mk11, so im assuming it is NA. I dunno about you guys but I never EVER forget to put the T in afterwards

found one locally for 500$

Will do thanks everyone. And one last thing. Can anyone tell me if there is a different between te NA t56 and the T T56 as I can score a NA one pretty cheap. Would it be the standard new slip yoke conversion as per normal In sedans or are they different?

Anyone have any ideas as to the cheapest place to sell a opt3plus

Okay thanks guys, I'm guessing an opt 3+ would be the go for a 320rwkw goal?

Hey all. Come across a recent problem with my t. To start off its a BA mk1 5 speed manual. 270+rwkw. Just recent I accelerated from a 80 to a 110 zone planting it in 4th. Traction control was off. At about 4000 revs I got a bit of shudder and the revs climbed rapidly and the speedo basically stayed put. Tried again this morning in 4th pretty much the same scenario but revs didn't really climb just sounded as if it was free revving. Was very hard to tell if it was wheelspin or not.Stopped the car. Couldn't noticeably smell clutch however there was a faint smell. I could just be paranoid. Now the previous owner said it have a heavy duty clutch. It does feel very heavy. I had a peep through the holes in the bell housing and I couldn't see any bright colours on the pressure plate. So I'm guessing it's stock. Also I can't seem to do it in the lower gears 1st and second either lay a big skid or hook up and pin me to the seat so no problems there. I don't want to try it in 3rd as its the dreaded t5 box. Is this clutch slip? Or torque cut? Boost cut? Anything in particular? Any past experiences on this would be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys

If you just want a bit more noise and a few extra hp. Cut a hole or two in the bottom of your box and get a k and n panel filter to suit. Should give you a bit more noise bling and also give you a couple more seat of the pants hp. Save your money that setup would be good for upto 330rwkw or do what these boys are doing with the v8 air box and typhoon snorkel etc

I wouldn't risk it with this car mate. Even if You did it and it didn't f*ck your engine. It would Go into limp mode every time you nailed it and you wouldn't be able to use the few extra horsepower you got anyway. Sorry to say I really really dont think it's a good idea. But hey it's your engine!

I preordered mine for 80 bucks. Not sure what it goes for now after being released. I'd imagine 110$ would be the norm in stores