MX Dave

Keep in mind flow rate can change with a different cooler. Especially over the stock cooler I'd Defiantely check afrs. That's a lot of power for the stock unit :/

Any kind of automotive gasket goo would probably work well. I wouldn't bother with a construction adhesive if you wanted to take them off one day

I think maybe. Assraped a VP commodore.. Farout 6k???... Strong t5 gearbox??? Lots of power from a 5 litre??? He's on drugs lol

Yeah that's normal with age. Doesn't need replacing unless its weaping oil and snot.

Surprised you guys havent made a modded 320rwkw bench press machine. You need 275 x 30 x 19 pecks to lift the bitch.

Sounds logical to me . So much conflicting information though. Like hi powered vl turbos don't have blowoff valves and they last forever. There is also a ford engine maker that doesn't use them.. Nizpro I think?? Anyway bit off topic :/ Checking your pressuriSed hoses is a good idea as mentioned above^^

Black dust can also come from exhaust leaks.

That is some sexy lumpiness :o

Sorry just read it was a fg f6 you drove. Depending on what supporting mods you have even with your 10 psi tune the f6 would probably have a few more ponies, keep that in mind

There isn't any evidence to support that pressurised air not being vented can cause turbo damage. A 10 psi tune should be well on par with a stock f6. If the previous owner mentioned loose bolts perhaps re torque your inlet manifold and turbo exhaust side bolts. They are prone to getting loose. Good luck mate

Mate if you read it you woulda seen that it was a dodgy idler pulley and that the issue is fixed :/

I can't remember which Program I used. My hard drive failed and I lost it. Had all my woofer paremiters and everything in it haha. I done that a bit for making the bottom tread in staircases. I wouldn't recommend it for a speaker box unless you filled it all with a 2 part glue like west systems or aryldite. Up to you though mate. Best of luck

I use mdf also. And fibreglassed over the top if the customer wanted something in particular. Theoretically chipboard is the best material for sound reproduction but in practice it isn't so good because high powered subwoofers can flex it. So mdf is basically a compromise for sound and density. Just make sure your box is lined with a poliestier style wool. Also if you are using ports a Huge amount of calculations need to be taken into account I miss making doof doof haha

Best of luck. Thanks or the photos. Fingers crossed ay

Hey mate, I worked in the car stereo business for a little while. And can honestly say unless your amplifiers/ headunit and line driver if applicable is worth thousands and thousands of dollars I wouldn't bother with the expensive cabling. As long as the speaker wire has a decent strand count it will flow efficiently enough therefore a expensive product isn't particularly necasarry. The RCAs are a bit of a different story however. The more expensive te cable normally means it has better shielding properties therefore being less susceptible to interference and background noise. But the difference would be barely audible. If I were you I'd put that money to a better head unit with a better pre amp output a line driver or a amplifier with a better RMS output and a better total harmonic distortion rate. That would give you much more audible clarity over expensive speaker wire! Hope that info helped, Dave

My old man just bought 10 Z9s. Bloody legend!

Lol just noticed your sig^^^ I've never spent a huge amount of money with atomic. But he always been very helpfull which is a good thing in its own I think.

I made my own passenger side airbox. Probably around 120$ in total including the 9 inch k&n filter, Sounds Wicked

Well provided it's all in good order. They are great cars! And I agree with PP^^^ . Compression test an the turbo oil line/filter

Ask them to check for turbo bearing play. That would be your number 1 concern with those kilometres

I think there great cars because your getting a performance 4 door family car with great comfort, styling and plenty more potential in your case for 12-14k pretty good deal if you ask me

Well depends how bad of a failure. If the bearings seize etc then it's the cost of a new turbo and labour.. I'd say roughly 2500$ if it was to fail in the form of breaking a fin on the inlet side. Your probably looking at a whole new engine plus turbo and labour... Maybe 8000 plus it's hard to say. Either way it's not friendly on the pocket. The fins and bearings can be replaced I believe around 400 odd dollars in parts and maybe 500 plus in labour? Or you could simply buy another second hand turbo there are lots of options available.

12k would be reasonable in my opinion. I'd be very concerned about the turbo and oil feed with that many kilometres. Hopefully The rac fellas check for bearing play etc. best onluck with the purcash they are fabulous cars!

Good question!. I've read a few types of coolers can be difficult to fit it too. Otherwise its easy as!. . Undo your hose clamps. Gentle pulling and wiggling then new ones on. The bumper could probably stay on if you have gifted hands. I'd imagine the tray would have to come out though.

Is it popping The dipstick out? Could be some sort of Excess crankcase pressure. :/ god that's a weird sound!