MX Dave

Wish this was available 2 months ago^^^ haha nice job mal!

The remote function will not work while the car is running. The key should still work though.

It's all good. All those settings are on your amplifier mate

To tune an amp properly you need to have the input voltage sensitivity on the amp to suit your head unit. Depending on what head unit you have( guessing you don't have a line driver) it should be set between 1 and 3 volts. Then you need to set low level frequencie cut off. ( guessing your sub is a cheap unit and you have a universal box) it Gould be set around 80hz, however If you have a ported box that gets thrown out of the equation. Then you need to set te higher frequencie cut off. Guessing the same as above it shouldn't be anymore than 300hz but normally used to adjust this to suit what bass the the customer enjoyed. I they preferred deeper bass then you set it lower to around 200hz if they prefer higher frequency punchy bass then you can set it to around 400 even 500hz if the the sub is capable of it. Lastly you need to make sure the amp is switched to the low pass filter setting. That should Give you the sound the sub is supposed to make. But keep in mind there is a huge amount of variables involved as to what noise you get. Sub size. Sub direction. Sub orientation. Box size. Box type. Box construction and Ofcourse the quality of the gear you have. Hope that helped mate

At work we service ALL our cars at 10k intervals regardless of kms. At Tafe they say Turbocharged and Supercharged vehicles Should never be taken beyond 10k for a service/ oil change and in particular diesels. I change my oils every 6 months or 7500ks. Normally ends up being 6 months and 5500kms

yeah I have the best headunit available from blaupunkt. and the steering wheel interface cost about 150$. Fitted myself. and it doesnt work anywhere near as good as it did from factory. almost a waste of money.. In hindsight id much rather spend that on performance mods.. 15PSI sounds much better than doof doof now ive seen both worlds

To be legal it has to go back into the inlet tract. So fill your catch can with stainless steel scourers and it will get 90% if not all of the oil particles before it goes back into the inlet. On another note my catch can off the pcv after 7000kms has probably got about half a cup of oil in there. not including all the residue left on the scourers.

Lol yeah tempting. Need another round of mods before I get those. I hate to say it but that poxy L97 is a pretty decent engine once cammed and all :/ Wait!: LS ETR Not much concern with those engines

I really wanted 5LTRETA for plates... Until the coyote come out.

Yeah the t5 clutch fits fine without any mods. I actually fitted the box on Saturday to be honest haha. I got my t56 from a forum member for 2200 bucks with everything needed except oil basically ex a super pursuit with 60kms. Was a very lucky find though!

Haha. I drive a 03 BA turbo sedan. Mother drives a 11 focus hatch Old man drives a 11 ranger dual cab and a 67 mustang coupe And my sis drives a 04 terry. Ford family for the win

There was also the possibility of the t5 munching itself because of a stronger clutch so I figured it was the better option doing the box first and selling the t5 while it's actually worth something.

As far as I know the mal wood opt3 will not fit in the t5 box. I'm in the same boat. My t5 clutch was slipping so I've put in the t56 ready for once I get enough money for a nice clutch :/

Yeap! That's the one. I figured it was a breather. But the t5 didn't have a hose like that so I just wanted to make sure. Thanks Ralph All done now. Lovely gearbox. Doesn't feel as quick now lol.. Need more power :/

Well a good intake increases boost response. So a leak would mean more airflow. I did say pooftenth. So what I basically meant it would be neglectable if even noticable

You will be fine. If it does leak at all boost would just come on a pooftenth quicker and sound a pooftenth louder. Only thing I'd be concerned about is it sucking dirt.

Hey guys, Sticking my new box in at the moment. Seeing as my boss doesn't believe in workshop manuals I'm a bit puzzled about something on the box. There is a roughly 10mm diameter black hose that comes from the second shifter location that curls aroun the top of the box, over the bell housing with a little cap on it. Can somebody please tell me what this is? Thanks in advance, dave

Mate just spent 18k on a unpainted rolling shell.. So I'd say. Lots?

If your future goal is 400kw I'd buy a spanking new turbo to suit. How bad is the damage on your original? If its not so bad maybe a rebuild with a T04Z front cover or similar? All comes down to how much you have to spend. Don't forget the tuning afterwards if you change covers or turbos

Lol. Just got a mental image of them smashing the Juke R on the track! Haha that would be so wicked

I posted a thread about this a couple weeks ago man. Mine is at just under 70psi at noise around 32 at idle and 50ish at cruise. I use penrite sin 10w50

Wow your putting on weight quick! Taken me a year to put on 3kg. Lean mass though. Plus I don't use any protein powders. All natural is my preferred way. Mind you it is tempting after seein how quick people gain mass on roids :/

Yeah does he need a deck? Or a granny flat? Lol. I want a motor like that :( Lovely car mate. Excellent choice in mods. Thought of removing the spoiler?

Because the risk of breaking oil pump gears goes through the roof once fitted. Getting a few extra kw from a few hundred dollars with 100% extra risk is defiantely not worth it!

I'd lean towards fuel filter and/or valve springs. Fuel filter is cheap.. Try that first. Have you checked what error message it's spitting out?