MX Dave

ive been contemplating the same. Id like to do timing chain, cam gears, chain guide and oil pump before I crack the 300. until then im happy with 270 haha

mmmmmmmmMMMMMmmmmmmm *wipes off drool*

Traction control in my BA was violent. Threw me around like a rag doll. Now it's tuned it's great it will try and control you a bit but if you keep nailing it, it will turn itself off.

If you dont mind me asking. How much did that cooler, piping and over boost valve setup cost? Looks very very appealing to me

Lol^^

Leak down test would be next on the agenda I think

Crush depth with the spacer supplied was 0.5 mil into it's maximum allowances. Crush depth without was 0.5mil into its minimum allowed. So I left it out. I cleaned it with solvent and dried thoroughly with a lint free cloth as I do with all my clutches. And my rear main seal showed no signs what so ever of leaking. So I may have been mislead with run in period? I would of though a clutch capable of 400 odd kw would handle 270 with ease even not fully run in? This may be slightly off topic but is there a core plug behind the spigot bearing? I know the ls engines feature this. Not sure about the falcons though. If there is I may have unknowingly damaged it when removing the old spigot bearing. No one has had similar problems? I will cease driving aggressively for another few hundred Kms and see if the problem persists.

Hey guys. I recently put an ace option 3 plus clutch in my BA 1 falcon. Car is running 270rwkw. With basic mods. Now when I purchased the clutch I was told run in period for them is 500kms and they are good to go. Now I was being gentle during this run in period but at around 300 Kms in I pulled out of an intersection. Music blaring I casually accelerated. Revs jumped so I figured wheels were spinning a bit. So I went with it for a couple seconds. Immediately smelling clutch I backed off and noticed a small puff of smoke in the rear view mirror. A little concerned I continued my running in. Now 600kms in I've turned up the wick a bit. Driving aggressively but defiantely not harsh clutch wise. It's appearing to hold fine. But I'm still getting that slipping smell once in a while. I noticed an exedy stamp on the clutch plate. Do they make the plates for ace or have I received the wrong one? Is the run in period actually longer? Anyone else experienced this or similar? Thanks in advance guys!

Make sure you use a teaspoon of oil on your second compression test to allocate where the problem lies!

Personally I'd mount a twin post in the bay connect the original power wire to that bridging to a 0gauge on the other post all the way to the boot. You may be able to get away with 4ga.. But bigger is better . Split loom and tape your cable! Can't stress that enough. When I was working with car stereos saw many damaged complements due to people not protecting the power cables!

Just gotta fiddle with an engine mount. oil cooler and a block off a second dipstick hole and your set

I've had a 04 rmz250. Blew up about 5 times bloody heap of snot. Then Went to a 2 stroke yz250 then traded that on a 11yz450f. Now that is a bike and a half. Went from fourth on the fully modded 2 stroke to second and firsts on the stock 450! Used to have a zxr250c . 4 cylinder thing. 20000 revs is a bucketload . I would very much love a fuel injected r1 one day

Oil coolers are a sealed unit. Water on it would only aid in the cooling.

I wanna work with you guys haha. That's amazing

Still use a z9? Cool setup

Yeah I was thinking the same^. The internals aren't standard are they?

Roof lining . I'd use a sparing amount of contact adhesive . Wait about 5 or 10 minutes( a good test is the hairs on the back of your hand. If the stick too much it's too wet. When they just begin to not stick its ready) then with clean hands massage it into the adhesive. If you don't feel confident doing that ( messy stuff) take it I an automotive trimmer and they will probably do the same. Best of luck mate!

I use a single compitition 12 inch sub getting just over 2000watts rms in a dual ported box. Using remote gain control it provides a really good amount of bass in my falcon. But seeing as my normal listening gear is just as good quality I would like just a wee bit more when it's fully cranked.. But having that said I o ly turn it up that loud to show off. You'd literally go deaf from too much of It :/

The smaller the woofer, the tighter and punchier the bass is. The larger the deeper and resonant the bass is. 12inch is a ideal compromise. But personally I think a 10 inch with a really long throw sounds best!

To put it simply the springs aren't strong enough to shut the valves when the cam Is suppose to. So they can stay open on all strokes sometimes. You get blow through. No compression or ignition. If it happens too many times you can loose a collet or both collets and drop the valve ( engine rebuild )

Yeah 0.8 with a iridium plug seems to provide good results. You only need to change them every 100k prob 50k in a modded car. Or if you are about to mod at least regapp them

Have you tried a stephascope or a long screwdriver to pinpoint where or where the noise isn't coming from?

Yep springs are going soft mate. Valve float

Roll over noise is from the gear box mate. Not from the bell housing. It's a completely normal noise and can be dampened by adding more oil. It's quite the opposit with the clutch in. With the clutch in the gearbox is disengaged. Therefore the lay shaft is not spinning inside the box and no rollover noise. The noise is louder with ac engaged because the engine slightly increases revs. Same with the power steering.

Stereo. Engine noise is much nice in these turbo falcons