MX Dave

I'll post up pics tonight. Are you fella's running capacitors? I'm using 2x 2.5 farad

I used to make speaker boxes for a living. I'm using a single blaupunkt vpc300 competition 12 inch sub getting 1000wrms each coil. Perfect for my taste. Crisp, punchy and deep. Unfortunately it runs out of legs when the volume is it ear splitting level and the mid and high stage start taking over. But having that said that's all conpetition stuff also so it outweighs it a little bit. I can put pics up tonight if anyone wanted a look? Think I got a couple of the box build aswell.

Yeah I do.

Haha my BadPing.hax are almost always turned on

Personally I wouldn't bolt up a gm transission onto a ford. Mal wood t56 or a glide. Seeing as you want mega ponies a glide would probably be better! Looking fOrward to this build if it's gonna happen :D

Oh on PC btw

Any of you guys interested in a 4v4 sometime? Add me and we can sort somin out : tacRes-MocdooF Or just join any old server and have some fun, I'm keen

90ftlbs with red loctite mate

How are all you fellas progressing? Haven't check this thread in a while. I changed my routine, put on a lean 2kg since January

The falcons concentric slave cylinder can be difficult to bleed at the best of times. After normal bleeding procedure I normally undo the cap on the resiovouir and pump the clutch for about 5 to 10 minutes which self bleeds the rest, other people just let te car sit for Half a day with the cap off and it basically does the same job, best of luck! Keep in mind if it hasn't self bled by now something is probably wrong.

I think I got one in the shed. I can look if you like?

The centre bearing? If you buy from ford you can only buy a complete tail shaft I think. I believe mal wood sells the centre bearing on its own.

haha good job

Hey mate im really curious about this rebuild your doing. I may head down a similar path later on. The spool rods your bought. Did they come with gudgeon pins and big end bearings etc? You going to get your crank freshened up? new main bearings, grind etc? I assume your gonna put in headstuds and gaskets and all that junk? You gonna freshen up the bores and do the rings aswell? If you dont want to answere any of that its all good, Im just curious.

The more WOT and high revs you do will equate to more oil in the inlect tract yes. although lots of idling will have a similar result from the PCV. Every second service we usually remove the intake side and clean it out properly. Frees up a couple hidden ponies aswell. A company falcon turbo car that comes in regurlary has a similar problem like yours. Silicon joiners weeping oil despite all the clamps being tight. The car gets thrashed often so the problem is rather apperant. Oil will still slightly weep from those joiners if there is alot of it in there or if you are a very spirited driver but both of those causes normally revolve aorund one another haha. Id still double check them to be sure

If its red in colour its ATF fluid coming from the power steering pump overflow which is nothing to be concerned about unless its a HUGE amount of oil If its black in colour its probably from the crank breather. Ive seen a couple FGs that seem to throw a rather large amount of oil into the inlet tract for some reason. I reccomend taking off all your inlet pipes and perhaps your hot/cold side piping aswell if you wanted to get serious about it. clean all the snot out of them... hot soapy water, then solvent or paint thinners then blow all the moistere out with compressed air. reassemble and repeat every 20000 or so.. How much is it exactly?

Yep totally agree^ Mods can you please pin this if you feel necasarry. Id hate it to go unnoticed and for it to happen to someone else, Thanks!

would be fun to see what happens there, You reusing the stock pistons in your turbo motor? or do you have better items to go in?

easiest fix for me was a line driver, then tuning your voltage input frequency to a higher level to suit which will make it less susceptible to interference. I tried bigger earths, extra cable shielding, etc. with no luck. A ground loop isolator also slightly helped.. Best of luck

Lol yeah I mentioned that. Kept asking him if his VS ecotec had enough balls to break CVs

Thanks Paulie, Thought I really should post this up to save it from happening to anybody else. The worst thing of all another apprentice mechanic was with me at the time who works at holden.. God the sh*t he was giving me was unbelievable! haha I will get him back!.. somehow

Hello all. Ive had a serious run of bad luck of late. Just wanted to share what has happened so hopefully all you fella's can hopefully avoid the same mishabs. Keep in mind this is all on apprentice wages so it may help you understand how frustrating and upsetting this is for me haha. So about.. 4 Months ago my stock clutch started to let go (4th gear free rev), I managed to find a t56 Gearbox to put in so I could actually put in a decent clutch without worrying about gearbox failure. spent a whole pile of money there 3 Months ago I installed the t56 and saw the damage the stock clutch had endured. It needed a new one SOON. so another non existant pile of money later. A sexy new ACE Option 3 plus clutch arrived at work. 2 Months ago I installed this lovely piece of gear as per instructions and as I normally do with every other clutch throughout my apprenticeship and started to run it in. It was Brilliant!! Ill emphasize the word; was. As it progressively got worse. Thinking this was simply because of the run in period and the clutch not fully bedded in I clinched my teeth and continued to run in it. 1100kms later it was apperant something was wrong. no improvement, occassional burning smell. take off wasnt 'bite like' anymore. I gave Mal Wood a quick call and he suggested I defianately remove the box to have a look as something was defianately wrong! So the next day I removed the box (again again again) and discovered my worst fear; After unbolting the gearbox from the bellhousing I could see it had been slipping badly. Clutch fibres sprayed out around the bellhousing and the obvious smell that accomponies it. I removed the Pressure Plate and everything wasnt that exciting to look at, Burn marks all the way through the pressure plate, Concaved and Convexed pockets burn marks all the way through the flywheel and again Concaved and vexed sections of material. Furry Clutch plate etc.. All the bad sh*t! After a few casual swearwords and a beer I started to look for the cuplrit. 5 seconds later the cause was obvious to me; Coolent in the bellhousing. How on earth did this get here!?! A quick pressure test and I found a rather steady drip coming from the heater hose above the gearbox.The 2 second concurrent drip worked its way through the breather in the top of the box and decided to apply itself all over my previously sexy clutch. I removed the hose and the clamp wasnt in its peak physical form and simply wasnt holding pressure as good as it used to. Two new hose clamps and a pressure test later the leak was fixed! I advise EVERYONE to double check this fitting as you dont want a simple $2 hose clamp to ruin your clutch as it did mine. I know some people are using more expensive clutch versions than mine and it would be sad to see them fail for the same reason! The best fix for me was: 1. Remove the heater hose and clean up any and all corrosion on the male pipework 2. Retain the factory clamp on the firewall side if still usable! 3. Slide over 2 new hose clamps on the other and proceed to push it over the pipe on the rear of the engine. 4. If you look closely at that pipe you will see it has two ridges. Push it further up and over the second ridge aswell for added safety. 5. Tighten each hose clamp to correspond with each ridge first with a screwdriver then with a suitable socket and ratchet!!! Keep in mind the right hose clamp should really be further accross to correspond with the second ridge ( I was very tired and very angry at the time) I can not stress the second part of number 5 enough!, even using both the ridges and two clamps. tightening with a screwdriver alone simply wasnt enough. The pressure test still showed a slight leak! You MUST use a socket to tighten them for complete piece of mind. I really do hope this will help some people as I dont want to see anyone suffer as much as I have from a simple poxy hoseclamp. To top it off I must of been having a incredibly BAD day. After I cleaned up the former prom queen of a clutch to the best of my abilities and reassembled everything. On my way home I somehow manadged to snap a inner rear right CV joint. 3 hours of attempting to fit it on my rather small car trailer at close to midnight I also managed to drop my Iphone and crack the screen.. WHAT THE HELL!!

Your car must be tuned, that's normal. I believe it's to avoid oil pump failure

1100 kms and has only slightly Improved. Taking the box out tomorrow to have a look. Again again again :/

Pretty Certain that BA1 BA2 BF1 regardless of N/A or turbo all had the same conrods. BF2 and the BA1,2,3 LPG and F6 versions all had the same conrods which are margionally stronger but the pistons in the Falcon turbos are slightly concaved to lower compression.