Epic XR6

Pretty much same question ^ Is there any brands NOT to put in the engine?

Just watch the temp gauge on the dash and make sure it's doesnt go over half with normal driving and you will be right. If you want to improve the engine bay temp ensure your radiator's fins arent blocked and grills arent covered with a massive number plate, air filter is clean and unblocked, Exhaust system flowing well, Fan's are kicking in at the right speeds and temp's, not sure what else will making the engine bay hot, Heat sheilds on the turbo and exhaust manifold,,,, etc Really if some of these are happening your engine coolant temp on your gauge would be reading higher.

What the hell you undoing with a 3/4 Rattle gun ? Or you using it @ work?

Welcome to the forum Ferris. As for your questions here goes. Q1~ Change the oil around 5000-8000kms as turbo cars get the oil hotter and breaks down quicker. Cleaning the throttle body and inlet pipes of oily residue each service. Make sure all your boost clamps are tight and always check them each service. Make sure your wastegate is moving freely and check for cracks/kinks in the signal line. that's a few I can think of atm im sure more people can to this. Q2~ Its harder if you dont understand all your turbo components and how they work. But the basic engine checks/fluids remain the same. Q3~ Yes!! If your going to get someone to do all the servicing/maintaince then you dont need to know stuff all about cars at all. Q4~ The cost for changing the engine oil and filter more often will be a little bit more. Plus a little bit of time on checking the turbo mount bolts and clamps and inlet oil cleaning may add a bit more to the bill. Im sure most of this stuff you could pick up on reading these forums as there is many many How To's on here. Anyways that my 2 cents welcome again and enjoy your stay

Sounds like plug/coil troubles to me. Unburnt fuel goin through the engine and into the exhaust burning in there making the cat glow red. Even new plugs can fail, if dropped or hit on somthing or maybe a dud one from the factory. A little crack in the porcelain will cause it to earth out on the head and not in the cylinder. Make sure all your coils and plugs are clean around them and the connectors are tight first.

What do you mean the pipes were boiling?? Were they just really hot? Were they steaming out water everywhere? Any leaks??? If they were just really hot this is normal.

I really think you should get the F6. The vibe im getting from your posts, is that's what you want. It's your car at the end of the day if you dont like the looks of the FG then so be it. SO go for it!!! and let the pic's flow onto the forums.

Snap-on Tools are the best but cost five times more. Blue-point are a cheaper snap-on brand just as good imo. Sidchrome are good tools as well. IMO Repco arent bad. Iv'e had my repco spanner's and sockets for 8 years now and I use them 5 days a week at work. The only time I need to replace them is when I lose one or really using the sockets on a rattle gun. Maybe the current repco tools are bad, not sure, but my 8 year old one's are great. Invest in a good ratchet (Snap-on or Sidchrome) becuase most of the cheap one's will end slipping and causing you grief. Get some wobble drive extension's for getting into angle's. Oil Filter strap. Torx bit's for airbox and plastic panel's. Telescopic magnet. Long, long-nose plier's may help to get to plugs if the magnet dosent work. Decent work light, I find the versa-light that snap-on sells to be great. (still going after 4 years) Magnetic bolt tray. Guard covers. The list could go on forever a man never has enough tools. Also a man's shed is never big enough.

Double check it's on the right side of the BOV piping, Sounds like it's hooked up wrong to me. One side is the suction into the turbo and the other is the pressure side of the turbo inlet, If it's on the suction side it will definatly suck more vaccumm when your turbo is kicking in. Maybe a photo will help us out?

New diff wont be cheap.. Sounds like the trailing tooth pattern wasnt meshing right. (off the throttle) Adjustment came loose or something. (Just a guess) Is your mechanic going to rebuild the diff or just replace it?

Superchargers are directly related to engine rpm so if you turn the engine off the S/C wont be spinning at all (zero engine rpm). Turbochargers free spin on its own bearing and will take around 20 - 50 secs to stop spinning after the engine is turned off. All cars should be be allowed to idle down not just turbo cars. If you've been giving your car heaps around town and the temp is up, let it idle down this will keep the coolant flowing through the engine. When you turn your car off the engine actually gets hotter for a short period, because the water pump has stopped the flow of coolant and all the hot water is sitting in one spot still trying to transfer the heat away from the engine.

Here's the Australian one for anyone interested.

Ok guys, Thanks for all your input. Decided to go with the Royal purple and change it this weekend (@ 6000kms'ish) (inc $250) Then getting ford to do my servicing @ 15,000km's with my oil. And then again @ 30,000kms and so on. But just before this ^ service I'll get an oil sample kit from work (around $30 I think inc lab testing and report) to suss how the oil is doing, this should tell me the real story. Ill post up my results. (but it will be a while) BTW omg turbo falcons are freaking win!!!! Loving it atm.

Ok, so I've read way too much about oil. (engine oil sticky thread) Got a FG XR6t with 5,500kms on the clock and trying to sort out a service schedule. People say 15,000kms is way too long to wait, So I was thinking fine I'll do an oil change myself every 7,500kms (in between ford ones) Now went to autobarn today for some oil was going for the Royal Purple 10W-40 $100 per 5L bottle....... Had second thought's and left to think about it more. Checked out the Royal Purple website tonight and they are recommending up to 20,000km's service interval's. So now im thinking ok get the Royal Purple 10W-40 change it asap. ($200 outlay need more than 5L's) Next service at Ford 15,000kms buy some more Royal Purple and get them to change it using my oil and then just repeat using the ford recommended interval's at 15,000kms. What do you guys think? Is it better to use a lesser quality oil more often or a better one for longer interval's?

Also another thing to look out for is the blow off valve leaking under boost. My R32gts-t used to do it bad just swapped it out and it was all good.

I've also just got myself a new FG sedan and it's freaking awesome. Going to keep it completly stock till my warranty is out. (wife will also kill me being the "family car") They flog heaps of cars on the road stock anyway. My only problem is my brother has a FG F6......

You cant have heaps of KW's (Hp)of power. Without much Nm's (ftlbs) of torque. IMO just find a big hill drive a small car up it. Then go back with a diesel 4wd. This is the first time I really saw torque in action and fully understood it's importance. Drag racing these two cars in a straight line the small pertol would flog the pants off the 4wd. But up the mountain range it had no chance.

Most definatly sounds like an exhaust leak in the first video. (look for cracks/blown out gasket material) Ensure your using the correct oil in your engine as the valve train will knock a bit if it's wrong. (my old EF falcon made these bad rocker tapping noise's after putting the wrong oil in the old girl)

Turbo timer's arent a bad idea, There the keep oil up to your turbo's bearing's while it's still spinning (not lettting it run dry) Keeping it idle for a few mins makes sure your turbo is spining at it's slowest speeds (least exhaust pressure's @ idle). Turbo's can keep spinning after and engine has been shut off for a few min's so you want to ensure this spinning time (with no oil pressure feed) is the least amount you can get it. Idling an engine during the run in phase is definatly bad, But after that it takes a while for and idling engine to glaze up. Look at taxi's they idle alllll day but last forever, it's because they are kept warm 24/7 so once again Let your engine warm up and cool down.

I've heard stories of freshly rebuild engines getting started on dyno's (chassis dyno) With instant load to prevent any glazing of the bore's. I used to run an engine dyno for diesel engine's (150-2800 hp) and we would definatly warm it up with a decent 20-30% load. From then on increasing our rpm by 100 each time(max rev's being 2150rpm) with 40-60% load, finally getting to max rpm and 100% load for 2-3 hrs. Also keeping an eye on the exhaust color and smoke making sure that no blue smoke was present. Most likly completly different with petrol engine's as the rpm's are much much higher. Proberly the most helpful thing I can contribute to this thread is to always let your engine warm up and cool down. Metal expands and you dont want that process to happen really quickly. Things Warp,Crack,Bend. Also a good idea to take it sort of easy from new, as new things can fail too and the more Speed/Rpm/Strain determines what sort of a mess will be left after it fails. (engine, gearbox, diff, your whole car, your life, or just a rattle/ticking for the time being)

Hey guys, Just got myself a new FG XR6 Turbo, 6 speed ZF, Viper. Been looking at these forums for a while you guys really helped me get a good deal