Epic XR6

Pretty much same question ^ Is there any brands NOT to put in the engine?

Just watch the temp gauge on the dash and make sure it's doesnt go over half with normal driving and you will be right. If you want to improve the engine bay temp ensure your radiator's fins arent blocked and grills arent covered with a massive number plate, air filter is clean and unblocked, Exhaust system flowing well, Fan's are kicking in at the right speeds and temp's, not sure what else will making the engine bay hot, Heat sheilds on the turbo and exhaust manifold,,,, etc Really if some of these are happening your engine coolant temp on your gauge would be reading higher.

What the hell you undoing with a 3/4 Rattle gun ? Or you using it @ work?

Welcome to the forum Ferris. As for your questions here goes. Q1~ Change the oil around 5000-8000kms as turbo cars get the oil hotter and breaks down quicker. Cleaning the throttle body and inlet pipes of oily residue each service. Make sure all your boost clamps are tight and always check them each service. Make sure your wastegate is moving freely and check for cracks/kinks in the signal line. that's a few I can think of atm im sure more people can to this. Q2~ Its harder if you dont understand all your turbo components and how they work. But the basic engine checks/fluids remain the same. Q3~ Yes!! If your going to get someone to do all the servicing/maintaince then you dont need to know stuff all about cars at all. Q4~ The cost for changing the engine oil and filter more often will be a little bit more. Plus a little bit of time on checking the turbo mount bolts and clamps and inlet oil cleaning may add a bit more to the bill. Im sure most of this stuff you could pick up on reading these forums as there is many many How To's on here. Anyways that my 2 cents welcome again and enjoy your stay

Sounds like plug/coil troubles to me. Unburnt fuel goin through the engine and into the exhaust burning in there making the cat glow red. Even new plugs can fail, if dropped or hit on somthing or maybe a dud one from the factory. A little crack in the porcelain will cause it to earth out on the head and not in the cylinder. Make sure all your coils and plugs are clean around them and the connectors are tight first.

What do you mean the pipes were boiling?? Were they just really hot? Were they steaming out water everywhere? Any leaks??? If they were just really hot this is normal.

I really think you should get the F6. The vibe im getting from your posts, is that's what you want. It's your car at the end of the day if you dont like the looks of the FG then so be it. SO go for it!!! and let the pic's flow onto the forums.

Snap-on Tools are the best but cost five times more. Blue-point are a cheaper snap-on brand just as good imo. Sidchrome are good tools as well. IMO Repco arent bad. Iv'e had my repco spanner's and sockets for 8 years now and I use them 5 days a week at work. The only time I need to replace them is when I lose one or really using the sockets on a rattle gun. Maybe the current repco tools are bad, not sure, but my 8 year old one's are great. Invest in a good ratchet (Snap-on or Sidchrome) becuase most of the cheap one's will end slipping and causing you grief. Get some wobble drive extension's for getting into angle's. Oil Filter strap. Torx bit's for airbox and plastic panel's. Telescopic magnet. Long, long-nose plier's may help to get to plugs if the magnet dosent work. Decent work light, I find the versa-light that snap-on sells to be great. (still going after 4 years) Magnetic bolt tray. Guard covers. The list could go on forever a man never has enough tools. Also a man's shed is never big enough.

Double check it's on the right side of the BOV piping, Sounds like it's hooked up wrong to me. One side is the suction into the turbo and the other is the pressure side of the turbo inlet, If it's on the suction side it will definatly suck more vaccumm when your turbo is kicking in. Maybe a photo will help us out?