knoles

Cheers. Will bring home a dial gauge tomorrow and check my rotor run out and check all wheel weights. Hopefully I find a conclusive fault as I've got a 1700km trip to the tuna's in 2 weeks and don't need any hiccups.

Hey guys Just in need of some advise on what my issue may be. Today, driving on the highway, cruise control set at 110km. I get this faint noise, kind of like a helicopter type of "whoo ,whoo, whoo". Only quiet but gradually got louder over about 30 seconds. No noticeable pulling or dragging. So I give the brake pedal a quick stab to try isolate it and it goes away. It came back twice again during my 180km trip. Hard to pick where the noise was coming from. Sounds like a wheel out of balance kinda, and sends a minor vibration through the car. But always goes away with a quick touch on the brakes Any body experienced this? I got a theory that it may be rotors warped and allowing the pad to begin to fall over and just touch the rotor, but that is just the first thing that came to mind. Front rotors are fairly worn, pads have done about 5000kms, rears I've never touched since I've had it and look to be in good working order. 4 & 1 brembos.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FART-BE-GONE-XLARGE-MOTHER-OF-ALL-FART-PADS-Flatulence-Deodorizer-Pad-TRIM-/280916212413?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4167e93abd&_uhb=1#ht_18907wt_1271

From the reviews, its a good product From experience, very hard to get what you order. Very nice bloke but some of my parts got "sent" numerous times. Gave up in the end and sold it. Ordered a nizpro kit and it arrived exactly as requested and within a couple days.

I dont think they have one. I tried chasing up the silver colour code to paint cd player facia and there wasnt a code.

Was more talking about when painting a 2nd hand boot but I get the idea thanks. Mine is broken from having subs facing upwards only about 50mm from the boot lid :-(

When painting just the boot lid does the paint nor.ally match fairly well or have your had to have it blended in along th qtr panels? Also has any one had the threaded parts that the hinge bolts to break out from having subs?

Haha nah it got moved from my own thread and put in hear.

Just thought id add that it needs to be a 2-2.75" silicone adapter and not a 2-2.5". Its a very tight fit getting it on but it'll go with a bit of soapy lube

I went with XFT and am going back again. Very helpful people. MT didnt even want to tune on 95 for me so the decision was made up. Would've gone back to XFT any way. They seem more genuine to help and get your car right.

Can someone put up a photo of the hole the cable should run into under the rear seat? I couldn't get close to running 0 gauge cable through anywhere

Cant remember exactly but found it using the search function.

XFT do they're flapper mods a bit differently to most other workshops. They send them to another workshop which welds something and does some magic and viola, no overboost. I thought it was over priced as well until I spoke to them. It's what works best for them.

Very valid point ^ . Looks to be not much plumbing involved which would make it fairly closely priced to a direct replacement.

Why wouldn't they make it to fit in the stockie spot?

No idea about the FG but fark I wish I could drift like those jap cars

I had a suspicion that, that would be the case. Had a bit of a look on the ford parts program the other day with the fella from Cov's and couldn't find it. He just quoted me 4k for a new turbo instead lol. Whats the garrett number for the housing we need? Thanks Ratter

Abit of that info is about the housing specs. Unsure about the rest of it. I'm after the ford part number for a replacement turbine housing.

Does any one know the part number for the ford exhaust housings?

I did mine on a concrete floor.... was better than paying someone to do it but was pr1ck of a job. Rolled it out on a trolley jack. Did all the bushes though and was a major improvement. Took all weekend and about 2 cartons of beer. We took it very easy though. Most of the time was doing the suspension arm bushes/rose joints and making a tool to install the side diff bushes. Dropping & reinstalling the cradle out took very little time. Replace the axle seals while your doing it. One of mine is leaking bit now

Nolathane have released new bushes to suit these cars. Have not heard of anyone using them though. Look similar to the superpro one's but appear to be easier to install due to not being steel cased outer bushes. (just what I took from the pics in the covs catalogue) I have super pro and cant fault them though.

Nice. Did they install any more batteries and is your spare wheel accessible? The labour alone on an install like that would have chewed a fair bit of that $7k.

Looks tops mate. I bet she pumps hard. What head unit and/or processor you running?

This is something I've been looking at heaps lately. I've just bought a nizpro exhaust and stg 1 cooler kit and getting WG done. Do you guys reckon one of the passenger side intakes will gain much? Looking mainly at the blupower ones because of they're look and finish. If I can get a good outcome with this round of mods it might keep me away from upgrading for a while. Only looking to get one second hand though because the $650 price is more than I can spare at the moment and in the end wont loose too much money on it when inevitably upgrading.

^ yes. Turbo wheels dont just shatter out of no where. bearings fail then they make contact with housing (turbo replacement) or something goes through them and you have other issues like failed airfilter, piping, internal paint flaking etc, and in this case you will at least need the wheel replaced and the issue fixed and also the turbo rebalanced and checked out, possibly rebuilt. Bearing failure can also have a number of causes like blocked oil feed line or imbalance. best to get it checked out properly or you'll probably throw money away. You should also try to find the missing pieces of turbo, they don't normally disappear.