knoles
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Everything posted by knoles
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Build date will also play a part in it. XFT put up a pic of a tune only fg f6 325kws and I asked is that average or is if it was a bit stronger than others and he reckons average for them if they are after a certain build date. Id be so stoked with that.
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287.94kw
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I had wear very similar to yours, probably a bit worse. Did lower and upper arm bushes myself. Fixed the problem 100%. Easy enough job. Will need a press, and mark the cross member before you loosen the bolts to get the arms out. A spare pair of hands helps with getting the lower arms back in but I did do mine myself, just involved lots of cursing and a few dummy spits.
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Love the white one but them rims make those brakes look tiny
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Yeah the old 95 sure makes things harder. Im pretty happy with it, SHOULD be fairly reliable as it is, but prepared for the inevitable.
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Hey guys Finally get to start my own thread in here! My car is 2006 BF Phoon. Had it nearly 2.5yrs and only just made it in. Spent lots of coin on the old girl over the time, mostly on maintenance things. Did all bushes with super pro ones, bilstein shocks, king springs, DBA T3 rotors & remsa pads, braided lines, R spec rims, removed the tow bar that came on the car, meticulous servicing, installed lots of stereo whist trying lots of combos along the way. But that's not what got me here, soooooooo. Mods include ID1000 jectors Nizpro stg1 cooler Nizpro 4" zorst Walbro GSS 341 Waste gate & actuator mod ZF tune This was tuned by XFT and made good power according to them. 337kw & 307kw on 98 & 95. Very happy with the 98 tune, breath taking acceleration, traction is sketchy under 100kmh, better than stock fuel economy. 95 tune feels like its 100hp less after coming from the 98 tune but that's just the joy of living in the pilbara!
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Where Do You Buy (Genuine) Dark Argents At A Reasonable Price?
knoles replied to NVT's topic in Wheels and Tyres
Keep an eye on ebay. I got 5 genuine twist rims in perfect condition for $1200 not long ago -
Mine does they same thing too
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Theres $100 difference between the pw stg 2 and the nizpro stg 1
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Went through the same choice not long ago. Nizpro is a bigger cooler, a little bit more pricy, doesnt scream bling, works well. Process west is smaller, looks nicer, a tad cheaper, also works well and also has the option of the throttle body relocation, not just plenum. But IMO the nizpro plenum and intake looks the best and my tuna reccomends their gear so that's what I went with
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Well put about 1500kms on it since new rotors wemt on amd all went well.
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What do you need to do to race at kwinana on wednesdays? Can I just rock up and race? Need a helmet?
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Cirque de solie rocks!
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Dynamat will reduce the outside sound a bit, but if that's your main goal there are better products out there. Dynamat is mainly to lower the resonant frequency of the part your applying it to hence being put on large sheet metal sections. I got and used 2 full bulk packs on my sedan and could have easily used another. The cheapest place to get it is to search "dynamat bulk" on ebay.com (the yanky site, not aussie) and just organise price and postage lowest first. You need a good roller as the free ones they chuck in are sh*t normally. There are cheaper alternatives you can use but they are an inferior product, pretty much you get what you pay for. Have a search around the MEA & DIYMA forums and you'll find heaps of good info on sound deadening and insulating. Actually I lied 2 sellers in australia are now selling the bulk packs for 190 shipped, bargain! Less than I payed
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Thanx for the help fellas
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Does anyone know of a good shop I can go to and get a decent RO polisher and some extra bits and bobs from in perth? Not so worried about where they are just want a good shop with fair prices, good knowledge and good customer service. Close to kalamunda if theres a few good choices.
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Spent all arvo fitting my nizzy stg 1 cooler. I now hate performance mods and will happily pay to have things fitted for me. Also fitted my DBA T3 front rotors, remsa pads and braided lines in the morning.
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A cap may make your lights dim more. Will help supply your amps with more power but then keep drawing power after the big bass note to recharge itself. Most car audio nuts say a cap is not needed in a system with enough power supply.
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Just to run a 3000w stereo a 2nd battery will be needed. I dont think a h/o alternator will be nescessary. Dimming of the lights will always happen with big bass notes. A good battery nears the amps will help heaps with this, a cap may make it worse.
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The holes become elongated when they come loose and will keep coming loose. When you say flywheel I assume its manual? Mostly happens to the flex plates on the autos, I've not heard of a manual having the problem. Will need a new one either way I reckon
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For 3kw stereo id just upgrade the front battery and add a rear one. When playimg music your amps will rarely get to their rated output. Havimg amp gaims down doesnt mean it won't put out its rated power as well. They are just there to match your input signal to the output. IE: if you have a source unit with low signal you'll need alot of gain, source unit with very high signal you would need less gain to get the same output. Higher signal means you can also turn your sensitivity down thus reducing background noise. I have amps equalling about 2000w rms running off just an upgraded optima battery in the front and its fine. Cant really have it flat out for too long anyway, makes you feel queezy. And broke my boot lid :-( just use good batterys and good cable with good installation
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A 2nd battery will definately help. How many RMS watts are you using? How long are you planning on having it pumping flat out? A stereo bigger than what the stock alternator can keep up with will tear the car to pieces.
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Measured up run out on fronts, 2-3/1000" at multiple spots. So not too bad but found the rotors to be more worn than I thought. To the point where the slots are starting to wear out and become uneven and were clogged with brake dust. So finally bit the bullet and ordered dba t3's, remsa pads and braided lines. Will check rears on the weekend. Also changed my noisy steering rack and pump. Car is sooo much nicer to drive now. Will let yous know how it goes! Also if your looking at getting the rotors a seller on ebay called vic performance had my rotors for 522.50 plus 20 postage so I was stoked at that price.
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I've never actually checked rotor run out before..... do I just remove wheel then reinstall wheel nuts to keep rotor in place and measure like that or do you do it with wheel on?
