knoles

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WOW FPVF6 310. Id be devo if that was me, hope ya get it sorted with whoever tuned it originally.

I thought that the 95 doesnt hurt the N/A engines as bad as boosted engines? The more I drive it the more im liking it the way it is now, first impression was not as exhilarating as I anticipated. Im loving "spirited driving" around the LIA. Im certainly alot more impressed with it now, I found that big fat mid range power with 1/2-3/4 throttle, boost does come one quite easily above 3000rpm. As I said before the main thing that dissapionted was 3rd gear acceleration from 120, power comes on steady, boost builds steady & "feels" slow, but this is perfect for 1st & 2nd gears I have since learned Simon said stock BF F6 should run 200-220kws on his dyno, with my parts 280-290 then minus 20-25 from using 95 fuel, so he was spot on. I dont think he got a before dyno print out as it got tilt trayed there due to a rock cracking my trans pan and they did all the work at once. I didnt get an after as it went missing or misplaced, I wasnt to fussed at the time. When I called to chase it up his dyno had just been removed to replace so it'll be jan or feb before I get it.

Yea mate, If ya see a mercury silver BF foon that'll be mine! there are very few turbo falcons up here, I can count all the f6's ive seen on one hand. What brings ya this way?

Thanks heaps for the opinions guys, I suppose I dont really live in the best environment for extreme tunes. especially considering its coming into summer and fuel suppliers up here are known for poor quality fuels. havnt really had a day below 35 to test it out yet. I put my faith in XFT that they have done the most suited tune to my needs. Because of the fuel and temps up here it would have bugger all timing and only ran 11psi. Driveability is great, the flutter is addictive and fuel ecconomy is good. I think I was just expecting more WOW at first. comparing to stock while overtaking road trains by the time I got to the prime mover it would be around 160kmh, now by the time im up to the back of the first trailer im backing off because im up around 160/170 so it is quicker by a fair bit. The biggest thing I wasnt happy with is boost building in 3rd from 120, feels very slow and laggy and by the time boost is up its getting too quick to appreciate on the street. Ive only ever really taken notice of truck boost gauges mostly on old cummins where it just pings from vac to full boost so that's a chalk and cheese comparison, ive never owned a turbo'd car before or had much to do with them. all in all I wouldnt have anything else.

Hi Yeah there's alot of valid points there in regards to weather and he knew I was from there so he probably wouldve taken that all into account, it does actually move fairly quick once on boost, just doesn't feel like it I suppose. It's only 270 odd kws so it's no rocket ship. I have Goodyear eagle f1 assymetric 2 tyres so they would help wheel spin issues too I suppose? I've had fairly little time to thrash it and the more I do the more used to it I get, re learning to drive it.

I'll get on to the boost solenoid on the W/E. New fuel filter on there before tune. I suppose I was expecting a bit more by comparing to all you people with your flash 98 fuel. I'll TRY getting hold of simon tomorrow, hes a very busy person from the impression I got. I dont doubt his expertise, as this is why I went there. I'll see if it can be tweaked for boost to hit harder. Its also got 2x2.5 cat back and K&N panel as well but I dont think they would make much difference Cheers

Where I live I can only get 95. Boost does come on gradually. If I floor it at 40 it will snap back and spin at top of first and a lil into 2nd but not much. the part that didnt impress at all was accelerating from 120, laggy to come on to boost and kinda slow feeling. It does go alright if I go from first and its got boost going to the next gears. Im back in Port Hedland now so no going back for a while, maybe just need more bits. I'll get the dyno print out off him tomorrow and post it up. Cheers

Hi guys I got my BF F6 tuned at XFT the other day. It made 267kw apparently with ID1000s and a 5" venom cat but it was tuned on 95. I thought it would be more of a big jump in power but I was a little underwhelmed with it. Wont spin in any gear. Its a bit punchier in midrange and a bit quicker in the top end but not what I expected. I took my mates for a spin and it didnt really impress. Is this normal for this power level? How quick should it accelerate from say 40 - 120?

Hi guys The other day I was driving around perth and ran over a large rock and its hit the plastic trans pan. I didnt notice it leaking till the next day as I went to back out the driveway to drive to the airport and saw a small puddle on the ground, instantly I knew what happened. so I parked it up and taxi'd it to the airport. So my question is how much oil can it lose before I cant drive it? I already had it booked in to go to XFT on mon so I just need to get it there. I dont know how much its leaked so far, im getting back later on tonight. It leaked about 100-200mls I reckon, over night before I left. Its only about a 15 min drive to XFT from where im staying. Also incase its leaked too much whos a tow truck mob that are alright to move my car (its on sl & ssl king springs, BF foon) that will go between gooseberry hills & XFT? There goes that ZF tune on a metal trans pan :( EDIT: Cheers Chris

Whats the opinion on the initial tune for the box? is the first go really that bad that it needs to go back to get touched up or is it more peoples preference and driving styles? im only asking because I was planning on getting the ZF tuned but its a 3800km round trip if I need it touched up......... but I really want it......

Ahhhh yes that's what I was after, makes perfect sense. I might give it another go as I really love the stock look and I quite liked the sound qual from the processor with the imprint etc. More perseverence with tuning this time. (I gave up as soon as my tweeter packed it in, about 2-3 weeks of occasional fiddling) off on another subject has any one used the latest alpine sound processor pxa-h800 with the rux-c800 controller? how does it compare to the h650 processor? 1 last question. Is the boosted aux input supposed to be as loud as the CD player? my car came with an input but its a fair bit quieter than the cd. How do I tell the difference between boosted and N/A aux input? (this is all refering to the stock icc)

Hi. Yeah my question was in regards to asking if other people have had success with using the std premo sound with the processor to get spl and sql close to an after market HU by itself. The difference in sound is huge between the two. I adjusted just about every option on the sound processor and had the gain way up on the amps and was getting pretty loud but I suspect it was clipping and it ended up f*****g one of my tweeters. with the aftermarket HU it gets loud without pushing gains over half and volume on HU about half. With the sound processor I had gains on 1 notch down from max and amps where very close to max aswell.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/XR6-Turbo-BA-BF-Billet-inlet-plenum-intercooler-cold-air-induction-setup-/290635260490?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ab36224a Feel free to purchase this for me

Hi Just putting it out there that beaurepairs have 20% off a set off dunlops or goodyears I got 4 x 245/40/18 Eagle F1 assymetric 2's for $1450. This may not be the best price but you can get it at ANY beaurepairs ie: im in the pilbara WA and EVERYTHING is dearer. If your in the country this seems to be the best deal going, it even outdoes the K-mart lowest price guaranteed of $380 each (doesnt include sales). They are also doing Dunlop sport maxx TT at the same price. I did alot of research and this is the best deal going.

Hi guys I'm just wondering if many people have fitted the mentioned sound processors to their cars with success getting good SPL? I have Alpine type x pro splits, type r splits, 2 type r 12" subs in a 4ft cubed box ported at 32hz, MRP-M1000 & F600 amps and although it was quite good sound qual the volume just wasnt there and through pushing all the gains quite high I ended up letting the smoke out of one of my type x tweeters :f*ckyou: That WE I changed to my pioneer DVD headunit and have since had reliable ear splitting good qual sound with out pushing the gear hard, the weakest link is now the car rattles and resonating. Also how much dyna mat do I need to do my car properly? it has a sunroof so not real keen on pulling the roof lining out to do the roof but open to peoples experience.

Ive often thought about the variable vein turbo idea too. My thoughts (which may quite well be wrong as its just my idea) are that you dont need the low down spool that a diesel needs, the big 4.0l spools the turbo up easily and it would probably need a controller of some sort. Its a question that I would like a definative answer on though from someone that actually knows.

I did all the front bushes bar the strut bushes with superpro last weekend and I love how it is now. Minimal downside to huge improvement. Cost me $400 for all bushes and ball joints did the majority of the work myself and paid $100 to get some of the bushes pressed in. Probably one of the best bang for buck mods ive done and will not have to worry about them for quite a while. Also the reduced tyre wear will pay for them over time.

The fronts wern't too bad to, I got them all out myself and got a few in but I had to get a couple bushes and ball joints pressed in for me. Now Im just after some reviews about the rear control arm bushes from super pro, are they a good upgrade for worn out standard bushes or should they be left to cars more focused on track work than daily drivers. Im definately doing control blade, diff and sway bar bushes from super pro, I just dont know wether to stick with the standard ones and replace as nescessary or replace all with super pro in the rear control arms? If more than a couple are f****d I'll probably do them all anyway.

Well, I got the front suspension done yesterday. Changed upper & lower control arm bushes, ball joints and sway bar bushes. All up with doing EVERY thing I could and paying a workshop to press in the bushes I couldn't, it cost $500 all up. I'm stoked with the results. Having 110ks on it the susp bushes where rooted. first thing I noticed was how smooth if feels over bumps and up driveways, under heavy braking the car feels very controlled and its no worse for ride comfort than the old worn bushes, its actually alot better. The only thing I could say is worse is that the road noise might be a bit louder, but that might just be me trying to pick on something. Overall a great upgrade and well worth the money spent, highy reccommend it to anyone. Now to do the rear. How do the superpro rear control arm bushes rate against OEM for noise, comfort and performance?

Hi Yeah luke I got your email about that I might give it a go this weekend, I'll let ya's know how I go. I've got an idea on how I can do it all with the tools ive got but it may or may not work. It'll definately be time consuming though. Creativity at its greatest I just wish I had the space to store a press because it'd get one delivered for less than the cost of labour to get the bushes and ball joints replaced. Last resort buy a small press and sell it straight after............

Thanks mate, exactly what I was after What about the strut to control arm bushes? good or bad for daily driver?

Yeah I dont doubt the ease of fitment and the quality of the airbox & battery kits from the leading companys but the price is something that is hard to get past the missus. There are few things that can actually be DIY'd now a days and a simple airbox and mounting the battery in the boot can be fairly cheap especially considering I already have 0 gauge wiring installed for the stereo, already pinched some good quality signs and enjoy getting out the back and having a go.

What about about a group but on the 4" intake pipe and fiter off plazma man? Let everybody make their own air box and do their own battery relocation? $1000 roughly is a bit step but with a bit of good ole fashion DIY it would be substantially cheaper. [url="https://www.plazmaman.com/shop/index.php?action=item&itemId=236"]https://www.plazmaman.com/shop/index.php?action=item&itemId=236[/url]

Hi Guys I've just received a front bush kit for my BF phoon (super pro) I'm just wondering if anyone else has heard of using the territory bush instead of the BA/BF version for the front lower inner control arm bush? I spoke to them and questioned it and they said "we supply them because they are much better". I searched and couldnt find any mention of this and its just got me wondering why? Part number is spf2636k. Also I've heard the super pro shock mount bush is quite ridgid and transfers alot of harshness through the steering wheel and body, does anyone have experience with them vs OEM parts? And what is a fair time for a workshop to charge to replace the bushes and ball joints if I remove the arms and take them to them? I was thinking 2-3 hours, @ $165 p/hr in the pilbara. Cheers Chris