knoles

+1 for group buy at the right price

^ Very nice! Did you get those numbers with a sealed box?

Ive pretty much done exactly what youve done in the rear shelf, 6.5" speakers in an mdf spacer and put both tweeters on the piece that goes over the sub hole. I'm having two dramas with this setup though. 1) grills hitting on speakers & 2) the spacers are getting rattled loose from the subs, I might have to try bolts and nuts. Can you throw up a pic of your custom grills BJC? My type r components speakers in the rear are starting to tear the surrounds from the baskets (glued both of them back up already) so might just replace with a 5x7 down the track. Not really keen on the running only fronts on the amp as ive done this before and didnt really like the sound.

Do you know of any 5x7s that will take 150w RMS?

http://s1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii628/knoles1/?action=view&current=photo1.jpg Heres a finished photo of the box. They look heaps better with the subs flush mounted IMO. She rattles the whole car fairly good. Has any one got 6.5" speakers in the rear shelf? I've had mine in for about 12 months now and yesterday as I was investigating rattles I noticed that the factory speaker grills are hitting on the speaker? Any one have a solution other than using a 5.25" speaker?

Pretty sure its vaseline, you know for lube to get it in the hole

Mine flashed when I cracked the sump and ran it out of oil

Whats a good line driver setup? Is it worth going with a 6ch or is a 2ch "bass driver" better off ie: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200550503500#ht_3157wt_1037

Yeah my box is ported @ 32hz. I just set the filter at about 80hz and turn gain to a point where im confident its safe. Not turning it up too high is the main concern as the speakers love the power they're getting at the moment and I reckon they'll last forever how they're set. I just reckon I should be able to get the volume im getting without turning everything up to its limits, the amp puts out 1365wrms to 2 alpine type r subs which have a power rating of 500wrms each

Hi Guys As per the title, what is the benefit of line drivers? I understand they increase the signal voltage but with gain controls on amps why? Im asking because on my stereo I have an alpine H/U with 4v pre outs and and alpine pdx m12 & f6 amps. The speaker amp is fine but the sub amp has a switch to change between 0-1v & 1-10v inputs and with it on 0-1v input it gets loud buts sounds sloppy and with it on the 1-10v input it sounds great but needs the gain set really high (above 3/4) as well as subs turned up fully on H/U and full bass boost on amp knob thingy-ma-bob (the remote mounted bass boost controller). would a line driver make it safer to get the volume from the subs I'm after without clipping? Or would it just make it start clipping at lower gain setting? How do I tell if it is clipping and what is a good method of setting gains on sub amps? Cheers Chris

Here is an in progress photo of it ATM. I got the next week off work so as long as the piss doesnt take over im going to carpet it and make a face plate for it that makes the subs flush mounted and maybe paint it to match car colour. As well as rebush my entire rear suspension :sungum: http://s1263.photobucket.com/albums/ii628/knoles1/?action=view&current=boot.jpg

Another prime example of a great product sold & serviced by retards. Sorry to hear about ya F6

Should add bearings (Big end & main), make sure your using good quality head bolts and replace the timing chain guides. I think its the guides that break and let the cams skip teeth?

Find a tuner with a GOOD rep and ask them what they recommend. They will know what works the best for them.

I've read somewhere that the FG F6 has forged pistons because the piston manufacturer recommends this at being over a certain HP per cylinder (IE: 70 HP per cylinder which equals about the FG F6 output). From what I've researched this is the only diff ini rods & pistons between FG F6 - FGXR6T - BF FPV & late model XR6T EDIT: I think the extra power output in the FG's comes from the more efficient head, cams and manifolds

Last weekend I made a 3.9ft^3 box tuned @ 32hz with 43.5 in^2 port area last weekend. it was made out of 18 MDF and its about as big as you can go. It could be an inch higher and maybe an inch deeper but that's it as it wouldnt fit in the hole (boot opening). Sounds good with 2 type r's running off a pdx m12 amp. Before this I had one of the new type R's in the alpine box running on this amp, it sounded great but didnt last long getting over twice its rated power Next thing im doing is trying 2 IDmax 12" subs in 1.5ft^3 sealed boxes I need more money :(

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/78450-roof-dvd-with-sunroof/ Here it is

Most people say it cant be done but I have seen someone on here that made a thread showing pics that he can do it. Try thread search for it.

I think he's talking about Dragins lair motor sport, they do alot of R&D on these motors and have got a lot of engine options available. http://www.dragonslairmotorsports.com/

To check if diff gears have been changed without updating the computer you could just drive next to a car at a certain speed and see if speedos read the same I think. Even if they've been changed im pretty sure wheel speed is read off the rear of the trans which would just throw out speedo and not much else? Im not certain though. EDIT: just read the post above about the diff gears and that proves that it may be the cause?

Its certainly not right though. If disconnecting the battery doesnt work I'd start by dropping the trans pan and having a look at whats in there and if there's no obvious extra parts or damage in there, doing a trans oil flush and going from there. They're supposedly sealed for life boxes but after 100 000 kms I know my trans oil was f*cked. EDIT: Did it have a full tank of fuel? My old BA XR6 N/A wouldnt shift one day under WOT and I was about ready to pull the box out until I refueled and it went away. Engine was starving for fuel and couldnt get to its shift point I think it was. that's with the old 4sd though, I dont know if the zf with the turbo motor would do the same? Just one of my experiences.

Talk to Nizpro, I emailed them the other day and they're prices are actually fairly competitive with the other major brands. Quite alot different to what is quoted on the website.

Hi guys I was just fiddling with my sunroof and thought "If I hold down the up & down button together for a while it might redo its calibration or something magical" All it did was stop the 1,2 & C buttons from working........ I assume it just needs them reset. The reason I was fiddling is that it closes too far down (about 20mm below roof line) and would only open about 20mm to the top. When I held down the two buttons it opened fully for the first time in ages which I was stoked about until I realised it no longer worked properly. The manual open & close buttons work still SO does anybody know how I can calibrate or fix my sunroof? Cheers EDIT: used the search function and found my answer! STOKED now

So I have a sunroof in the recall number, who do I see about it? Should I call my local ford dealer or the company that installed it (Prestige sunroofs). And will it fix the issue of it not closing properly? Cheers EDIT: how do I know if its already been done or not?

If I was to pay to have my car resprayed id go something completely different, I'd go matt or satin black. My vote on costs would be $8000+ if there was no panel work to be done and you wanted a descent job.