Slash

Damn! Should've called me for a coffee Brendan... Could've had a giggle!!

Fixed

Definitely give them a call. I know they're short staffed at the minute & have loads of work on, so email may not be answered straight away.

CAI makes zero difference, unless of course you are relocating it to the other side of the engine bay & going straight into the turbo. Reducing the intake piping length can be a benifit...

Mitch's dyno is also very accurate. Have watched countless cars roll off the dyno (including mine), figures are plugged into Moroso calculator, then the car runs pretty much exact figures as the calculator predicted.

Then they can overcharge him & credit my account for future visits?? Yeeooowwww!! Make sure you tell them Aiden

Whilst Ben's suggestion is a good one, the following workshop can give an un-biased run as they have nothing to do with tuning turbo falcons Aiden. Mitch will give a no bullsh*t printout & you will know exactly where you stand http://www.waperf.com/contact.html

Maybe someone on here has a car trailer you could use? I'd take it to a workshop over a driveway inspection. More access & can find things you normally wouldn't whilst up in the air.

Might be worth having a mechanical inspection done by a dealership or RAC mate? Fairly cheap ($150ish) & probably comparible to a carton or 2 of decent beer/bourbon. Just a thought & wish you all the best in finding out there's nothing majorly wrong with it

Dak Dak Boom?

Of course it will feel like it's more responsive, that's the whole idea of releasing them with a smaller frame turbo.

Not really, it needs to be sorted asap. If that cat keeps getting worse (which it will), it will get to a point where the cat/dump/rear housing will get so hot they will superheat the air going through the compressor housing so much that the cooler wont 'cool' it enough, resulting in detonation once it reaches the combustion chamber. Same thing happens when you try running a small/restrictive exhaust on a motor you're smashing lots of boost into. Will also lead to overboost issues if this happens as your internal gate wont be able to open due to excessive backpressure. Failed cats are extremely dangerous, especially when driving it in a manner that warrants new tyres every 4 weeks

Ping Tune! Where Ping is Powah

Lol @ Intune being the workshop you chose. Should have done your homework champ... All the best for the decision in 2 weeks

Beauty of mph is that it's very hard to muck up, unless you get off the throttle before the finish line or aren't holding the throttle down 100%. Pretty hard to do either consistently, so if your trap speeds are within a few mph each run this isn't happening. Just drop the exhaust before the cat & drive around like that. Will still sound better than half the falcodore sh*tboxes on the road!!

123mph suggests 340rwkw, and as I said that mph figure will be inflated due to wheelspin. Better sort that cat soon as it's really robbing you of power/speed/time.

You can run 11's with 118mph in a BA/F, but I wasn't eluding to the fact you weren't going to run 11's mate. Was just saying the mph was low for 400rwkw. Wheelspin actually nets a bigger trap speed, albeit a slower et. Has something to do with getting the weight of the car moving in a shorter distance, as well as increasing the distance travelled so to speak. Your wheels actually rotate extra revolutions when slightly or violently spinning don't forget... Not having a go, just curious as to why it is slower now than it was last time out even though power is higher. Blocked cat would explain it, but I would have thought Ernie would pick up on that whilst tuning & offer advice as to what your options were, especially since he knew you wanted to race it. That was why I was kind of leaning toward the cat not being melted/shagged.

Good luck trying to hollow out a metal substrate cat like that unless you have an industrial drill press... Aiden, mph is well down. Should be 130 easy with wheelspin

Why would his be tuned at 215kw when your slushbox 4 speed made 210kw? BTR's a an absolute sh*tter of a box & much less efficient than a zf.

Been down the strip yet? Need a mph figure to match the dyno readout...

Good luck with the screwdriver... A large metal stake & big hammer is required at a minimum.

Just gut your cat & run the body in current position to ward off unwanted attention for a cheap fix, or go for a full manta system with twin cats. Manta system will cost you ~$1000 changeover, cat mods will be ~$0 if you know what a spanner looks like

What were you looking at to realise it was a restriction? I think you'll find that the cat has started to melt, which will be evident by your mph tonight. I went through a few of them before switching to a twin cat design.

Lol at asking for your cash back after having them in the car for a few days. Only recourse you have is to take it back & have the injectors scaled correctly in your fuel map. If you want ID's you'll need to sell the DEKA's & put the needed cash toward ID's...

I went 130+ on radials with 409rwkw on a hub dyno, ~370rwkw on a roller dyno. You should match that with street tyres & the heavier ute, else start troubleshooting What cat are you running?