Slash

I agree, my GTR is tuned in Malaga & the Calais in Bibra Lake, yet I live in Rocko and have literally hundreds of workshops in between that are more than likely cheaper. I go where the results are... WA Perf & ASG are where it's at in the Jap/LSX markets.

Fair call, although both workshops mentioned have a fairly good rep on here so it isn't really going to help the cause. Same as speaking with the workshops wont, as each of them are going to say they are great, right? Haha Location & price will dictate for most I'd imagine.

Anyone can do a 200m powerskid with enough torque, it's the controlling/stopping it when wheel speed reaches 200+ & you go into a tank slap because of sh*t suspension setup or can't pull up because of undersized brakes. Car setup is equally important as driver skill when playing with high HP cars, especially on the street when there are loads of innocent people on the roads alongside you. I cringe every time I think of the number of XR6t's out there running 400rwhp+ and run around on china tyres, standard shocks with lowered springs, standard diameter rotors with standard taxi spec calipers & 'upgraded pads'. It is an accident waiting to happen as far too many inexperienced drivers find out. There should be something put in place that once a workshop carries out performance mods, there is also a responsibility to upgrade brakes/suspension to match. Dreaming I know, but it'd be nice!

Fanboy/Hater opinions are the biggest advertisement a small business can have. Hard not to take others opinions into account when their isn't a lot else to go off? Your above reply is also very contradictory Luke. "...talk too both shops (and customers) of both shops..." isn't really possible without "...Just dont get sucked into the Fanboi/Hater routine..." is it??

Monsta Torque have been around for ages & have tuned countless cars... Some good, some bad like anywhere. Rob tuned my F6 which ran a 10sec pass & held up for 2+ years of abuse & big boost on the standard engine. The choice will probably be made based on location of workshop as it's easier to go 5mins down the road for a touch-up that an hour away. Where does he live?

Additional HP, less traction. Can only end well

Tyres are the only thing between you & the road. A few hundred clams is f*ckall imo when it's your life you are putting a price on... The difference on those test videos is on a clean/flat/decent road surface. Try pushing your car hard through the hills on a set of KU31's, then a set of R1R's & see how your opinion differs afterward. Real world scenarios are greatly different to those test scenarios. It doesn't matter if it reads 100psi higher/lower. So long as you have a baseline (whatever Simon tuned it to) & can accurately work out the difference, you can always work out whether or not something is a miss. Boost guages are wank anyway... How often do you expect to look over & check boost pressure when you have your foot on the floor?

My car's fast enough to run with mirrors out & gold chains on Good luck!

Barbs track day. Cheap to hire track when you have 20 entrants & an awesome day out. I'll even run the GTR on street tyres to keep it fair

R1R's Invo & KU31 are not even in the same league. They're both decent, but more of a 'poor man's alternative' to the Toyo's imo.

Drop tyre pressures on rear slowly until you find the best traction point. Lowering them too much will make you lose more mph than necessary & therefore time. Not lowering enough will hinder your sixty foot times & thus make you lose time. I suggest starting at 30psi (hot) & dropping in 1psi increments. Take out all unnecessary crap from your car. I'm not saying rip out half your interior or drill speed holes in chassis for weight loss, just the unnecessary loose items. It's a safety thing, wont make you go any quicker. Leave your tailgate up when running. See so many knobheads dropping their tailgate thinking they'll go quicker, but they actually go backwards. Ford engineers spent more $$$/manhours/brainpower working out aerodynamics than Bazza in his XR8 over a few tinnies, so just run it as is. If you have a hardcover with a wing, take the wing off if chasing the absolute quickest mph & fastest et possible. You will gain 1 - 2mph from having less downforce up the top of the track. Wear a short sleeve top & take a jacket to throw on before each race. It's too muggy at night this time of year to wear a long sleeve shirt/jumper all night. When rolling into the box to do a skid pre-race, come forward approx half a metre after they give you the signal to stop. You want to be doing your skid on the dry patch of tarmac with wet tyres, not in the wet patch or else you will just flick water up in the guards which will in turn drop down onto your tyres whilst staging. Start in second gear for your skid & grab 3rd early (approx 4000rpm) if it will cop it. 3 seconds is plenty for street tyres, you only want to just see a little smoke start to rise off the tyres from the side of the car. DO NOT FORGET TO TURN TC OFF OR I WILL POINT & LAUGH AT YOU WITH THE OTHER 1000+ SPECTATORS Go down in performance auto mode first up. Once you get a baseline, try manual shifting at different rpm to find the 'sweet spot' & you will go faster each run as confidence builds. Don't be in a rush to stage. Take your time & get everything right before you go in casue the lights will start approx 1sec after you are both in full stage. You're paying to race, they're not paying you so don't let them be pushy carnts. Pop your bonnet as soon as you come onto the return road after your race. this will allow max airflow under there to cool off the top end. Leave bonnet up in pits until last second as cold top end + warm bottom end is optimum. There's heaps more, but I'm in the mood for beer drinking & too much info will probably hinder you anyway. Good luck

Take your skirt off & edit his posts anyway Luke. Mangina FTMFL *Awaits inevidable post edit*

BINGO!

Don't know, aint in the original pic on my computer...

It's perfect for wheels Arron, just not going to cut it for what I need which is 'quick & easy axle swaps at the drags'. Haven't had to do one yet, but I just put a full spool in it in place of the true-trac, so wont be far off

$1250 is a great price for install + fluids. There is more to it than just cracking a few bolts & changing out the boxes.

Lies, all lies.

Scared his car will break & he'll have no lift...

Be prepared for inbred hillbilly f*cks if you go to Wallistons.

Correct!

It's sexually frustrated white Arron. James can have rattle gun

Tits or boobies?

You have the original Nizpro cooler, or the revised thicker one with 3" piping? Check your cat & O2 sensors

Does it feel sluggish on hot/humid days, but decent on cool days?

Tell her to stay at home then Steve