Gussa

Hi Guys, Been pretty inactive for a while (mainly due to having a work car). Even though I don't drive the FG, I seem to still spend money on it! I am after some advice for selecting some new tires to fit the 50th Anniversary XR6T Ute Rims, and how to deal with the camber - I have only racked up 35,000 k's on the factories, but was told at the last service that they are scrubbing the insides and are no longer roadworthy. I took this to a local tire shop, who said all Ford's need to run a negative camber or else they are horrible to drive - Apparently mine looks like it is running a bit too negative and may need to get shims added to correct this... I have had an alignment done at about 15,000 (at a different tire place) and they said it was all correct (obviously not). My questions are: 1) If the negative camber is so common, is there some form of kit to solve this? Something adjustable? 2) What type of tires should I be looking at? Please keep in mind: - I only really do some spirited driving on occasion, so I am not after tires that handle amazingly, but only last 15,000. Something middle of the road would be perfect. - I have already scanned this thread for some suggestions. I asked the tire shop for "Nitto Invos" as these seemed to keep coming up - The tire shop said they could not get them in the right size. Pic attached for scrubbing reference.

Hi All, Last weekend I had difficulties with my clutch returning after being depressed - Felt very spongy making it difficult to reverse. Did some research which lead me to checking the clutch fluid and lubing the pedal assembly. Assembly was spot on, clutch fluid resembled something more like melted chocolate. Having bought the car brand new and adhering to all recommended service intervals with Ford I am a little disappointed! (Why am I not surprised) But moving on... Today I decided to change the fluid. (NULON Super DOT4). Also picked myself up a bleed kit consisting of tube and a 1 way valve (I intend to do brakes in the future). Using jacks and stands, finally found the bleed nipple (What a stupid position). Immediately noticed that the nipple and its shaft were slightly loose. As I have not done this before, figured it was normal. Connected hose, bleed nipple was tight but came undone half a turn. Ran through some new fluid. I then do up the bleed screw and my problems start. The hex assembly feels a lot looser and there is a large amount of fluid leaking out of the bottom of the bell housing. I'm still not sure if this is a leak from deeper in the assembly or just spillage from my clumsiness in removing the hose from the nipple. I left a rag on under the housing for a while and refilled the reservoir. Leak has very slowly stopped (last time I saw it) but the hex assembly is very loose. In my haste I also managed to overfill the reservoir and spill brake fluid into the engine bay... My questions; - Is there meant to be play in this hex assembly? - If not, can it be tightened without removing the gear box? - If so, will this cause a leak/problem? - At what service intervals is Ford supposed to change clutch fluid? The brake fluid looks brand new. Below is a photo from the net I butchered to help explain what I call the hex assembly.

I would recommend Pitlane performance mate.

Good work mate - I am sure this will be useful to someone!

Sounds very frustrating mate - Appreciate the post though. It's important that the story of dealings like this are told so that others don't follow the same path!

Define: Lost power? Dyno sheet?

Does anyone have any proof? Or is this one of those threads where everyone just states how it makes them 'feel'?

Looks good Joorsh, Did you get much of a sound change with those precise incisions?

Sounds like the shop stripped the hat otherwise they would be suggesting a new one! Locktite is a guilty solution I think.

I didnt get mine :(

Good work mate. As seen in the first post, I went the Jiffy Box option. Didn't like the idea of loom splicing. Installed them a while ago now and had no dramas. As for the constant supply, I investigated this (can be read on the first page of topic) but found it had the reverse effect (-30 to -15 Vac). My advice to you would be to try the Cig12VDC first, and see what readings you get, if they are consistent to what the car is tuned to, or if stock, around the 10+/- mark, then I would just leave it. If you get readings that are obviously incorrect, maybe look further into a different supply. Off memory I am pretty sure mine was tapered, have you tried it with a spanner to see if it will screw in further? Pretty sure mine went further than 3 threads.

:-(

Count me in mate.

Would a tune be required after install? Also, I was reading another thread where a member believed it caused increased lag - is this confirmed?

I think I will try T2's Front and back. DBA504S Fronts with Bendix DB1473 Ultimate Pads DBA505S Rear with Bendix DB1675 Ultimate Pads Two questions from watching the tutorial posted above; - What are the torque settings for stock FG turbo calipers front and rear? - Does anyone know roughly what size hose for the bleed screw for brake fluid? (planning to go to repco after work).