hjtrbo

farken aye

Lol, I'm beginning to understand your spending habits. I'll have to take classes in psychology to justify a 1000kW Barra to the other half... I don't think you will be good for my marriage.

Now that you've learnt all that and know what you're doing I could be your first customer at Puffs Transmissions when I snap something in mine. But I say no to being the R&D mule.

Went through similar recently. Refreshed the rear end. New oem bushes front and back and OEM rubber pads under the diff tube. New u bolts as 1 was stripped. Sent leaf springs off to an old school spring works place close to home and he rebuilt the spring pack with new separator pads and new leaf clamps to keep it tight and new centering dowels. Drove like brand new. Shocks will transform a ride, spend the extra on the Konis. As you've worked out going to low she'll scrape the shiny exhaust over all sorts of sh*te. Lower the front first then have it already booked at a spring place to reset and rebuild your rear leafs to match the front height. Morwell Spring Works is who went to. Like a walk back in time that workshop. Charges me $650 for the rebuild, reset and refit. Half the price of new king leafs. That money you saved out it towards your shocks. Also good chance your upper wishbone bushes, sway bar bushes and ball joints are on the way out. Superpro do good priced replacement kits.

That farker will ratchet itself closed too! Oh dear god! 🥶

Like the diesel guys in the US. Bloody need ladders to access their engines. Then you got bubba laying down on top of the head balls deep trying to get a wrench down to god knows where.

Bloody christ, that's a unit.

@Tom Tucker if you indeed wanted to come across to the GM side you'd indeed find alot resources and forums to get your tune on point. The falcon family unfortunately for some odd reason is mostly a closed shop. Haltech been awesome with real time tuning and a dyno that can do steady state you'd have any combo of falcon sorted pretty quick, then translate those changes back into the OEM pcm with pcmtec and tuner lock it up. Should start my own thung just to piss off the old guard.

NA SS is a worthy choice. Stall converter and trans tune makes a huge difference without even touching the engine.

Lol, I know that pain. On a good day I get 20L/100 on my LSA VF on E85. Round town she's 30+/100km. Bloody cams.

Awesome, haltech is definately relevant. Air fuel and spark is all the same. Just how you get there is the secret sauce. In your opinion no need to to port heads if choosing kelford 218b?

Ok. I hear your logic wrt to the cam pitting. Can cancel that order easy enough. Knowing the budget isn't there (yet) for the dyno time to dial in the cams, is there a consensus as to a mild aftermarket camshaft option that works ok enough with a slightly modified vvt map? Or if anyone would be willing to privately message a cam base tune map. Understand pineapples are required to be exchanged for a base map and cam recommendation via PM.

Yeah, its a massive jump to go to the next stage. I.e fuel pumps / Built ZF / driveshaft / bigger turbo etc. Lets see how close I can get it. Might try one of those South Australian dynos 😛 I'm not so sure about that, maybe you can convince me otherwise?! Here is where my logic is at... I got genuine OEM brand new for $370 each. (So what) I've got my tune set up happy those cams (+1 to OEM) I have to hire lots of dyno time to dial in aftermarket cams (+2 to OEM) Restricted budget (+3 to OEM) Can put in aftermarket cams and port heads later when ZF and driveline is done (+4 to OEM) OEM cams idle to smooth (+1 to Kelford or equiv.) OEM cams won't get me more power (+2 to Kelford or equiv.) Built bottom end, do the right thing and get aftermarket cams and ported heads (+3 to Kelford or equiv.) The budget pushes me to OEM cams. Already $9k down the hole the last few days, and that's doing a lot of the work myself. The builder is going to gap and assemble the rotating assembly (short block) and assemble the valve train. I'll screw the rest together myself and re-install into engine bay to save a few grand there. Also bought a F6 oil cooler as well.

Lucky bastard!

Couple of questions for the brains trust fellows now that the rebuild spec has changed... Full disclosure post rebuild mods list for my FG ute, anything that is new to the build is marked as such for your reference. GT3582 housing. Pulsar gen 2 CHRA (new), Process West stepped cooler and hard piping kit. IWG75 internal wastegate with 12psi spring. Flapper port mod. Stock air intake / crossover with airbox hole cut mod, K&N panel filter. 4" dump into 3.5" catless mid section into 3.5" x-Force rear section. OEM cams (new) on a fresh rebuilt head. ARP bolts in the right spots (new). OEM crank, ACL bearings (new), Nitto (CP) pistons and rods (new), Empire oil pump gears and backing plate (new), Empire HD timing chain and guide kit (new). Walbro 460 in tank, flex fuel sensor, OEM fuel reg, 1000cc injectors, OEM fuel supply lines and rails. Before the rebuild I was street tuned at 370rwkw(98) and 450rwkw(e85) based on virtual dyno results with no corrections on a perfect piece of road using the included BF ute settings for the drag coefficient, weight and tyre. Bugger all difference in output from smoothing 2 to smoothing 6 which indicates a good read. Still nothing beats and is as good as a real dyno, I get it. So here is what I'm proposing. I'd appreciate some sanity checks here: Can I squeeze her into the 500 club (E85)? Thinking the stock ZF wont survive? Do I need to stop the diff torque twisting? Driveshaft upgrade? Will see if I can it to boost up to 21psi in the mid then let it taper down to wherever it lands with WGDC still providing a little bit of overhead. A decent whack of E85 timing. Wideband reading a flat 0.82. Permaseal MLS head gasket still be ok? Cheers all, legends!

Based on a very basic initial inspection John suggested 0.5mm oversize might get me going. I guess once they get into further after boring it if it needs to go further I'll leave that decision in there capable hands. I like it how anyone in the future that reads this thread and wants to fix there oil leak can see how far it can end up going once you start to pull sh*t apart and realise it's farked.

F@ck you Puffwagon 😜. I knew this would happen. Just got back from powerhouse. Bores are out of round, and 5 thou over at the worst spot. Bearings are finished. Pistons to loose to re-use. Placed an order for Nitto rods and pistons.

edit: 92.23 low

Bores are measuring around 93.23 low to 92.245 high.

Goes in for measurement and inspection tomorrow, if all good then a ultra sonic clean and get the block decked. Then do what ever else the builder recommends to me. Definitely out of my comfort zone here. First engine tear down / build up cherry pop will always be nervous suppose.

ouch. Feel your pain brother. All the best with the diagnosis.

Thanks @Puffwagon. Machinist is going to inspect the block with me Monday morning. He wants it stripped down to nothing, will be a nice project over the weekend with a couple of cans. Hoping I can tell the Mrs the bores were 5 thou over so I had to get it bored out and new forged pistons and rods.

Ah, remerbered what I was going to ask now after your response this morning about gaskets... Lets pretend I'm not getting it built, I was hoping to use the gasket that comes in the permatec VRS kit. For 450rwkw was hoping that would be ok? I am upgrading the head studs to ARP. And I just called the engine machinist to organise decking my block. Had a quick go with the scotch brite, WD40 and machining stone. Fark that, my back will be toast by the end of the day.

I knew this would happen, don't get me thinking about it dude, coz I'll farken do it lol! Lol, yeah I'm a do first think later kind of guy. I'd be lonely if the mrs didn't adjust to live with it. It's a bloody disease I tell ya. Yeah, that's what will end up happening I reckon. Only the bellhousing bolts and engine mounts to go. Probably under an hours work. Will spend 4 hours just to clean the deck so its probably time well spent. Still had to raise the motor anyway to do oil pump gears.

20ra is about a thousands of an inch average roughness I'm reading from google. That's not very much lol. If I'm within 2 thou of an inch on the lathe with emery paper finishing I call it good. I've got a fine machining stone, I'll rip that over it nve its clean and see what it looks like. If there's heaps of peaks and valleys I'll get it machined. Fingers crossed I can pull magic out my arse.