hjtrbo

Thanks. Puffs is way better than mine. I can't afford what that lucky farker has done. I always thought the caltracs were WAY overpriced considering you can laser cut and weld sh*t up yourself pretty cheap. I prefer the ones that sit on top of the diff to keep them hidden. I plan to make my own. Will need to sit down and analyse the geometry.

I'll need a steady hand. So based on recent golf efforts I have a narrow window between my my 2nd and 7th Great Northern to be in my optimal period.

I have time and a carbide bur. Lets see if I can not nick the face when the bur grabs 🤭 Also have a small milling machine if that will make it easier?

Hey @bjc There sure has been a bit of work in the background. I pulled out the bottom end. That has seen better days so is off getting machined. Have ordered Nitto rods with CP Pistons +0.5mm, ACL bearings, full ARP. I got in touch with Pulsar and they are happy to take my 3582 CHRA back and credit it towards the GTX3584RS as I haven't taken it out of it's packing. There is a small restocking fee for them to accept back for a credit. Hoping to have that turn up shortly. Have being watching countless Barra build videos and have been talking with a GC. I've got the confidence to have a crack at the assembly myself. Powerhouse is doing all the machining and specialist assembly, but ring gaps and the glory work I'll do myself in the shed at home. Yes, have ordered the stock cams. I rarely turn the motor over past 6,000 so don't see the need for high flow cams. Keeping it simple there as I'm still learning to tune and don't want to many new variables to deal with and complicate things. Which is also the same reason why I'm leaving the fuel system alone for now. I've run some numbers and listened to comments and am definitely short on fuel. I'm wiring in a fuel pressure sensor so I'll load her up to as far as I can with stable pressure then when it starts to fall over I'll take 5% off the tune. Anyway, won't be getting out of the 400's with the fuel system so that will do for now. Just taking a guess I'll be at 21psi and 17deg of timing at 0.82 lambda and a little more overlap up top and end with something around the 460rwkw mark? Hoping to keep closed loop boost control so that may be a challenge as I'm not sure what the pulsar port job is like. After everything has settled in I'll save up for a Walbro 525, or a twin staged setup with a 450 and a 255 on a hobbs switch, FPR1200, IDX1300's (love good injector data) and a fuel rail. 4 bar base pressure, boost referenced. Once fuel is sorted the limiting factors will be the desire to keep the factory air intake cross over, 265 Michelins PS4's on the OEM snowflake 8" rims and in terms of things that will break still running the stock Ute drive train. Thanks for your comments. I'm doing everything you said pretty much lol.

I wanted to do this mod to mine. I never got around to doing it as I dropped the adapt enable to 50degrees which made a world of difference. But after all that I only very recently put the adapt enable back to stock and deleted my external cooler and went back to a new OEM heat exchanger. Time will tell if I'm an idiot. But I figured with regular servicing, making sure coolant is in top condition and replacing the heat exchanger every few years I should be fine. I'm also a big fan of things been kept at reasonably constant thermal temps as that is what they are designed to run at for clearances and sh*t. No ZF data for that last comment, but that's what our steam turbines like and its something that's ingrained into me here at work so I just carry that on at home. And yeah, if it does milkshake then I can justify the 6R80 build, call myself an idiot and re-install my external again lol.

That's what I tell the Mrs.

Lol, what a rip. Trade price on that is $253 incl. GST part number. 8R2Z-7A095-CD Which direction you going to go? Ford cooler or external? If external I have some ideas for you. 2CentsArseHoleOpinion, I don't have data but logic tells me to never release pressure from the coolant system like you did. It would be like striking every surface the coolant touches with a small hammer as the pressure is rapidly released and things collapse back to rest at atmospheric pressure. No facts to back that up, take it with a grain of salt. I work with industrial high pressure boilers so I have an appreciation of what potential damage can happen when pressure is rapidly decreased.

Both excellent choices. Which ever you can get the best deal on. Definately take the leaf packs out for a rebuild at a place that knows what they're doing, and replace all rubbers down the back. Only saying it twice because of how well it tightened up the rear. That said, in my case, my rear end was pretty flogged out to start with. It sucks parting with the cash straight up, but after a few weeks it's all forgotten and you get to have a sweet ride for many years.

farken aye

Lol, I'm beginning to understand your spending habits. I'll have to take classes in psychology to justify a 1000kW Barra to the other half... I don't think you will be good for my marriage.

Now that you've learnt all that and know what you're doing I could be your first customer at Puffs Transmissions when I snap something in mine. But I say no to being the R&D mule.

Went through similar recently. Refreshed the rear end. New oem bushes front and back and OEM rubber pads under the diff tube. New u bolts as 1 was stripped. Sent leaf springs off to an old school spring works place close to home and he rebuilt the spring pack with new separator pads and new leaf clamps to keep it tight and new centering dowels. Drove like brand new. Shocks will transform a ride, spend the extra on the Konis. As you've worked out going to low she'll scrape the shiny exhaust over all sorts of sh*te. Lower the front first then have it already booked at a spring place to reset and rebuild your rear leafs to match the front height. Morwell Spring Works is who went to. Like a walk back in time that workshop. Charges me $650 for the rebuild, reset and refit. Half the price of new king leafs. That money you saved out it towards your shocks. Also good chance your upper wishbone bushes, sway bar bushes and ball joints are on the way out. Superpro do good priced replacement kits.

That farker will ratchet itself closed too! Oh dear god! 🥶

Like the diesel guys in the US. Bloody need ladders to access their engines. Then you got bubba laying down on top of the head balls deep trying to get a wrench down to god knows where.

Bloody christ, that's a unit.

@Tom Tucker if you indeed wanted to come across to the GM side you'd indeed find alot resources and forums to get your tune on point. The falcon family unfortunately for some odd reason is mostly a closed shop. Haltech been awesome with real time tuning and a dyno that can do steady state you'd have any combo of falcon sorted pretty quick, then translate those changes back into the OEM pcm with pcmtec and tuner lock it up. Should start my own thung just to piss off the old guard.

NA SS is a worthy choice. Stall converter and trans tune makes a huge difference without even touching the engine.

Lol, I know that pain. On a good day I get 20L/100 on my LSA VF on E85. Round town she's 30+/100km. Bloody cams.

Awesome, haltech is definately relevant. Air fuel and spark is all the same. Just how you get there is the secret sauce. In your opinion no need to to port heads if choosing kelford 218b?

Ok. I hear your logic wrt to the cam pitting. Can cancel that order easy enough. Knowing the budget isn't there (yet) for the dyno time to dial in the cams, is there a consensus as to a mild aftermarket camshaft option that works ok enough with a slightly modified vvt map? Or if anyone would be willing to privately message a cam base tune map. Understand pineapples are required to be exchanged for a base map and cam recommendation via PM.

Yeah, its a massive jump to go to the next stage. I.e fuel pumps / Built ZF / driveshaft / bigger turbo etc. Lets see how close I can get it. Might try one of those South Australian dynos 😛 I'm not so sure about that, maybe you can convince me otherwise?! Here is where my logic is at... I got genuine OEM brand new for $370 each. (So what) I've got my tune set up happy those cams (+1 to OEM) I have to hire lots of dyno time to dial in aftermarket cams (+2 to OEM) Restricted budget (+3 to OEM) Can put in aftermarket cams and port heads later when ZF and driveline is done (+4 to OEM) OEM cams idle to smooth (+1 to Kelford or equiv.) OEM cams won't get me more power (+2 to Kelford or equiv.) Built bottom end, do the right thing and get aftermarket cams and ported heads (+3 to Kelford or equiv.) The budget pushes me to OEM cams. Already $9k down the hole the last few days, and that's doing a lot of the work myself. The builder is going to gap and assemble the rotating assembly (short block) and assemble the valve train. I'll screw the rest together myself and re-install into engine bay to save a few grand there. Also bought a F6 oil cooler as well.

Lucky bastard!

Couple of questions for the brains trust fellows now that the rebuild spec has changed... Full disclosure post rebuild mods list for my FG ute, anything that is new to the build is marked as such for your reference. GT3582 housing. Pulsar gen 2 CHRA (new), Process West stepped cooler and hard piping kit. IWG75 internal wastegate with 12psi spring. Flapper port mod. Stock air intake / crossover with airbox hole cut mod, K&N panel filter. 4" dump into 3.5" catless mid section into 3.5" x-Force rear section. OEM cams (new) on a fresh rebuilt head. ARP bolts in the right spots (new). OEM crank, ACL bearings (new), Nitto (CP) pistons and rods (new), Empire oil pump gears and backing plate (new), Empire HD timing chain and guide kit (new). Walbro 460 in tank, flex fuel sensor, OEM fuel reg, 1000cc injectors, OEM fuel supply lines and rails. Before the rebuild I was street tuned at 370rwkw(98) and 450rwkw(e85) based on virtual dyno results with no corrections on a perfect piece of road using the included BF ute settings for the drag coefficient, weight and tyre. Bugger all difference in output from smoothing 2 to smoothing 6 which indicates a good read. Still nothing beats and is as good as a real dyno, I get it. So here is what I'm proposing. I'd appreciate some sanity checks here: Can I squeeze her into the 500 club (E85)? Thinking the stock ZF wont survive? Do I need to stop the diff torque twisting? Driveshaft upgrade? Will see if I can it to boost up to 21psi in the mid then let it taper down to wherever it lands with WGDC still providing a little bit of overhead. A decent whack of E85 timing. Wideband reading a flat 0.82. Permaseal MLS head gasket still be ok? Cheers all, legends!

Based on a very basic initial inspection John suggested 0.5mm oversize might get me going. I guess once they get into further after boring it if it needs to go further I'll leave that decision in there capable hands. I like it how anyone in the future that reads this thread and wants to fix there oil leak can see how far it can end up going once you start to pull sh*t apart and realise it's farked.

F@ck you Puffwagon 😜. I knew this would happen. Just got back from powerhouse. Bores are out of round, and 5 thou over at the worst spot. Bearings are finished. Pistons to loose to re-use. Placed an order for Nitto rods and pistons.